sblake01

I guess there were different aftermarket units. This one appears to require an opening were it mates with the blower housing.

As far as the fuel pressure goes, electrical wouldn't effect it. Unregulated, that pump would put out somewnere in the vicinity of 100 psi. Manifold vacuum actually controls the fuel pressure through the fuel pressuse regulator so even if the voltage was slightly down it wouldn't make enough difference to matter. EDIT: I have no clue about Megasquirt. What I said assumes a stock fuel pressure regulator.

Glad you're happy with it. I've had the Freeze-12 charge on both of my cars for years now without any leaking problems. I'm sure that the lower high side pressure when compared to R12 helps there also. The570z and I weren't mad at each other. We were just expressing a high degree of passion for what we do......

There would have to be an opening there from which to draw the cooled air from the evaporator housing through the existing blower fan.

From what I understand, those units require that a cut out be made in the blower housing. When you remove the unit, you'd either have to cover the hole in the housing or replace the housing with one that hasn't been cut out.

I use a vacuum gun but that's the 'old school' method you describe and it works too.

I believe that the condensor is simply for radio noise supression and wouldn't have any effect on how the car runs. What condition is you advance mechanism in? Does it move freely?

But, Carl, they say that car was built "@ Barry's Speed Shop SRRC at a cost of over $100,000!" What's so impressive about it selling for "between $40K and $60K'?

I once had a similar problem with my 78 that I solved by replacing the EFI main relay. It's under the hood on and is a single relay on my 78 but on a 77 and earlier it's above the ECU on the drivers side kick panel. And it's a wide relay that's like two relays in one where one side is the fuel pump relay and the other side is the EFI main relay.

I'm assuming that it does eventually start. How long does it take?

Well, it's even more than that. The wrong description is just that, wrong. An AFM meters air flow whille a MAF sensor does just that, senses, no metering, hence the difference in terms. Other functions take place elsewhere as per the differences in the functions of the less sophisticated system vs. the more sophisticated system. Analog vs. digital, if you will, for the sake of comparison. So the 'misunderstanding or misidentified parts' actually takes place the moment you refer to that part by the wrong name.

I used to use my Z as a daily until it got stolen in 2001. It's still quite capable of being a daily driver. I've just made other arrangemants since then. I have used a 89 Toyota Celica for about a year, a 91 Nissan NX1600 for about a year, and the 810 since 2003.

Yeah but the one in question has no hot wire or any of that type of later technology so the terms are not really interchangable. Nissan referred to it as an Air Flow Meter and continued to do so througout the entire run of the L series engines. Refering to it as a MAF is no more accurate than referring to the ECU as a PCM.

Well, that's very different. Never mind:) (I assumed you meant the under hood heater hoses)

I wish I knew more. I could quote the ratios from the old Datsun Comp. catalogs if that would help but I don't see how it would.

I've seen L engines with generic heater hose so I know it works. I believe it's 5/8".

I've seen those listed in the early Dastun Comp catalogs. I remember that they were listed in three ratio options. I don't recall any mention of the shift pattern, however.

Don't know what it is but it's not a 'dog leg'. The dog leg was a later 5 speed used in the US on 4 cyl cars in the late 70s/early 80s. They have reverse where we're used to having first gear. I'm talking US market trannies. If there is a non US 5 speed with that shift pattern I'm not familiar with it.

Welcome, Eli. I didn't know what to make of your intro at first. You have to read it all. And the more I read, the more I realized what you were saying. The last three words sum it up. You'll find lots of help here. For your Z and sometimes even for yourself directly or indirectly.

The original wheels for a BPE would be stock steel wheels w/hubcaps as shown in the attachment in post #7. The four spoke aluminum alloys, like I have on my 78, were option wheels for any 260Z/280Z. They're shown in Carl's link. Some people mistakedly refer to them as 'Black Pearl' wheels.

It's doesn't have the dual mirrors. That must have been changed also when it was painted. The SAP consists of the stripes, the louvers and the dual mirrors.

Oh, I don't know...if that's the intent, cars might not be the way to go in this day and age.

Looks pretty nice. It doesn't appear to have the SAP. I'd lose the true-spokes and either go with the hubcaps that were standard or the wheels that are on my 78 which were optional. I'll defer to Carl Beck on the market value since I personally don't think they're worth any more than any other 78 280Z, especially w/o the SAP. JMO

Definately a member of the 280z Hall of Fame..(which mine is not)

Bad person or not, bottom line, adding your take to this plus what has already been said, I'd say that 260zCaliCar is right. I've tried to get in touch with Norm a couple of times over the past few months with no luck.