sblake01

Bob, nothing to worry about taking sides on. Tarmac seems to be the only one that 'went there'. What gets me is that with very few exceptions, no one has any intention of buying any of the cars that get posted here and then 'bashed' (which I really don't see here in this case). Let it ride. What Ron said was misunderstood, that's all. I doesn't require a debate. After all, the question was simply "Do we know whos car this is?"

Nissan refers to that as the anti-stall dashpot. The way it effects the throttle is by dampening the last 1/2" or so of throttle when you quickly release the gas pedal in neutral. That basically keeps the throttle chamber from 'slamming shut'. That's the theory anyway. I've seen many auto-manual conversions without them that seem to work without a problem.

Take you old flywheel out and measure it or take it with you an compare it. You're going to take out anyway, right?

If that's all you get from that you need to re read it. I doubt that RC is at all concerned with parking his car at a dealership.

I took a pic of that car in front of the DHM a couple of months ago:

As I recall the Sport Fury I had did but the Duster, not so much.

They (whoever 'they' are) also says California is known for the rays and the gays.......

The reason I mentioned the Carter pump is that I had no problems when I used their pumps on American cars that I owned in the past. I've never used one on a Datsun nor do I have any experience with the Delphi pump. The damper should be fine. I've never had a problem with the fuel damper on my cars and only know of one case where someone I know had a problem with one.

Thanks.

See what you've gotten yourself into, Arne? But while you're into it, could you add a pin for sblake01 in San Bernardino, CA?

Welcome from antoher Steve! I had a couple of Mopars 'back in the day'. A '70 Duster 340 6-pack and a '64 Plymouth Sport Fury 426 wedge. Fun cars but as I recall they were even expensive to work on back then. I think you'll enjoy this site and maybe even get some help from the guys in finding that 240Z.

Sounded to me like he solved the fume problem. Let us know how it turns out after they run the tests. I'm guessing the source of the low mpg is also a product of your previous owners friends' tinkering.

Who sells it? Don't see it on the O'Reilly site. I've not heard of a Delphi fuel pump for a Datsun. I'd be tempted to try the Carter inline fuel pump that Checker/Shucks/Kragen/Murrays/O'Reilly (depending on where you are) sells. Part number P70304. It costs about $30 less than the Delphi.

I was just saying that I was not sure that you're setup would be the same as the rest of the cars in this thread. Each year of E12-80 dist. seem to be a bit different. I discovered that a few years back and Carl and Bruce's statements early give more credence to that. The 79 dist. seems to work best with the vacuum source being the manifold pulling though a vacuum delay valve. That has been my experience. Now that may or may not apply to carbureated cars but Arne stated that the advance came on too quick when it's from the manifold rather that the ported vacuum. Placing a delay valve in that line puts the advance right in spec and still pulls enough at idle to be smooth. I don't know how or if that would differ with carbs since my experience is with EFI but I would think that the effect would be the same.

Why not? I always seem to end up there during the worst part of the summer anyway.

I've owned two in the past and would like to own one again but it's not an obsession. Far from that and it will likely never happen. Too many other things precede it on my list of things I'd like to have.

Me too but at this stage of the game it will have to take it's rightful place on the long list of thing I'd like to have. A paid off mortgage (3 more years), a retired wife (also 3 more years) ,........a series one would probably come in about 12th or 13th on the list.

Different scenario. The throttle valve switch wouldn't be causing problems with the distibutor advance.

Granbury is near to Dallas IIRC. That's puts you about 300 miles from my sister's house. Texas is huge. The only direction I could 300 miles from home and still be in the same state is north. She's comming out here this summer but we might be visiting her in 2010.

Glad to help. That's an improtant piece on these engines. It affects the fuel mixture at idle, off idle, and wide open throttle for NT cars and idle and off idle on turbo cars.

I don't know, the topic of Texas is a bit more intersting to me. My sister lives in Houston. She doesn't know how I can stand to live in California and I don't know how she can stand to live in Texas. She talks about the cost of stuff here and I talk about the weather there. We both love to visit each others' state but can't wait to get back home from the visit. I guess it's all in what your're used to. Oh, and she's not the family member with connections with the California DMV:) Now, back to the topic. I've searched for my former 70 240Z off and on for several years now and it seems to have fallen off the face of the earth. Not so much as a trace shows up through the DMV records. Having a connection didn't even help.

Is that a 25 degree initial advance? Idling @ 700-800 rpm with the line from the vacuum pot blocked? If so, either something is stuck insided the distributor or it's not clocked right with the oil pump. Does the breaker plate move. Even 20 degrees is a lot. The service manual calls for 10 BTDC. That would definately cause the issue you speak of and maybe others.

Secede?

John, that's not the same part as the part being discussed as it wouldn't be even remotely sturdy enough to mount a sway bar.

Kurt, your car is quite the hybrid compared to the cars in this thread. I still contend that full manifold vacuum with a vacuum delay valve is the way to go for a 79 E12-80 dist., everything else being stock, which your isn't. That's the way the distributor was originally set up. I'm specifically referring to a 79 distributor on an L24 with SU's. Being connected to the ported vacuum is likely not to produce enough to idle smoothly. I don't think the SU's would compansate for that as the EFI would. As Bruce said the electronic distributors differed though the years.