sblake01

It has been done but does require some machine work and fabrication. You can use a 5W71C transmission with a 280z-280zx bellhousing to fit the transmission to your L24. It would require some grinding on the bellhousing to clear the front gears on the input and counter shafts and swapping the front counter shaft bearings. Also you'd need to put the bellhousing in a mill and drill out the 5th/reverse shift rod hole to 16mm from 14mm. You'd need to make a trans mount and a longer driveshaft since this trans is 2-3 inches shorter.

3N71B's can't be push started either. Neither can (L)N471B's. They have no rear fluid pump to spin the trans once it gets rolling and attempting to do so can actually damage the trans or other drive train components.

I'd stick with one problem at a time........

This thread talks about the intelock override switch. I would think that if you removed the wires on the emergency switch and jumpered them, the car should start if everything else is okay. Unplug the switch, see which pairs of pins have continuity when the switch is pressed and jumper the corresponding pairs of wires togehter on the plug. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31316

It does for me. Just click on the open or save tab and it should download. It's a little over 43MB.

Z31 non turbo.

Here's a link to the 260Z FSM. It shows the starter interlock system in the Body Electircal section and has the diagrams and troubleshooting for that system. http://www.xenons30.com/files/FSM/1974%20260z%20FSM.zip

The above mentioned 'esprist' is a member here. sort of. He was the guy who came on basically to badmouth Pierre. I'd steer clear of him. He just might belong in the 'bad ebayer' thread. I won't buy from him.

You can make your own simple fuel pressure guage with a 5/8" brass T, a couple of hose barbs and a gauge from a hardware store. Under 20 bucks. I did them for under 10 but I worked at a hardware store (employee discount).

From my V8 musclecar experience, what you said would be the direction I'd go in. Secondary springs or a vacuum delay valve if they are vacuum secondaries would help with that problem. I just don't know if that applies to a Holley on a L engine.

When I said 'right tool' I based that on my skills, my situation, etc. Of course, the definition will vary from person to person. I think that the subject has been sufficiently hamered, pressed, pulled, etc.

Can't he just use the one that's already in his car?

If I'm trying to save the boot then I use the press type tool. Like I said, the right tool for the right job. Hammer away if you must.

Try this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32488

I have a pickle fork attachment that goes on my air hammer. Effortless and damage free. Why use a hammer when there are so many easily damaged and hard to find parts under involved? Not to mention the extra cost involved when you break something that wouldn't get broken if you used the right tool(s) in the first place? "Cheap" can suddenly become expensive.

The ZX obvioulsy uses different color wires than the 280Z. As long as they match up with the corresponding positions on the plug it will work.

Click on this link and you'll have a pdf copy of the 1980 Factory Service Manual which in many respects is better than a hard copy. http://www.xenons130.com/files/1980%20280zx%20FSM.zip

That's the 're-issue' steering wheel as Alan said. I'm sure that it wouldn't be worth as much as a genuine early one.

Just splice together the W/R, the B/Y, the B/W, and the L/R to the corresponding wires in the car and disregard the B/L wire on the connector, but do cap that wire because it would be live when the key in on.

The 78 only has four wires on the plug. The reason the 75-77 has five wires is because those years had the fuel pump contacts in the air flow meter and the 5th wire appears to feed that circuit. The 5th wire is used to feed power to the rear wiper on the ZX. Those circuits aren't on a 78.

I see in your profile that your car is a 78 280Z. It helps to post that info when you're looking for help. Having a hardcopy of the FSM is nice, and I do have one, but the pdf version is better in that you can look at the pages you need and even print them out if necessary and you don't end up wearing out/ruining your 31 year old manual. Where in California are you located?

From what I understand, based on my limited experience cutting keys at Ace Hardware, a locksmith would need to have the skills to reconfigure the lock but he'd also have to have the correct pins or wafers needed to match up with an existing key in order to make it work.

There are also test procecures for them in the EF (Engine fuel) section of the FSM.

Pretty sure they're interchangable. The early ones, 75-76, didn't have a lid on the consle box.

You're actually lucky. I had the same thing happen on a Datsun I once owned but the spring got behind the impeller and punched holes in the back of the timing cover.