sblake01

That's it. Shows how much I know. I haven't done too much work with ZX EFI systems. Can't understand why you had to go to the ref if everything is there. Did your car fail the test at the smog station?

I fully agree, John. Even on the east coast that seems like a high price for the car pictured.

^^^^Like Geezer said, Thrush deacals but no Thrush mufflers!

I don't have pictures but maybe these scans will help:

My 78 has the BCDD on the throttle body as does my 810. The change didn't come until the 82 model year. As far as I know, after the change there was no BCDD. It's function was taken over by the oxygen and cylinder head temp sensors that the earlier system didn't have. Where is it that they are giving you such a hard time for a smog check. Where I go, they check the timing, look for missing components, check the evap system and put the sniffer in the tailpipe.......I've never had any problems on the six tests mine has taken since I've owned it. Nor the 4 with the 810.

I agree. At 98K mi, my 78 still has good bushings and interior.

But his car doesn't run and I think the coil is the least of his worries as the original poster hasn't answered yet. As far at the other, I could really get off topic here with discussions of musical form, lyrics and their meaningss, etc. since that sort of thing is also one of my major interests but I'm not sure the rest would be able to take it.

The coil would still produce spark even if the advance is stuck. Side note: It just dawned on me where that quote in you signature comes from. Isn't the lyric "If He Really Thinks We're the Devil, Then Let's Send 'em to Hell"?

That might not be advisable with electronic ignition.

Yep, hence the parentheses around the word.

If the ignition coil is 'properly' connected and it's not giving off spark then the coil is defective.

I could have been a lot more help to you if you had left the EFI system in the car. I've become fairly adept with the circuitry of that system. This probably doesn't apply much since you've removed the original wiring harness but only the 78-83 EFI systems use the oil pressure switch in the fuel pump circuit. The 75-77 used contacts in the AFM to actuate the fuel pump. You'll have to design your own circuit for that but it sounds like that is what you're doing.

There are different types of rear window louvers and I',m sure that mine would use different hardware than yours but I can tell you that the side window louvers just stick on to the trim with double sided trim tape. I personally don't care for those...had a set given to me and I gave them to someone else.

That was covered in his other thread. (There were two)

Cool. That's why I posed it as a question as it hadn't been mentioned.

Are you attempting to use the stock EFI fuel pump with your carbs? If so, it won't work. It puts out way too much fuel pressure for a carb system.

From an eariler thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=273557&postcount=4

Cool! I didn't know you parked on the left of the street up there. Do you drive to the left in B.C. also?

I thought he was talking about a ballast resistor.

I would think it would be the same .0039-.0043" that the manual states. If you're running an E12-80 distributor you don't need a resistor as an electronic ignition uses the full 12 volts.

If you do that, you will likely end up with a mess. I would do a visual inspection under the dash where the heater vavle, hoses, etc. are. It might just be one of the small connecting hoses. My heater valve developed a leak which soaked the carpets and they had to be pulled and replaced along with thouroughly drying my still 'rust free' floor pans. I also replace the heater core while I was in there but the valve was where the leak was. A heater valve for a 280Z was tough to find in 2002 so it's probably even tougher now. There are two types. One for cars with factory ac and one for cars without and they're not interchangable.

Yeah, I saw that too but wasn't going to comment. I guess if you throw enough parts at it........

What's your point? Read the thread again.

Pretty basic stuff.......

Directly from the BBB Reliability Report for Datsun Parts: