sblake01

The only picture I could find of it was this one with my 73 620 in the carport in front of my 1600 Roadster. I did find another one but the truck was obscured by a Pinto(!) I once owned.

Had one exactly like it. A 1973 which was the only 620 with an L16. Mine was a 4 speed. I think that was the only trans available in 73. Five speeds, automatics, L18s and L20Bs came later. Good running truck. Drove it for years back in the 70s with no major problems that I can recall and sold it for what I paid for it ($1500). By today's standards, if that one runs at all, it's a great deal. (Looking for a picture of the one I owned)......

Test the sensor before you go out and buy one, it could just be a bad connection. The test procedure is in the manual that I linked. The EFI components are somewhat pricey. Have you cleaned all of your electrical connections? Especially the fuel injection related ones? I don't like to throw parts at a problem. Buying new parts to replace functioning part gets rather costly.

The water temperature sensor allows the mixture to be richer when the engine is cold and gradually leans it to normal as the engine warms up. It has to be plugged in for the car to run but if the sensor is bad the mixture won't be right when the car warms up. There's a little more to it but that's the basics. Do you have a factory service manual? There's a pretty good trouble shooting section in the Engine Fuel section. If you don't have one you can download one at http://www.xenons30.com/files/FSM/1975%20Datsun%20280z%20FSM.pdf.

You'll need all of the stuff in the circles. The vacuum bottle and solenoids are for the air conditioning system, and even though one of the fusible links is tied to the efi relay, it's also tied to the ignition relay and the others are for the ignition switch, headlights, and alternator.

I was under the impression that they were optional in any market rather that 'standard' other than on the above mentioned cars.

Wow, nearly a year and a half later! I'm still here. For question 1, the electrical piece on the back of your ignition switch is likely bad. On question 2, check the fuel pressure. If it drops when you try to rev it, there could be a problem still with some kind of clog in the fuel system. How does that glass fuel filter look after driving the car? Did you change the fuel filter under the hood? By the way, those glass fuel filters are generally made for carbureated cars and won't withstand the fuel pressure of a fuel injected system. If the fuel pressure doesn't drop when you try to rev it, I'd check the water temperature sensor.

Several possibilities. Leaking injector(s), leaking cold start valve, bad thermotime switch, bad water temperature sensor, etc. There's no a single answer based on the information you gave. You should look through the troubleshooting section in the Engine Fuel section of the factory service manual. If you don't already have one, here's a link. http://www.xenons30.com/files/FSM/77_datsun_280z.pdf.gz

William Sydney Porter's story 'The Gift of the Magi' comes to mind. Does anyone remember that one?

I remember now. The member I referred to in the previous post is Stephen Cox. His member name on this site is sopwith21. Haven't seen him on the site for a few months. His signature reads: From the Sopwith Motorsports Website:

No problem. coolc has two posts on this site and both of them seem to be telling me how to work on cars, use tools, etc. How did I ever get along for the past 45+ years of working on cars without him?

Is that directed to me? If so, I wasn't suggesting prying on the pads. The pads are already out at the point I use that tool.

I use an old wood chisel with a piece of rubber on it to prevent damage to the rotor and work it back and forth until the piston is pushed in but I'm sure there's an actual tool available for that.

The calipers don't have to be removed.

What class do you compete in?

We have (had) a member who did some commentating for one of the lower NASCAR series events on SPEED some time ago. I can't think of his name, however.

A mirror image of a mirror.........kind of mind boggling if you think about it.

Rock on!

I also fell for it a few times in the past, but no more!

The 76 280Z volt/fuel gauge has the same font as the 240Z amp/fuel gauge. I've seen that modification in quite a few cars.

From what I understand, if you use the 77-78 shifter on any of the 5 speeds, you don't have to cut anything except in the earliest cars.

I should have been clearer. The part you are referring to in the picture (55) is the spring seat. The other part (58) is the insulator. 57 is the spacer.

The spring seat? You'll need those regardless of what struts you use. As far as Teixeira goes, at least the Red Sox have a first baseman. What are we going to do? We gave up Kotchman to get Teixeira.

You want a picture of the scar?

Shouldn't make any difference which alternator as long as it was wired properly the ammeter should work. The wiring to the gauge is a fairly simple plug in. It's likely the gauge that's at fault. I'd swap it out for the other one. Not too hard to do (speaking from experience changing gauges in a 280z).