sblake01

When I've had to remove mine, they've come out. On another car I worked on with a stubborn plug, being an HVAC/MVAC tech, I put a blow gun on the end of one of the hoses on my charging manifold, cooled the plug with a couple blasts of R134a and spun it right out.

I don't know, it's nice but how do you value such a custom one off type Z? Notice that the auction closed with the car $3400 under the BIN without meeting the reserve.

Yes on the tranny. Use the clutch parts and shifter from your 77. The power windows and door locks would take some fabrication.

Bosch makes quality parts IMO. I use their stuff that is equivalent to the OEM JECS parts in my EFI cars and have had no problems. If fact, in my experience, they out last and out perform the OEM parts. Also, I believe Kyosan was one of the manufacturers that made the original Datsun mechanical fuel pumps. I have the stock fuel pump from my 320 and that's the name embossed on it-Kyosan Denki Co., LTD.

I hope he's already done whatever he needed to. The original poster hasn't posted in this thread in over a year and a half.

If you have self service junkyards in TN that's where I'd go to look for them. Those wheels are pretty plentiful at least in California and reallly nothing special. I gave away a set of them a couple years ago for the cost of shipping to one of the members on this site. You should be looking for the wheels I have on my 78 if you want factory alloys on your black pearl. Harder to find but technically speaking they would be the 'correct' wheels for your car. Contributed by: Andrew Streckfuss, IZCC #6438

Have you downloaded the factory service manual from the link I posted in your other thread? You really need it based on the questions you ask. There are troubleshooting procedures for everything on the car in it.

The reason you don't put the negative cable on the dead battery is because hydrogen gas, which forms as a battery discharges and loses its fluid is flammable, and a spark from the battery cables could, set it off. It's only a slight risk but it's more of a risk if the battery has been sitting for a long time with little or no air circulation.

I've used Seafoam in the past though I now use a different product to decarbon an engine and have never known either of them to cause leaks. As suggested above, however, I'd change the oil soon after the treatment.

Not sure I understand what you're asking. Clutch/gas timing is important when driving any standard trans. All three of my Datsuns shift smoothly but you can stall them if you don't get it quite right. Are you saying that your clutch slips?

The 78 AFM won't work on a 75-77. For 78 and on the fuel pump contact circuit was eliminated. As far as the sensor on the therm. housing that Rob mentioned, that's actually the water temperature sensor but his advice on it should be followed. The cylinder head temperature sensor doesn't exist on the 280Z.

Oh, the magnet!:stupid: The part that sits under the stator.

The reluctor? I can get those.

Is this what you're looking for? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/79-84-Nissan-280Z-810-Maxima-Magnetic-Pickup_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1163Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a0Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem250326401629QQitemZ250326401629QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I believe that's from a 720 pickup, 80-81, before the name change to Nissan.

Doubtful that the 'computer' is the problem. It's not really a computer per se like in a modern car but just a control unit. Regardless of what you hear they rarely fail unless they've been abused. Sounds like you need to familiarize yourself with the 'Engine Fuel' section of the Factory Service Manual. That way you'll understand a little more about the car and ask more informed questions which will lead to better answers. You can find a copy of it here: http://www.xenons30.com/files/FSM/76_datsun_280z.zip

This may or may not be what you're experiencing but a couple of years ago I was chasing down a squeal like that in my 810 and it turned out to be a very small leak in the AC vacuum bottle. Replaced the bottle and the sound has been gone ever since.

So you gave up on the EFI?

Don't forget the 84 Maxima. The 78-83 (84 if you include the Maxima) are gear reduction and actually do the job better in that they spin faster.

Nobody really wants to drain the tank, pull it, and have it proffesionslly cleaned, or replace it, but I'm afraid it's the only way to solve the problems caused by sitting for long periods of time with old gasoline in it. I went through the same thing back in 1997 when I bought my 78. It had sat for four years. Ironically, when I bought my 810, it had also sat for nearly 4 years but it didn't have the prolblem because the previous owner started it once a week and drove it around the block once a month.

Great...just what this thread needed.

The screen is in the pump inlet. The tank is baffled. Larger particles may not come out when you drain it.

Mike did give you a 'heads up' didn't he? Air this out elsewhere.

Those wires appear to be the ones that would connect to the pickup coil on the stock distributor. Not sure if those would affect your tach. I also notice that the coil has been changed. That could be the cause of the tach problem. In the stock setup there's a blue wire from the - side of the coil and a black/white tracer wire from the + side of the coil. Those two wires are for the tach circuit. Assuming that nothing else has been changed, I'd locate those wires and connect them accordingly. If they're already connected then I'd assume that the tach itself is bad. That is, again, assuming that nothing esle in the tachometer circuit has been cut/changed/removed, etc. What distributor is the one that's presently in your car?

You'd have to remove the fuel pump to see the inlet screeen. Dropping fuel pressure as you accelerate indicates either a blockage in the lines (likely) or tank or a problem with the pressure regulator or pump (doubtful).