sblake01

Stranger things have happened. Either that or you or the other owner are either mistaken or suffer from CRS because Nissan, you, and he seem to be the only ones that had access to the car.

You don't need a performance clutch unless you simply just want one. Nothing wrong with the stock clutch. I have stock factory clutches in both my 78 280Z and my 79 810. The Z's clutch has been in it for 8 years and the 810's for about 2 yrs. They both work fine. Like I said, if you're talking about the spacer that goes between the crankshaft and the flywheel, first of all, I'm not sure the flywheel would fit properly with it in place. If it did fit over the spacer, I doubt if it would cause the problem because it could be adjusted to compensate. I simply think you need to properly adjust the pedal free play because it sounds like you clutch isn't completely disengaging. The more you drive it in that condition, the more you burn up the disc. That would be true even if it was a performance clutch.

And after a couple of bad personal experiences (!) I'd say use a rubber hammer and be very careful if you use any type of pry bar in the process.

If you left the flexplate spacer on the end of the crankshaft it would essentially push the flywheel back against the clutch the thickness of the spacer. That would cause te symptoms you've described. You might be able to adjust the pedal to the point where the clutch will engage fully but the best bet would be to pull the trans and remove the spacer. You might try that adjustment anyway since you're not sure if you left the spacer in there or not. It might just need the adjustment.

I doubt if the exhaust leak is heating up the fuel rail since the rail is fairly far from the exhaust. Have you adjusted the idle screw atop the throttle body? Do you have any vacuum leaks? Have you checked the condition and adjustment of the throttle valve switch?

Does your car have factory (4 speed fan control with the logo 'AC' as far left position on the panel) or non factory air (3 speed fan control with the word 'OFF' as the far left position on the panel). There are two heater control valves depending on which system. Both are somewhat difficult to find. For the factory system I'd try the Nissan part numbers for the rec/drier and the exp. valve. For the non factory system you can use the generic type rec/drier but you'd have to know which evaporator it has to know which exp. valve you'd need.

IIRC, only 75s have that, maybe 76s, but I've never seen one on a 77-78. What's your timing set at?

Be sure you haven't switched the connectors between the Thermotime switch and the temperature sensor. I've seen people do that before. At the connection above the manifold, the thermotime switch wires connect to the green wires and the temp sensor wires connect to the black wires. Originally there was a red indicator on both sides of the thermotime connection and none on the temp sensor connection. They're usually long gone after 30+ years.

The acronym JAHFA actually stands for "Japan Automotive Hall Of Fame". Here's the complete list of 2008 inductees: Yutaka Katayama: Influential President of Datsun in America Born in 1909, Katayama graduated from Keio University and joined Nissan in 1935. He was responsible for the first Tokyo Show in 1954, and founded Nissan’s operations in America. His management style allowed the Datsun brand to flourish in the States until his return to Japan in 1977. He was inducted into the AHF in 1998. Jiro Tanaka: Respected Prince engineer Tanaka was born in Tokyo in 1917. He graduated from Tokyo Kogyo University in 1939 and joined the Tachikawa Aircraft Co. soon after. Following the war, after the reorganization of various firms, he became a valued employee at Prince, moving up through the ranks to executive level. He became VP of Nissan Diesel in 1983, retiring six years later. Seiichi Inagawa: The man behind the first Suzuki Kei-car Born in 1925, Inagawa joined Suzuki after the war, rising to an executive of the company in 1973. He has received numerous awards, including a medal from the Emperor in 1997. Katsumi Kageyama: Respected Professor of engineering Kageyama was born in Kyushu in 1920, and graduated from Nippon University in 1943. He became a naval engineer, working on aero-engines, and then taught the subject at his old university, eventually becoming a Professor in 1965. He wrote numerous books, and received an Emperor’s medal. He died in 2008, a few months before receiving this latest award. Michiko Miyasu: Safety specialist Born in 1929, Miyasu joined the Marubeni trading company in 1946, before established her own shop five years later. In 1967, she set up a business that brought computer technology into the automotive world to enhance safety

Likely a coincidence. Running worse as it warms up and losing power sounds like it could be the temperature sensor or the connection at the temperature sensor not allowing the car to lean out enough to run properly when it reaches operating temperature.

It's one of the few different Kakimoto Racing/Kameari valve covers that were sold. Some of the others are in that thread but it's not modified.

That's the thread and post I was looking for when I saw this thread. This link will take you directly to that post.

I'd put it back on if I were you. (Unless you're saying you have a spare) I would think that something designed to keep the exhaust heat from boiling the fluid in the bumper shock would be a good thing. I debated not re-installing it when I did my car but my buddy, who is a long time Z mechanic, advised me that it will ruin the shock causing it to collapse without proper dampening in the event of an accident.

I've had them out an in in 3 hours by myself an under 2 hours with help. (When the help is someone who knows how to assist on a clutch job). But then I have all the necessary tools, air ratchets, compressor, trans jack, tall jack stands, dummy input shaft, pilot bearing tool, etc.

I should have added an 'AFAIK' to my post. I always forget about that 74.5 model which was basically a 280Z with an L26 instead of an L28E.

The rear sway bar didn't become standard until the 1975 280Z model. (in the U.S.) I'm not sure how that compares to other markets.

Would that be this one by any chance?

I don't know where the manual that the xenon site has comes from but the one I have is the Courtesy Nissan version. It's wiring diagram is quite usable.

I wonder why the diesels are getting scarce. Diesel fuel costs more than gasoline. Are that many of them being converted to biodiesel?

I've owned an Infiniti Q45...that money could have been better spent elsewhere. Also had a J30 which wasn't bad but the Q45 seemed like overkill. I felt like I was driving an Infiniti Coupe De Ville. Now what I'd really like would be a LHD Hakouska (sp?) 2 dr.

No, because I can put power to the plug, pull the socket from the housing and the bulb stays lit. If anything, the housing serves as a redundant ground.

Factory service manual. You can download a copy here.

For all intents and purposes would be the correct phrase. I can't count the number of times my father corrected my use of the malapropism "for all intensive purposes". Sorry, I experience a flashback whenever I hear that phrase. He was a great guy.

I guess that would help hold worn bulbholders but they ground through the wiring not the housing.

Be careful of that L24E they list(#314B). It's for sedans as it is a front sump engine and oil pickup would have to be modified, and the oil pan and dipstick would have to be changed to fit an S30/S130.