Everything posted by sblake01
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Spring Screw by TPS
Which smaller screw? The only screws I see on the throttle linkage are the ones that hold it together. My 78 may be a little different than your 76, but it has a dashpot that basically is a damper to keep the throttle from closing abruptly when you release the accelerator. It contacts the linkage at the throttle chamber where the rod from the linkage connects. I actually think that your cleaning of the connections had the most effect on correcting you car's problems. As far as the voltage guage, I've never seen a stock one that was accurate. Trust your voltmeter. My guage reads just under 16 (when the car is running) but the voltmeter says about 14.2-14.4 at that point. When not running, the guage says about 13 but the voltemeter says 12.4-12.5.
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260Z Zombie parts?
So it's more like 1.68 turns (x2) which would be a 3.36?
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260Z Zombie parts?
Yeah, I wondered about that. I can't fathom what the intented use of a 1.6 final drive ratio would be anyway. It would be like starting out in third gear.
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ECU problems
- I like my pick'n'pull. Best $30 I've ever spent.
Where I live in San Bernardino, there are 10 self service yards within a 30 mile radius. 5 Pick A Parts, 3 Ecologys, a Pic N Pull, and U Pick U Save. I do two seperate runs when I go junkyarding. The north run and the south run.- Spring Screw by TPS
The 'spring loaded screw' is the idle speed screw. What else did you adjust? The screw on the air flow meter? That's the bypass port. Adjustments to that should only be made with the use of some type of exhaust analyzer. Without one, you'll get it close but you won't get it right. Sounds like you need to read the manual a little more carefully. The fact that the car runs better with that 'seat of the pants' adjustment means either the adjustment is compensating for some other problem or the screw has been 'messed with' in the past and you adjusted it back to somewhere close to where it should be. Do you have emissions tests in Nebraska?- Automatic antenna in an S30
The problem with that is that the stock antenna raises or lowers and sort of 'idles' until you release the button based on a switched 12v signal and an a reversed but still switched 12v signal. A fully automatic stops itself when it reaches full retraction or extension based on constant 12v and switched 12v. The 'blue wire' only provides the switched 12v. Getting both signals runs it up and getting only the constant 12v runs it down. The setup it would take to make the stock antenna work off the blue wire from a modern unit would be rather elaborate and would not only include relays but some type of timer(s) as well. Seem like a lot of research and fabrication when you could just switch to the modern antenna or just use the stock one with the optional console switch.- R.I.P Pininfarina
He had a Dastun connection. I've read that he had design input into the 410/411 sedans/wagons.- Automatic antenna in an S30
We were discussing the use of a more modern fully automatic antenna in place of the stock semi auto unit.- heater (or lack thereof)
The switch and the capillary tube (metal vacuum hose as you put it) are for your AC and have nothing to do with the heater. The tube actually goes between the fins of your AC evaporator to sense the temperature and cycle the compressor on an off the keep the evaporator from freezing. There might be something in this thread that will be of help.- fuel relay location
You must have bought a 75-77 fuel injection relay. The one you need is to one with 6 terminals, to one farthest right in the picture. For a 78 the EFI main relay looks like this: And the 75-77 EFI main relay looks like this:- Best "performance" tire for a 70 240z
I have 225/60-14 Yokohama A-509's on my 280Z. They're unfortunately NLA. They might actually be a bit large but I've had no issues with them.- Transmission Mount Issue
He's on my exclude list also. He never discloses the shipping cost until you win the auction unless you ask him and he's slow to respond to questions about his items.- fuel relay location
That's the box with the fusible links on it just in front of the battery. You have to open it up to get to the relays.- fuel relay location
- 83-280 into a 78-280??
It will definately be challenging but I don't see why it can't be done. In using the harness from the ZX, you'll likely have to add some items to the Z that it didn't have like the O2 sensor, etc. Hopefully the ZX EFI harness ties into the main electrical system in the same way or at least similar enough to the way it ties into the system on the Z. Keep us posted.- Automatic antenna in an S30
You still kicking that idea around? I've had my fully automatic antenna in my 78 and working since 1998. I used the blue wire from my aftermarket radio connected to the plug for stock antenna for the switched lead and ran a unswiched 12 V to the other. I used the plug from the old antenna on that end and the plug from the old antenna switch on the other end. It's completely reversible if I ever want go back to stock as I still have a working original antenna and radio amongst my spares.- ECU problems
I'd return the ECU if the seller will take it back. Have you run a fuel pressure check? What condition are your underhood EFI system connectors in? Especially the one that connects to the temperature sensor but if you haven't checked them and cleaned the contacts on the good ones and replaced any bad ones, your problem could be there. I'm not up to speed on the history of this car but did it sit for a period of time before you bought it? Not sure whether you mentioned that in another thread or not. If it has, you might have problems in the gas tank.- When should fuel pump begin operating?
That would be quite the set of peculiarities considering the amount of work it would take to put the earlier setup in a 78 and actually have it work. So you say that your 78 has fuel pump contacts? Does it have an externally regulated alternator? Is you fuel injection relay above the steering column (75-77) or under the hood(78)? Those are pre-78 items. What's your build date?- When should fuel pump begin operating?
If yours is a 78, you will note that the harness that plugs into the AFM doesn't have terminals on the side where the fuel pump contacts would be in the 75-77 models. I'm not here to argue with you but my 78 doesn't have them, the FSM says it doesn't have them and no 78 I've ever worked on had them unless the AFM had been changed and, even then, they didn't work because there is no circuit for them in a 78. It is you that is providing the inaccurate information.- Fuel Injection Bible
Actually, it says "Turn off ignition before disconnecting control unit". Just that. You don't need to disconnect the battery. You'll need the power for the tests. Make sure you follow the notes at the bottom of each page in the tests. Another note: those tests are bacally for a 75 which doesn't use about 8 of the pins and IIRC a 76 uses all 35 pins so I'm not really sure how accurate those tests will be for you.- fuel relay location
Unless it's a 78 in which case it's in the relay bracket under the hood.- When should fuel pump begin operating?
I've said this before but not louldy enough apparently so I'll try this: 78'S DON'T HAVE FUEL PUMP CONTACTS IN THE AIR FLOW METER!!!!! Bob your car is working correctly. After a 78 starts it the fuel pump runs basically from a signal from the oil pressure sender. Look it up Tomohawk. No fuel pump contacts in the air flow meter after 1977.- New member here, I might have a ZZZap, but I need help to make sure
Play one of the mpegs in this link. This was Datsun's ad back in the day and may help to explain that.http://www.ttzd.com/movies/archive/280_15.html- Hazard lights
Do your turn signals work while you're have the intermittent problem with your hazzard lights? - I like my pick'n'pull. Best $30 I've ever spent.
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