Everything posted by sblake01
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A few 'simple' problems...
Likely the richness is caused by the temperature sensor. Could be leaky injectors or a problem with the thermotime switch/cold start valve however. Here's a link to the full 1976 280Z factory service manual. If you don't already have one, most, if not all, of the troubleshooting info you'll need is in it. http://www.xenons30.com/files/FSM/76_datsun_280z.zip
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83-280 into a 78-280??
If the 83 is a non turbo, all you'd have to do is make sure that the sensors from the 78 are transferred over to the 83 engine and plug everything into the existing 78 harness. There will be a cylinder head temperature sensor on the passenger side of the 83 engine that won't be used on the 78. You can either remove it and plug the hole or just leave it unplugged.
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This could happen to you
That would only really be a problem if the hood opened the other way...........
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National Z Convention History
You are definately not alone in that opinion.
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Another Dumb Question...are they 71's or 72's
Datsun roadster carbs have the floats on the left side but those don't look like roadster carbs. Maybe they're British SUs but they don't appear to be 240Z carbs.
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This could happen to you
There's a thread or two somewhere on that subject.
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New Slave.....No Result
Er, Carl, he got it working. See post #29.
- 'A Fuel-injected Investment' and 'Identified Datsun Flying Object'
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Diagram or Schematic for 1971 240Z ?
That second pic is likely the cowl drain. I have a 280Z so it's a little different in that I have two of those. One for the cowl drain and one for the AC evaporator drain.
- 'A Fuel-injected Investment' and 'Identified Datsun Flying Object'
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New Slave.....No Result
I open the bleeder, pump the pedal about 8 to 10 times, wedge the pedal with a telescopic bar that I use for just this purpose, close the bleeder, and check the clutch for functionality. I rarely have had to do that more than twice as long as I wasn't starting with a completely empty system. For that, I would use a second person.
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New Slave.....No Result
I agree with Bo. Something about the description of you attempts to bleed it didn't quite sound right. Not exactly sure what but sometimes it's hard to grasp everything that someone writes. I just know that I've bled several of these clutches and never had much problem doing it. Did you start with a completely empty system without bench bleeding the master first? That would likely explain the overall difficulty.
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New member here, I might have a ZZZap, but I need help to make sure
IMO a BPE has the SAP. A 78Z with black pearl paint is just that. JMO. My car isn't a 'Blue Metallic Edition'. I have those window stickers somewhere also.
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Random Screeching Grind at Ignition
Yes it should work. There's no difference between a 76 and a 78 flywheel. I've used the gear reduction starters on everything from the earlier Zs to 510s and trucks.
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Diagram or Schematic for 1971 240Z ?
I think the one E posted is from the Haynes manual, page 169. It doesn't scan well because the paper is too thin and you get bleed through from the page behind it.
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New Slave.....No Result
I think were getting mixed up on terminology here. The clutch fork is the withdrawal lever. Is the push rod from the slave cylinder moving the withdrawal lever?
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New member here, I might have a ZZZap, but I need help to make sure
They made code 411 yellow 77s and code 638 black 78s w/o the specail appearance package though not many of either. I'm old enough and into Datsuns enough the have seen both in the showroom. Without the stripes, etc, a yellow 77 is just a yellow 77 and a black 78 is just a black 78. While you wouldn't really call the non-SAP cars a 'ZZZap' or a 'BPE', or at least I wouldn't, they are rarer. What that's worth in either case is up to you. I don't think either of them are worth anything more than a regular 77 or 78 but that's JMO. Other than the paint, stripes, etc. there was no badging, or special vin number or anything like that to distinguish them from the mainstream 280Z. 30+ years have passed and, unless it's been in a vacuum, it will need work. If you restore one to the original setup, be it a ZZZap, or a BPE, you could do the same thing with a regular 77 or 78. If you did a good enough job, no one would be able to tell you that it wasn't genuine. That, to me, adds no extra value.
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New Slave.....No Result
At the point where you got a stedy stream of fluid with no air, did you hold the pedal down and then close the valve?
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78 280z barely running
Do you have the factory service manual. It's the best manual when it comes to dealing with these cars. You can download one at http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html. Other than that, it does sound like a fuel pressure issue to me also. Many variables there. Tank, pressure regulator, fuel pump, etc. My car had those same syptoms when I bought it in 1997 and it tank was the main culprit.
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Anybody know if mylar windshield sunshades are available?
I have the die cut logos on my Z and truck without the sunshield and they aren't in the wiper path.
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Attention SoCal!
I'll be there with the 810.
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Random Screeching Grind at Ignition
It it's the one pictured in the first link, that's the one. It's the same starter that's on my Z and 810.
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Random Screeching Grind at Ignition
I really doubt that your flywheel's teeth are the problem. It's often a weak solenoid or starter gear/drive.
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Random Screeching Grind at Ignition
The gear reduction stater is actually a 78-83 starter (84 if you include the Maxima). There's really no difference between the one used in the 78 280Z, the 78-84 810/Maxima, or the 79-83 ZX. But it is different from, and I think better than the starter used in the 77 and earlier vehicles. Visually, the differences are obvious. Up to 77: 79-84:
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Random Screeching Grind at Ignition
The gear reduction starters reduce the speed from the armature and increase the rotating torque. That should make for easier starting.