Everything posted by sblake01
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A/C Evaporator Core
You might try posing that question to an AC shop. Lots of pressure runs through the evaporator core so any repair would have to be done well. I've never repaired one myself but I imagine it could be done.
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Z Update
Here's links to the EFI Bible and the 1975 FSM. Like others have basically said, I wouldn't be so quick to yank the AFM and replace it just yet before doing some further and proper testing. You say your shop teacher owns a 82 280ZX. I'm not knocking his knowlege; I don't know him. But his reference to the AFM as a MAFS would make me a bit leary that he really knows these cars. I know of quite a few good mechanics that stumble a bit when it comes to Nissan's JECS system which is an adaptation of the Bosch L-Jetronic EFI built by the Japan Electronic Control System Co., Ltd. which was a joint venture between Robert Bosch GmbH, Nissan Motor Co. and Diesel Kiki Co., Ltd. So it's really not the same as the German system though similar. It has Nissans modifications so the book that Danglybanger mentions, which I have somewhere, can be somewhat useful but not nearly as much as Nissan's publications.
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Modernized 240Z?
It's nothing but some designers styling exercise and it has nothing to do with Nissan. It's been discussed to death here and on other sites. Nissan has no plans of producing this car or any other 'retro' 240Z and I doubt that they'd even be aware of this 'mock up'.
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1975 280Z rough idling
I would lean toward a. with an explaination. A stuck vavle, bad spark plug, or bad ignition wouldn't cause the injector not to click. Either the injector itself is bad, or somewhere in the connection to it is bad, either the connector itself or somewhere along the path of the two wires that run to it. With a device like a noid light (I made my own) you can plug into the connector and check for a signal. I also have another easy to make device that can be plugged onto the injector to check it's functionality. My tools may look kind of crude but they work. These were actually my 'prototypes' the finished ones look much better. These tools or something like them would be what you'd need:
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I just bought HLS30-00110
That would depend on the car. I came across one in the high dessert area about 5-6 years ago, I believe it was number 103 IIRC. I briefly thought about buying it but there just wasn't enough of it left to do anything with. I don't regret not buying it.
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Desmogging Hitachi Flat Tops
I rest my case.
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Z Update
I was going to say that. I don't know how familiar your auto shop teacher is with the Datsun EFI system but it's fairly common for people not familiar with these cars to mis-diagnose these cars and throw parts at them in attempt to solve problems. I'd make sure all of the vacuum hoses are hooked up correctly and all of the electrical connections are good and then run the functional tests on all of the EFI components before changing out parts.
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Valve Adjusting
Did you regain the compression in #3?
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Clanking coming from clutch or flywheel?
Well, for me, that would be one of those things where since you going to have to pull it apart anyway to inspect it, I"d have a new disc, plate and t.o. bearing ready to replace what's in there now and hope that it's not a input or mainshaft bearing though those can be changed also.
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Well, I finally bought 0ne.....
Something else that I've found helpful are member webdawg1's (Joe) spredsheets. Download them and fill them out as needed. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19172
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Looking for paint code
I doubt that the car pictured is a Datsun/Nissan color.
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Well, I finally bought 0ne.....
That's from the microfiche not the FSM. I don't use the carfiche microfiche so I'm not really familiar with it. For part numbers I use either the microfiche cd available through this site or the Nissan Fast program.
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Well, I finally bought 0ne.....
Those are the same. I just thought it would be easier to download it from xenon's site because you don't have to wait for it to become available as on carfiche. It's a service manual so you won't find part numbers in it. Once you've unzipped it, it opens with Adobe. I have Acrobat Profesionnal but at very least, you'll need the Adobe Acrobat Reader which is a free download from the Adobe site. http://adobe.9-download.com/?OVRAW=adobe&OVKEY=adobe&OVMTC=standard&OVADID=18323113522&OVKWID=4013017522
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Well, I finally bought 0ne.....
Forget carfiche. Since you have a 73, go here. You won't have to deal with it being temporarily not available.http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html
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I want an original key blank
I never said they would fit a 240.
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Well, I finally bought 0ne.....
Congrats! You may have to change your screen name:) Keep us posted on your progress.
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I want an original key blank
Wow, that's 'interesting'! I stand corrected. Have you considered getting the proper ignition and returning it to the original setup?
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"Other" Datsuns...
The 77-79 was never called 'Maxima'. The A/T was always available on them reagardless of trim level. In the 1980 model year the 910 debuted but was badged as an 810 and continued through the 84 model year. I believe the Maxima name went on it in 81. It was RWD. The FWD V6 Maxima didn't appear until 1985.
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77 280 alternator and volt regulator puzzle
When you get a chance, check and see if you 77 has the rest of the 78 electronics like the lack of fuel pump contact points in the AFM and the fuel injection relay under the hood instead of under the dash. Just curious. I helped a guy out with a 77 a couple of years ago with a 77 (6/77) and his car had all of the 78 stuff on it.
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"Other" Datsuns...
I've waffled back and forth about building the engine in my 810 since it's a daily driver. I decided to leave it stock. I can run 87 octane, get 25+ mpg, and go anywhere in it in air conditioned comfort......well as much comfort as a vehicle designed 30+ years ago will give.
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"Other" Datsuns...
In my mind the 810 is definately a 70s car and the Maxima is an 80s (and up) car. It has all of the 70s stuff. Big bumpers, plaid/houndstooth or whatever disco era type pattern they could come up with in the interior, gun sight type hood ornament, opera windows etc. Kind of like Nissans answer to the Toyota Crown. But rather than copy it so they looked the same, regardless of manufacturer, as least back then you could distinguish a Toyota form a Nissan/Datsun without reading the emblems.
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"Other" Datsuns...
The true 810 was only available from 77-79 with a few beinig sold as 1980 kind of like the transition in late 1974 from the 260Z to the 280Z. The 'Maxima' bodied one that were badged as the 810 in 1980 and 1981 don't count. A 77-79 810 is certainly a 'larger, fancier sedan/coupe' and it was 'entrenched' in the 70s. You just don't see them that often, especially 2 dr. hardtops like mine, because they didn't really catch on that well, then or now, as I only know of a handful of people that own them, and even fewer who know what they are when they do see them.
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Clutch slave return spring?
I reacall those slaves with the spring being readily available years ago. The 510s also used them and it would have been easy to get that one instead of the later one because either would work and the average parts counter guy didn't know any more about Datsuns then than they do now.
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Message to the GUYS of CZCC
This thread really needs to be stopped. Not that it's intent wasn't good but what goes on here goes on an any site to some extent. The mods chime in to get the members to 'ease up' and that works for a while. As they say, people will do what's inspected rather than what's expected. In the meantime, you end up with all of these 'sidebars', like in most other threads. Then we end up talking about those. It just spirals into all of these different things, like who thinks who's wife is hot, who's parents know what their kids are doing, etc. The actual intent gets lost. It was a noble effort by Mike to attempt to quell the perceived problem but it has lost it's direction.
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Message to the GUYS of CZCC
No, I've always been about 6' 2" and between 195-205 lbs. since my college days.