sblake01

I think so too but she's dblake.

Hey Mark, I like that idea. I'll use Daisey as my Crossgenderavitar for a while.

When you replaced your battery cables did you hook up the two wires that connect to the positive cable that feed the fusible links?

As I recall, there are more wires on the 74 and up units than there are on the earlier ones. You'd have to compare wiring diagrams to see what does what. Even if you get that part figured out I'm not sure the 74 gauge would match up with the 72 sender.

I don't know what forum but it sounds like you have a problem with the rubber hose that connects the fuel tank with the fuel filler.

Do you mean green/white? I guess that can look like yellow after 30 years.:classic:

'ATTA GIRL! I was hoping that all of this hadn't driven you away. The more this is discussed, the worse it seems. In my opinion, it really wasn't all that serious.

Well, I don't drink but I will be at that opening (I wouldn't miss it!). You have under 100 posts and I have over 6000 and you've probably contributed more social comment than I. It's just not something I often do but it doesn't bother me unless it takes over during a technical discussion. I really don't spend much time in the social areas of this site so I wouldn't really know if they're slow or not.

Ah, the stuff in the shout box was just opinion, nothing more. Just because I disagree with someone that doesn't put them on my bad side. Every site you visit, or at least the one's I visit, there are going to be things you like about them and things you don't. I think, overall, we're a pretty good group here. I don't really look for the 'social side' on a site. But, like anything else social, you can choose to participate or not. But when it gets intertwined with the non-social stuff, this is what happens. That was really the only complaint I had with that thread. The comments you're probably referring to were most likely: -and- Those were merely sarcasm which get lost with the written (typed) word.

Generally, I'd agree with your guy from work. There's a lot of things I wouldn't buy for an older car like a Z or a 510/810 etc. from the chain stores. Especially Autozone (from personal experience). I didn't suggest Kragen/Advance for those distributors, they just brought them to me to install. Based on the performance, in one case, well over three years, there have been no problems. I even checked that one with my vacuum gun and the advance still works fine after all that time.

Thanks for the accolades. About the topic, I just didn't see anything offensive in that post. I can't understand why Dan is so defensive of what took place in it either. What was 'vicious' in that thread?

This is basically what happened in the thread in question. Difference of opinion. Everyone has the right to 'agree to disagree'. Sometimes I think the collective 'skin' could be a little thicker, however.

That isn't even what took place. The person that you are likely referring to tried to justify some things that she was doing here that some people found objectionable and when people voiced their opinions she took offense. Everyone is entiitled to their opinion and everone is entitled to their reaction. People were polarized, pro and con. I don't recall any of it being offensive and way too much was made of it. If she left, no one told her to, it was her choice. Mike, you said it yourlself in your other post:

Same here plus TomoHawk will be there (j/k)

Advance Auto is basically the same as Kragen on the west coast. Same parent company, Parts America. That is the distributor I've installed on a couple of cars with no problems. 31618 is the part number. They list it at $109.99 on the site and if you print that page and take it in with you they will honor that price. I know that's not much of a difference but that's how I buy parts from them.

Now, that makes sense to me. Don't touch the oil pump just yet. If your advance is stuck in an advanced position that would explain why you can't get it back to 10 degrees. It's supposed to moeve freely when you apply vacuum to it and then snap back when you stop the vacuum. You can rebuild the distributor but maybe a rebuilt one would be the best bet if you aren't used to doing them yourself. Kragen sells one for about $110. Normally I wouldn't suggest the chain type auto parts stores for parts like this but the 280Z distributor is not quite as complex as the ZX (E12-80) and it would be pretty hard for them to mess it up. I've installed a couple of their distributors for people and, so far, no complaints.

There is no wire 'from the AFM' other than the plug from the harness. The wire you're talking about is the ground. The AFM gets it's ground from being bolted to the bracket and the wire is just an extra ground. The one end of that wire you can see where it bolts, the other end is bolted on the bottom of the bracket under the bolt that under the back of the AFM where the front of the rubber duct meet it, like David's photo shows. It's purpose, who knows? I've run cars without that wire and have seen no change in performance, mileage, anything so if you're looking to solve a problem by hooking it up, I'm doubting that will happen.

Actually, that's the order that my wires are in and I do believe that it is the correct setup and, as per that picture, the rotor would be pointing at #1 when the engine is at TDC. Possibly when you were checking TDC you weren't on the compression stroke? What I meant in my last post is that if the distributor drive is off, wherever TDC ends up, the car would run as long as the #1 wire is at the point where the rotor is and the rest of the wires follow the firing order from there. I hope you get what I'm saying. I'm better at doing it than explaining it.

It will run that way as long as the wires coincide with the position of the oil pump but you'll have a tough time getting your timing set or even getting an accurate reading. Too much wobble in the dizzy shaft isn't a good thing but it won't affect things as badly as the timing being off.

It connects under one of the 10 mm bolts on the afm mount, the one closest to the bottom of the coil, if that makes sense.

A 77 has a different link for the ignition-efi relay than a 76. It's not easier to switch to MAXI fuses or circuit breakers. Those are just other choice.

If the timing mark is a 0 and the rotor points to #6 I'd say the distributor shaft is not in the right position. As far as checking the advance, you don't blow into the vaccum hose, you suck on it or use a vaccum gun. You'd be looking for clockwise movement of the breaker plate assembly and it should spring back once the vaccum is stopped. If not, and the vaccum pot holds vaccum, the ball bearings beneath the plate need to be lubed or they're damaged/missing.

Find yourself a good muffler shop and have him build you a system.

Rev limiter? I wasn't aware that a 280Z had one. But, seriously, it sounds like it's time to replace the tach.

The simple answer is no. Some dealers did things like the infamous 'Z-Hawk' but there was no factory 'SE' that I've ever heard of. Isn't the SE designation a Chrysler thing?