sblake01

According the the microfiche, if your VIN is 030001-060000, it's a 76. From 060001-110000 would be a 77. (2+2 VINs are different from the 2 seaters which is why Michael VIN doesn't fit that scenario) 5 speeds weren't available until 1977 but are an easy swap to the earlier years. Likely installed by a pervious owner unless your car turns out to be a 77 with 76 bumpers but I've never seen that done. The 170 HP rating began with the 1975 model and didn't change until 1979 w/the 280ZX when they began using a different type of HP rating.

It's been over 2½ years since I sold my Datsuns. I'm happy with the vehicles I have now, you know, one door closes; another one opens. Totally different direction, however. 64 Grand Prix, 84 Corvette C4, and a 05 Pontiac GTO along with my DD 90 Ford Ranger. Don't know if I'll own another Datsun. The 'right one' would have to present itself. I still miss the ones I most recently owed and really only know the whereabouts of the old red 64 L320 as I've lost track of the 280Z and 810. In fact, the 810 went to the Middle East. The guy seem to take good care of the truck. Things have changed, my interest in vehicles (obviously!), this site since the format change and the influx of ZCar.com people and I don't see as many of the 'old timers' here. I don't spend as much time here as I used to but I'm still here now and then. It's a hard habit to break......

Yes but it would be hard to start in cold weather because it wouldn't be getting the 'signal' to open the cold start valve and it would be too rich when it reached operating temperature since it wouldn't be getting the proper 'signal' from the temp sensor.

Check the plug that goes into the cold start valve against those two sets of wires for continuity. The ones that show continuity with the cold start valve connector goes to the thermotime switch.

The other one he's describing on a 76 isn't a second proportioning valve. That's the the brake line pressure differential warning light switch.

Sounds like you only vaguely got the point..............

I suspect other reasons for mentioning "roar of my Chevy 350 V8 I run with duel ('dual'?) Supertrapps" besides the concern about vandalism but...I'll be nice....

That's what I was thinking.......

Not sure how a 280ZX is setup but my guess would be that the box is either where the the E.F.I. relay or fusible links are located.

That's an 'agreed value' policy. Same as many of us have/had. That doesn't mean the car is worth that, i.e. you could put it up for sale and get that for it. All that means is that for the premium you pay, that is what the insurance company will cover it for. The car is insured to $19K which is not at all the same as saying the car is 'worth $19K'.

Coming from the guy who created this: :)

Reddat's clamps appear to be the hex type also at least on the larger ones like heater or radiator hose clamps.

That kind of looks like the tool I use for similar jobs and I think I've even used it on Z door springs or one of my other Datsuns. Mine is a 'small engine valve spring compressor'. I guess it's designed for lawnmower engines, etc. Had it so long I don't even remember where I bought it.

$2395.75 total? Isn't that at least $1400-1500 low?

Sounds like an internally reg'd alt to me. But I think is should be one is black (ground) two are white and one is blue with that white and blue on a 'T' shaped plug. Should be the same LR160 alternator used on most 78-83 S30s, S130s, 810s, RWD Maximas, etc. Here's a link to a 1979 280ZX factory service manual: http://www.xenons130.com/files/1979%20280zx%20FSM.zip

My bad. I took those numbers directly from the 1972 FSM tune up section and I now realize that those would have to be the Euro numbers because, right below in on the chart, it says 5°/750rpm L24 SU twin emission control.

Note the picture in post *1. The stock 280Z air box draws air from in front of the radiator, just behind the center-right side of the grille. Pretty much the same area that the aftermarket one does (post #2). As 'cool' and area as it could draw air from. I drove the car for 12 years, alternating between the two systems, using the stock setup for emissions testing. The air still has to make a sharp right turn and then a sharp left turn in either case. I didn't notice any difference in throttle response.

Welcome. As Zed Head said, your car shouldn't have an external regulator. How did you come to the conclusion that it does? Where in Calfornia are you located?

That's not the answer to the question he asked. Is your distributor set at roughly 17° @ 650~700 rpm? (IIRC, that's the setting for a 240Z - I had a 280Z most recently which would be different)

I think we've got a couple of differnent directions going. His question was about a stock air box vs. an aftermarket intake rather than a paper filter vs. a K&N filter. I only added that a K&N filter could be used in either.

I used a K&N drop in filter in the original housing as well as a K&N cone filter on the CAI, so they both could be cleaned, re oiled, and reused.

I don't know, I had both on my 78 at one time or another. It looked and sounded cool , but I couldn't really tell any difference performance wise.

Pretty much the definition of 'anecdotal'......

According to the microfiche, your car would be an early 77 as I thought. It shows a 1977 as 8/76 to 7/77 and 350001 to 420000. How did it get registered as a 78?

Okay, well maybe that narrows it down a bit. I know all of the 78s and all but one of the 77s I've seen had flat, raised decks. Maybe the sloped, curved decks went from mid 76 to early 77.