sblake01

About 90. It doesn't stay at the temp for long because that's about where the compressor will turn off until the evap. temp gets back to above freezing. It will stay basically in the low 30s at the center vent while driving even in temps over 100 degrees at the second lowest fan speed. I was testing on that day for the vent temp I could achieve at idle on the highest fan speed. The 810 which has factory air is a degree or so lower than the Z which has dealer installed air but it's the ARA system with a center mounted evaporator. Those readings were taken about a year ago using Johnson's Freeze12 which is an R-12 replacement. It's non-flamable, non-hydrocarbon, non CFC, EPA accepted, and it works with existing R-12 lubricant. I know that sounds like a commercial but I'm not trying to endorse anything here. I've experimented with a lot of refrigerants over the years and this is the one I use now because it works, hasn't caused any problems in either vehicle in a year and a half of use and costs 1/4 of what R12 costs. It runs at lower pressures that R12, takes less, and cools better. At least, that's been my experience so far.

The link doesn't work

I still think you need to actually check the fuel pressure. Hook up a guage and get an actual number. The pressure could be say 15 psi and it would push fuel into a container but it wouldn't be enough to start and run the car. Been there, done that. At least check it then if I'm wrong then you can rule that out and move to the next step knowing at least that your fuel pressure is okay.

Sound like a fuel delivery problem. You need to hook up a pressure guage and see what the pressure is while you're cranking it and for the breif time it runs on starting fluid. If it doesn't show roughly 37-38 psi the you have a fuel delivery problem. Oh, and Austen, the Z efi system doesn't work that way. If the Z starts when you do that it's really just coincidence since vaccum which is basically non existent until the car actually starts is more important that the throttle position. At best, that would richen the fuel mixture since you'd be moving the throttle position sensor to the full throttle position.

I won't voice my disagreement until you explain what you think that process accomplishes on a fuel injected car.

40 degrees at the center vent? Not cold enough.

Try this page, it should help:

Under the passenger seat.

I have no actual experience with the MSA system but from looking at it, it appears to be a typical universal fit system set up to fit in a Z rather than a designed for R134a system like the Vintage Air system that Carl mentioned in the other thread. R134a runs a higher pressures than R12 or it's alternatives. If the system isn't specifically designed for it, i.e. smaller and more tubing in the condenser and eaporator, R134a type seals and o rings, etc., it won't work as well as the system you're replacing nor will it last as long. I'd never retrofit an R12 system to R134a either, despite what you may have heard. My pratical experience there shows that will lead to premature leaking and failure of the system. There are good alternatives to R12 that mimic the qualities of R12. Freeze12 is the one I presently use. It actually operates at lower pressures than R12 which is always a good thing and it cools better IMO. There are a couple of other good R12 alternatives on the market but I'd steer clear of the ones that are hydrocarbon based. When you say your old system needs to be replaced, what problems are you having with it? Is it based on the old upright York compressor?

I forgot about that system. I installed one in my brother-in-law's custom 58 Chevy wagon a couple years back. It's a 'designed for R134a' system. Cools that big car very well, vent temps below 30 deg. But back to the the factory installed system. Though it's not the most efficient design, I've done a couple of Z's for my friend's shop using the old dealer installed system, a better condenser, the Sanden compressor, and Honda blower motor and the results are more than satisfactory. Especially when compared to the York system as it was installed. The York system would only achieve 38-39 degree vent temps but with upgrades I've got the center vents down to as low as 27 degrees which is, like I said, more than sastisfactory.

I just carried my towel in my back pocket and wore my Dodger Jackie Robinson jersey to work (#42 of course).

MSA makes a kit to convert the old York compressor based systems to a more modern, more efficient Sanden rotary compressor. With that, it's really not a bad system. 76Datsun280z is refering to a factory system which yours is not. Obviously he got his advice from someone who repairs ac for a living. The drier on your car (mally02) is a generic drier and costs less than 25 bucks if you know where to get them. I wouldn't necessarily replace them every three years but I would replace it when installing a new compressor in a system that hasn't been working for a while. My advice would be, run a flush through the system, change to the compressor I mentioned, along with a new rec/drier and charge it with Freeze12 or one of the non hydrocarbon R12 replacements. R134a runs at too high a pressure for my liking. The modern systems that are factory built and installed to work with R134a are fine with their climate control, etc., but I wouldn't retrofit a R12 sytem to R134a nor would I be too interested in an aftermarket bolt on system that uses it. These are just my opinions but they are based on almost twenty years of expericence with ac both home and auto.

Driving without a thermostat could cause the operating temperature to be too low. I don't know how important that is on the carbureated cars, though I'm sure it is, but on the fuel injected cars it can throw the fuel mixture off.

Use a relay. I have relay on the auxiliary electric fans on both my Z and my 810. Though both cars have the later type alternator, I notice no drop in voltage when the fans are on.

I also have an electric fan on the front of the a/c condenser that only runs when the a/c is on. I don't know how much it helps w/overall cooling but it really helps in keeping the a/c vent temps down at lower speeds.

Once you do know what the question actually is, you'll know what the answer means...

You haven't said what year your car is but the earlier cars, 240z, 260z, early 280z would be externally regulated unless they've been converted. And, I might be wrong but I believe that only the 1978 280z was internally regulated from the factory.

Ease up, Bill! And make up your mind. We bought a Chevy wagon (HHR) and you said it was ugly!:classic:

You forgot this one:

I played sax in a band back in the 80s called 'A.K.A. 42'.

You're probably a bit too young to know that. I think the book was written in 1979 and the radio series was aired about a year before that IIRC.

Click on the red oval.