sblake01

I think those are still available through Nissan. At least they were a year ago when I bought one.

Nor where there ever any giltter painted versions, from the factory, of the 40343-P7100 wheel center which goes with the 280ZX 'Iron Cross' wheel.

Naa, naa, naa.

Spoken like a true 260Z owner! But seriously, the increase in displacement was to compensate for the loss of power caused by attempting to meet more stringent emissions standards. At least, that's what every publication I've ever read says is the reason.

My guess would be weak coolant or no coolant. Most coolants have some type of anit rust in their formulation and once that breaks down so does it's protection. I have purchased cars that had nothing but water in them when I bought them and it takes several flushes before the flush water comes out clear. I'm not sure that you ever really get it all.

After reading E's answer, I like it better than mine since I'm more used to dealing with later S30's.

I don't know how the wiring is set up since we didn't get Z's with factory air, assuming that yours is factory, until 1974. My guess is that the wires you describe are for the pressure cut out switch on the receiver/drier. However, I can't imagine that they would be wired in such a way that would stop the car from running if disconnected. That switch is supposed to turn off the compressor if the pressure drops too low to prevent damage to it. Since the wires just complete a circuit, I'd try putting the cut wires together after making sure that niether is a ground.

The existance of those plugs simply means that your radiator was replaced sometime in the past with one for an auto trans car. Those plugs plug the area where the trans fluid would flow for cooling purposes if you had an automatic transmission.

Not for me. I don't care much for additives in the cooling sytem other than antifreeze.

Flushing the cooling system has been on my maintenance list basically ever since I've been involved with cars. Roughly every two years depending upon how much the car or truck has been driven. If you wait until you are 'circulating thick brown mud' you're asking for problems.

I'm pretty sure he means with the roundtops.

I can get them for even less with my employee discount.

You've been misinformed. 76 had the same factory options as in post 2 though the alloy wheels were seldom seen on them and the hubcaps may have been the late 240 or 260 type. Your wheels may have been a dealer installed item which was quite common back in the day.

You have no need to apologize to me. All I did was state my opinion. You did start more than one thread in attempt to sell your car and you did hyjack other threads with that same purpose. If your sole purpose in posting was to sell your car, the classifieds would have been less annoying than running mileage updates every day or so. You can post here as much as you would like, my comments don't really mean much.

The question was will it mount up. I don't think it's worthless to you though it might take a little effort to install it. I'll defer to the 240Z guys as to how much. I know the 280Z consoles interchange among the 280Z's but I'm not familiar with the fitment issues among the 240Z's.

You really need to stop this. You've made your point through duplicate threads and by hijacking other threads. The running mileage update is really not necessary.

I wouldn't have even paid $500 for it. That's the kind of thing that you just have to luck up on in the junkyard. That's how I found my '2400' valve cover and a JDM 'NISSAN' valve cover among other things. To the junkyards, they're just valve covers. Ten bucks or less. I sold the JDM cover to a kid for $100 bucks a couple of years ago without even cleaning it up. Over $2k, that's just ridiculous!

This is from the 78 owners manual but it shoud also apply to your 74.

You might also try Fastenal. They just opened a store near me and the guy there said that they can get virtually every kind of bolt, stud, nut, washer, etc. He said if it wasn't in the store that it's in the catalog.

Dashpot.

Go to this link and scroll down to the two compresors near the bottom. The second one is the one you want. Norm sells his stuff for about 1/4 to 1/3 of the msrp. These are oem nos units. You may have to change the high side port to the one that's on your old compressor but it will work. Would be much easier than trying to replace seals in an old compressor especially if your not familiar with that kind of work as I am. http://www.oem-surplus.com/nwp/8101.htm

They wouldn't be these by any chance, would they? If so, don't ever get rid of them! (unless you sell them to me)

One wire on the back of that knob sends power to the A/C clutch. The other wire receives power from the fan switch thorough a microswitch that only allows power to go through when the top lever is in the off or vent position. The copper tube senses temperature at the evaporator and turns off the compressor at different temperatures depending on where the knob is set which also prevents the evaporator from freezing up.

I wasn't sure if you mean the trans has no reverse when you shift into it or if it pops out of reverse when you shift into it. If the bottom bushing is not there or in bad shape it could keep you from getting the trans completely shifted into reverse in which case it won't stay there when you apply power. If that's the case then new bushings are worth a try. Costs less than a trans.