sblake01

If you need them the part numbers are 32855-H1010 for number 25 and you need two and 32861-N4200 for number 27.

I'd say if you have it, put it on. I've had mine off for a while and didn't notice anything different but I guess Nissan put it there for a reason. The odd thing is my 810 though it has the same basic setup as the Z doesn't have that part or even a provision to mount one.

I think he presently has the same one's I do. They look like the black plastic version of the chrome ones in post 1.

Are all three bushings there and in good shape? The two that the pin goes through to hold the shifter in place and the one on the bottom of it?

You have non-factory air. You won't find any of the stuff that's in the factory AC wiring diagram. Does it work?

Not stupid at all. In fact it's a very common problem with this nearly 30 year old rubber to crack in between the folds. I replaced mine about 8 years ago that is the one right in front of the throttle body but I don't think Nissan has them anymore.

Throttle position sensor? A bad one or badly adjusted one could casue that problem. Also the altitude switch but only if it was originally a California car. There are other items to check also. An FSM would be your best bet since it has a troublshooting algorhythm for EFI problems. Racing clutches and cowl induction hoods etc. won't do much good if you are unfamiliar with the EFI system.

Looks like the responses vary. I also have the same ones in black. IMO, they're junk. Oh, they look good I guess but over time, they loosen up and won't hold their adjustment. MSA sells them but they look like the same ones you can buy at Auto Zone or Kragen, etc. for less.

I prefer the design of the oem thermostat.

Try http://www.nissanparts.cc/ type the number in the search box.

Gee, that post was a year and a half ago. I don't use R414B anymore because I've found something better. I've been using Freeze12 (not ES12 which is a hydrocarbon base) in R12 systems for over a year now. It cools better than R414B, costs less and is approved for automotive use. No change of lubricant or components is necessary. Here's some info: http://store.lenzdist.com/product.php?xProd=722&xSec=1 This is also the best place to buy it. He also sell cans if you don't need a 30lb cylinder. But you do need a liscense.

Nissan. 21200-F3160

Checked it out today. According to their manager, they don't have them nor are the in their catalog.:disappoin

Will, did you get my cd? 76 and 82 FSM's and 78 owners manual? I checked them for errors. You don't have to return them.

There's no engine number on the data tag of my 5/78. The engine number is 275875.

http://www.oem-surplus.com/nwp/index.htm has a couple that might work. The first one is for a 77-80 810 automatic and the second one is for a 210 from about the same era. I'd lean toward the 810 one since they used the same trans. Not reall sure about the 210. Norm is a good guy and he'll sell it to you cheap!

Only these hubcaps on stock wheels and the rims shown were put on 78 280Z's from the factory.

You really should create your own thread rather than hyjacking and then basically taking over threads (both new and old like this one). What is an 'open mso'?

They (Fastenal) just opened a new store right down the hill from me. I'll check it out. I thought the rivets were still available from Nissan. I've got a couple of packs of 10 that I bought about two years ago. The part number is 90909-E4100.

My 810 is the brown car in the foreground. That's and old picture. 810 refers to it's designation which is KHLG810. That's a US market version of the Australian Datsun 200B.

He said 'electric mirror switces'. I believe I've seen that combo (wind up windows w/electric mirrors) on USA S130's. My 810 is set up that way also.

Back to the actual topic of this thread: The 76 280Z. It's up to $14K with about 3 1/2 days left.

21200-F3160 is the part number for the 160 deg. thermostat. I run them year round here in California in both the Z and the 810. Both have stock clutch fans, AC, and auxiliary fans on the front side of the condensor that run whe the AC is on. Neither on goes past the center of the guage even on the hottest days with the AC running. And, Carl, I also use the 'cardboard test' to test clutch fans and have for years. Anyone who wants to try that: just make sure you fully understand #3 in Carl's explanation!

No but I did give it some thought. The Red/Black 10th Anniversary is the only ZX I'd ever want but reality set in as we've already got four vehicles here.

Well, 'down the line' will come sooner than you expect. I tried that when I bought my 78 with the same problem. The 'crud' as I guess most of us call it, will play games with your fuel pressure as it is pulled into the smaller passages on they way to your engine eventually putting you right back to square one. The best way to test would be to let your fuel pump draw clean gas from a can but based on my experience and what you've described, your tank has to be repaired/replaced.