sblake01

I sat in the one that Toyota brought out to the JCCS last year. Definately not made for someone my height (6'-2").

Up to $27500 per day per instance of non compliance with EPA section 609!

Try this part number: 32703-86401 http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=32703-86401 And you'll also need the sleeve: 32707-66300 http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=32707-66300&Category_Code= Be advised that these are listed for the FS5C71B and FSC71B 5 spds. I think they'll work on the FS5W71B but someone chime in here please if they know different.

But I'm still trying to understand the 'dime a dozen' comment. To the layman, it's still just a Z. I would rather have a 240Z than a RHD Fairlady for the reasons that Mr. Camouflage mentions. If I wanted a unique Japanese sports car, it would be something like this.

Sometimes I wonder why you post.

Too bad you're so far from me, I'm a certified MVAC tech and I'd do it for free but Newtown, Ct. would be quite the road trip!

Okay then, considering that you were 9 of the 13 previous posts, I'd say it has be pretty much covered.

I grab those whenever I see good ones in the junkyard. I'm pretty much set if I ever break one on either car. Besides, metal might not be the best material to have you wires joined together with.

Check into gears for the 620/720 pickups and 200SX/HLA10(late 510) 5 speeds. I'm sure that since they were 4 cyl they probably had gears in that range.

As Sajiko said, he means Weiand and by 'covers' he means air cleaners. Weiand wes a big time speed equipment company that had been around for years and, like as is the sign of the times, they've been bought out by Holley as they've bought out a lot of the old school high performance names like Hooker Headers, Earl's etc. http://www.holley.com/index.asp?division=Weiand

A 76 should be .0039-.0043 according to my book. I have a 78 but I also have the FSM for a 76. The gap on cars with electronic ignition is always a little wider than that of point type ignition. Sound like they were giving you the specs for a 240Z.

That's normal operation for a standard differential. Your speedo will be way off with the 4.375 until you change the speedo gear. Your rpm will also increase by about 29% at any given speed. Do you have a 5 speed?

Again, I'm not here to debate the issue, get advice, or endorsement from anyone. I was merely asnwering Tomohawk's question. You like what you like and I like what I like. Nothing wrong with that.

Here in the USA, most people couldn't tell you the name of the Australian Prime Minister, but the name Steve Irwin was well known. He will be missed.

I don't need them. I have plenty. I was just wondering if the one's jmanz6 sells as the "good connectors" are the ones I pictured. The ones I pictured are far better than the OEM regardless of what anyone says. Trust me on that one! I'm the old fart with years of experience with these cars. I'm not looking for advice or endorsement from anyone on these. My cars both have been upgraded to these. Years ago on the 810 and last week on the Z because it really didn't need them up until then.

In other words, do you sell these connectors and boots which are the ones we've been discussing here. I clicked on your link but didn't see them. If you do have them what's your price?

Well, there is the ignition coil. It won't kill you but it can give you a pretty good bite!

I'd try removing it and cleaning/lubing it first. 74-78 motors produce a pretty good air flow compared to the earlier ones. 27175-U0100 is the number. I purchased one in 2000 from Nissan but I'm not sure if they would still have them.

My total cost was less than 10 bucks, soldering an shrink wrap is easy, no crimping and in total time it took about a half hour.

I think you are kind of over thinking it. It's pretty simple. Take a look at the attachment in my last post.

The modern injector clips won't fit our type of injectors. I have taken the entire BMW harness on a couple of occaisions with the idea of using it in its' entirety, but it is much simpler to do the individual connectors than it would be to use the BMW harness. BMW 6 cyl from the early to mid 80s have the connectors as well as Volvos but I don't know which years. Here's the back three on my Z. They look better than OEM IMO.

I just don't think this was the guy to do it. At least, not here. His responses to the questions asked and his general attitude pretty much prooved that. Sajiko's previous post sums it up quite well. I think its time to put this one to bed!

Such a 'useful' response.:stupid: Anyway, in answer to Tomo's question, I have been told that the polarity doesn't matter but I made sure that it was correct when I did the upgrde on both of my cars. Once you pull back or should I say break off the old insulators the numbers are actually printed vertically along each wire. I matched them up the the new connectors as per the attachment in post #2. Make sure that you also clean the contacts on the fuel injectors. Use an emory board, small file etc. If you're referring to the connectors I've seen on eBay, they're probably the standard ones that Datsun originally used and would be subject to the same deterioration over time. The Bosch connectors, even the one's I find in the junkyard, seal better, are made of better materials, and the terminals always seem to look clean when you pull them off the injectors.

If you have a voltmeter, check the voltage (on the terminals not the battery posts) before you try to start the car or attempt to turn on lights etc. The check it after you turn something on and hear the 'click'. If the voltage changes drastically, clean your battery terminals and posts and make sure they're tight enough so you can't move the terminals on the posts. Then see if the problem persists.

Actually, some valid concerns were expressed. Rather than answering them head on you chose to become defensive furthering this concieved combative attitude. Having said that am I now an asshole too?