sblake01

Would this be of any help? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-280Z-280ZX-TURBO-510-B210-LABOR-PARTS-GUIDE_W0QQitemZ130008314000QQihZ003QQcategoryZ6762QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

R420A or RB276 is not designed for smaller mobile systems such as automotive a/c. It's actually for chillers/freezers etc. I've heard of people using it in cars but have no direct personal experience with it. As far as the butane/propane content in some R12 alternative goes, due to the fractionization that takes place when a refrigerant leaks, the chance of an explosion or fire is virtuall nil and there have been no reported cases. The R134a molecule is much smaller than R12 and whereas it will work in an R12 system, over the long haul, it will just cause problems. The higher pressure that R134a requires will cause problems in a system not designed for it. In short, do not use R134a in a system designed for R12. You don't need any kind of cetification to purchase R134a. They sell it over the counter to anyone in auto parts stores, Costco, etc. But I digress. R414B (Hotshot), RedTek12, Envirosafe 12, Freeze12, and any of the other alternatives to R12, whether they are hydrocarbon based or not, are tested to a standard, and are no more dangerous in tems of explostion or fire than a CFC or HCFC refrigerant. That stuff that we carry in that big metal tank behind the differential is more dangerous. Bottom line---if you have R12, when you get your condenser replaced, use it.

No G, it's not a 2+2.

His would actually begin with 'RLS30' since it's a 260Z.

Bummer, I'm sure you mean Butane rather than Propane but this is a good caution to others not to leave any type of pressurized lighter in your car. Especially on days like we've had recently.

Most shops will not use your refrigerant to charge your car. R414B works well in a R12 system but RedTek12 works a little better and costs less. I have used both but switched to RedTek about a year ago with both of my R12 cars with no problems. However, if you have R12 and a means to charge your system, I'd use that instead. The only reason I have switched to alternatives is the high cost and the difficulty obtaining R12.

Might this be the one? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1970-Datsun-240Z-MINT-Original-Car-Rare-Auto-Trans_W0QQitemZ150007956160QQihZ005QQcategoryZ6187QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Well, it is a multiple choice poll:eek:

We'll I have 2256014s on the front of mine and they were able to align the front without the kit.

RickX, what does that verbose gibberish have to do with this thread?

I used MSA part number 23-4171, which is a rear camber adjustment kit, to get the rear alignment back in spec.

Not the whole time. He only pedaled it in the first four races. He actually ran the car in the last race and it surprised me that the Hybrid Z guys fell for that.

DZR, you have a PM.

I hope we can just let that go for the purpose of this poll. What I mean is whether one cosiders a ZX a Z or not, it does share a lot with the S30. I am, however, happy to see that the Z31, Z32, and Z33 aren't included here.

Or just the fact that they took a slingshot to a bear hunt.

Hence, Tomohawk's interest.

So #1456 was the first to have a defroster. I didn't know the number was that high. I had always heard that the first 500 or so didn't have a defroster. I guess you can teach and old dog new tricks:classic:

I once owned #488, no defroster.

My 78 280 has no chain and no hole to mount it.

But remember, the system that Datsun used is an adaptation of the Bosch system. Not everything that you read on the German and Italian cars applies.

Watch it again, the Z only raced heads up in the first race.

The Z lost. Albeit to a basically purpose built drag Monte Carlo.

I saw that a couple of years ago. There's really nothing there that's different from other info available such as Atlantic Z, etc.

1979 Datsun 280Z????