sblake01

Try adjusting the idle mixture at the AFM. You can try to do it by feel but I use an exhaust analyzer. I check that adjustment on both my EFI cars after a tune up and just before a smog check.

Yeah, you're already on my ignore list. This approach won't help you sell your car. It'll just annoy people.

Sounds to me like it's not tail lights/brakelights, as you say, but simply brakelights. In that case, Virto and zpizzaman20 have pointed you down the right path.

Well, I was just being kind of 'tongue-in-cheek'. My car is not original either. Nor would I want it to be. It was more a comment on waking up this three year old thread, asking for suggestions, putting down the answers, even though some of them have worked fine for the three years+ that the owners have had them, and then poo poo-ing a suggestion because it's not 'period correct'? In the words of Sherrif Andy Taylor, Tomohawk, "you beat everything, you know that?"

But a 'lights on reminder' is?

Right behind the Z, amongst the tool boxes!

I'm sure you meant to say 13/16".

I don't think this is at all like the other situation you allude to.

Sounds to me like zbane hit it right on the head. When I had that same problem in my 810 it turned out the be the electrical switch on the back of the ignition cylinder. Fairly easy fix.

He says he needs and air regulator or auxilary air valve as the rest of the industry calls them not and air flow meter.

Check for continuity. There should be none when the engine is cold and and it should increase to full continuity as the engine warms up.

I had a spirited agrument or two in the past with Carl, but we always discussed it and settled it off of the site. Like many others have said, my prayers are with him and he will be missed.

That's kind of what I was going to tell Tomohawk.

I was looking at this old post and I noticed that my description of what the auxiliary air regulator does was wrong. I doesn't add extra air to the mix, it bypasses the throttle plate which raises the idle speed. Maybe that's basically the same thing, however.

Addendum to the previous post: Search for part number 0 280 140 124. It's for a 1980-81 BMW 528i. I've had one on my car for years. It works fine. http://www.bavauto.com/shop.asp

I have a couple that work. Is your missing or just not working? PM me if you need it. Or if you want a new one try here. I know it's for a BMW but it works. We discussed that here in a thread a couple of years ago. http://www.bavauto.com/shop.asp

A 260 is set up differently than a 280.

Good call, Deadflo, if that works the problem will be isolated to the CSV and Thermotime switch.

Well, I guess that could happen but in the only one I ever had go bad did the opposite. That is the contact wouldn't close therefore I'd get no signal to the cold start valve regardless of themperature.

Possibly the ignition relay. It's located in the relay bracket in the passenger side footwell.

The thermotime switch get it's initial signal from the starter and only for 8-9 seconds and only if the engine is under certain temp. In other words, it only operates when you crank the starter.

I bought one of those from Antenna X and I really wasn't impressed. Seemed like something that you could just walk into any KragenPepZone and buy. It was for my 810 which also requires a semi auto antenna (on-off-on rocker switch). I finally did find an OEM antenna but I don't think they are the same as an early S30 antenna. The Maxima and the ZX both use fully automatic antennas(powered by your radio for up and the battery for down)