sblake01

From the Datsun dealer directory:

What is it that you're 'just sayin'?

Yeah it does look more like 'Manteca' then 'Monterey'.

Isn't that what it says on the O.P.'s scan?

It's one thing to ask that much for it and another to actually get it......and your 'well over a dozen' that sold in that range or higher probably weren't in the HLS30-60000+ vin range.

He say the York has been replaced with a compressor from an S130 so it's likely a Hitachi. That will make the system work a little better that the York. You could also use the condenser from an S130 as it's a little bigger than the ones they used with the York system. The 'Honda blower motor upgrade' also helps these systems. The major drawback of the York system is where the evaporator is mounted which is in the passenger footwell area. It will never be as efficient as a system with a center mounted evaporator.

Are you good with soldering and shrink wrapping? That's the best way to install the 'new' connectors rather than using crimp connectors. When I did mine, the solder and shrink warp was not visible because it was under the rubber boots.

They should be on all of the 280Z's, 280ZX's, and RWD Maximas in the junkyard. Both of my cars had them and I'm sure they help but I'm not convinced that you can't get the oil pan to seal without them.

The attachment in the first post looks familiar......

40343 P9500 is the part number if that's of any help.

You're looking for parts #31 and #36 in this scan:

I'm sure it will be fine. I had one like your old one in my Z and one like your new one in my 810. Neither of them ever gave me any problems.

Brand new really isn't important. It's a trubute to the way Bosch made them (I think it was Bosch), in that the ones I found in the junkyard on BMWs, Volvos, etc. were always in good shape and the ones on the Datsuns were cracked and brittle.

That appears be a scan of a late (77-78) 280Z relay bracket that would be located above the fuse box and transistor ignition unit in the passenger side kick panel of a U.S. model.

Besides the 6 for the injectors, get 4 more. 1 for the aux air regulator, 1 for the cold start valve, 1 for the thermotime switch, and one for the temp sensor. There is also a quick release 3 wire connector from one of the euro cars (I forget which I got it from) that can be used of the throttle postion switch.

Or punctuation in general, capitalization, etc........

I think he meant the trans.....

Mine is not only low profile enough for the Z (2 7/8" minimum heigth) but it worked for my 1600 roadster and presently works for my GTO. I can do transmissions with it also because I have an adapter that fits on the jack and actually adds to it's maximum height.

Don't care much for the aluminum jack most places sell. They try to capitalize on the preception of the 'Nascar' type but the real ones cost upwards of $600! I have a 2 1/2 ton heavy cast iron floor jack that I bought years ago at Harbor Freight. The only thing that has gone wrong with it was the handle spring broke and they sent me a new one free. Max lift on it is 22".

There are wire clips that hold the plugs on the injector. What kind of shape are your plugs in? Are they cracked/brittle? We've done a thread or two on replacing them with the 'quick release' connectors use on BMW's etc. Starting from about post # 10, read through this thread an also checkout the link in post # 10: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22929

Actually, 1974 was the first year for factory air in an S30 in the U.S. with the intro of the 260Z. There were also many with aftermarket or 'dealer installed' air like yours.

I've seen the car. It's not worth $850 even as a parts car. Bad motor, bad tranny (4spd), trashed interior, lots of rust, missing parts.....

He won't see your advice because, like I said, Gordon hasn't been here in quite a while. Don't even think he owns the Z anymore. I remember him because I sold him some wheels about 7 years ago.

We've done this a few times over the years so I won't post up my list again but I believe the Ranger and GTO are numbers 51 and 52 for me.

You have to fail by a certain amount to be consdered a gross polluter. You reached the gross polluter status based on your CO reading. Your HC, though failing, was below GP status. I concur with Montezuma. Those readings, in my experience would also lean towards a bad cat.