sblake01

Welcome. First of all, you're stepping on kjphilippona's thread. You should have posted you own thread in the member introductions forum. That being said, bring on your questions! (in the appropriate forum:))

Dragonetti Motors, Inc. 2745 El Camino Real San Mateo, Ca. 94403 (415) 349-4454

Okay, I get it. It's just that I don't consider a Scarab to be anything special beyond being a commercially produced Hybrid Z. (JMO)

If we take the 99 north when we go to visit my sister in law in Dublin, we go through there. But we've only done that once since taking the 5 north is much quicker...

You location says 'Woodstock'. As in the Woodstock of White Lake/Bethel/Max Yasgur's farm fame (August 15-18, 1969)? I was there!!

Shouldn't be a problem. If it was sealing with that 'gunk' in the system it shouldn't have a problem with clean fluid.

I had a 77-78 w/vented hood for 12+ years. There's a baffle under the vent on the side of the 77-78 hood that would matter. It's keeps water off the injectors and would keep water off the carbs. The other side was never a problem.

I went back to this old thread. It's in the third attachment in post #8: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29732 I still can't find my 1977 dealer directory that I mentioned in the thread.:mad:

From the Datsun dealer directory:

What is it that you're 'just sayin'?

Yeah it does look more like 'Manteca' then 'Monterey'.

Isn't that what it says on the O.P.'s scan?

It's one thing to ask that much for it and another to actually get it......and your 'well over a dozen' that sold in that range or higher probably weren't in the HLS30-60000+ vin range.

He say the York has been replaced with a compressor from an S130 so it's likely a Hitachi. That will make the system work a little better that the York. You could also use the condenser from an S130 as it's a little bigger than the ones they used with the York system. The 'Honda blower motor upgrade' also helps these systems. The major drawback of the York system is where the evaporator is mounted which is in the passenger footwell area. It will never be as efficient as a system with a center mounted evaporator.

Are you good with soldering and shrink wrapping? That's the best way to install the 'new' connectors rather than using crimp connectors. When I did mine, the solder and shrink warp was not visible because it was under the rubber boots.

They should be on all of the 280Z's, 280ZX's, and RWD Maximas in the junkyard. Both of my cars had them and I'm sure they help but I'm not convinced that you can't get the oil pan to seal without them.

The attachment in the first post looks familiar......

40343 P9500 is the part number if that's of any help.

You're looking for parts #31 and #36 in this scan:

I'm sure it will be fine. I had one like your old one in my Z and one like your new one in my 810. Neither of them ever gave me any problems.

Brand new really isn't important. It's a trubute to the way Bosch made them (I think it was Bosch), in that the ones I found in the junkyard on BMWs, Volvos, etc. were always in good shape and the ones on the Datsuns were cracked and brittle.

That appears be a scan of a late (77-78) 280Z relay bracket that would be located above the fuse box and transistor ignition unit in the passenger side kick panel of a U.S. model.

Besides the 6 for the injectors, get 4 more. 1 for the aux air regulator, 1 for the cold start valve, 1 for the thermotime switch, and one for the temp sensor. There is also a quick release 3 wire connector from one of the euro cars (I forget which I got it from) that can be used of the throttle postion switch.

Or punctuation in general, capitalization, etc........

I think he meant the trans.....