Everything posted by sblake01
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won't start
Never heard of 'bleeding' the fuel injection system and I've been working on them for over ten years now. The system is self priming. How do you know that the fuel pump is bad? There are other things in the system that would keep it from working. Does the fuel pump run when you turn the key to the on position?
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Pictures of Center Consoles?
I think that my you misunderstood my post. That console shows no lid. Did your 77 not have a lid? My 78 does and so does my friends 77. The dates and descriptions I posted came straight from the Z Car microfiche.
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Inspection Lid bumpers & rubbers ???
I think he said 2' x 1/2"-that would be the piece that is used on 73 and up cars that have the lip on the radiator support. (Thank's, Carl for setting me straight on that one)
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Need help finds fuel sending unit for my 280Z
IIRC, because I did that job a couple of years ago, Parts America or Kragen as it is on the west coast only has the one for cars that have factory air.
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Pictures of Center Consoles?
Kind of hard to pin it down but it's definiltely not a 77-78. There are three consoles the second picture could be. 8/73-7-75, 8/75-7/76 (standard) or 8/75-7/76 (automatic). 77-78 are the only ones that came with a lid although a lot of the earlier ones were fitted with dealer add on or aftermarket lids.
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Inspection Lid bumpers & rubbers ???
Hey DatsunZGuy: Did you know that you live in the home of the cartoon character 'Roger Ramjet?' Bet you're not old enough to remember that.
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Inspection Lid bumpers & rubbers ???
I don't think the 240Z has the one on the edge of the radiator support. IIRC they don't even have the raised lip there where it would be on a 280Z. Many places will steam clean your engine and bay. Commercial/industrial cleaning businesses, auto detailers, etc. Look up steam cleaning in the phone book.
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A/C for '73, factory or dealer installed?
Wasn't the cost a large consideration when Nissan started building cars for the US? If I recall correctly the base price here was $3526 when the 240Z was introduced here in 1969. Optioning them out with things like a/c, power steering, etc. surely would have raised the selling price.
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heart broken.
:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
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A/C for '73, factory or dealer installed?
Well Alan, I don't know what to say either other than I've never seen a LHD S30 with the blower motor on the left. I must be dyselxic because I didn't notice the blower motor was on the left in your earlier scan. I was looking at the other components in the system. As far as the other scans, the one that is post July/August 73 has me confused. Here is one from one of my manuals that depicts the system in a 1974 US LHD 260Z.
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A/C for '73, factory or dealer installed?
Alan, I don't see why that system wouldn't have worked on LHD cars. I doesn't appear that anything from the system is in the footwells nor would it interfere with the steering column regardless of what side it was on. It looks rather similar to the system that they started using here in 1974.
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A/C for '73, factory or dealer installed?
I can't speak for the aftermarket systems on the early S30 but my 78 has an aftermarket system with a center mounted evaporator. And like the factory systems in the 74-78 S30, the blower does blow through the evaporator. I use R414B which is knows in the trade as 'Hotshot' and my system will actually reach as low as 34 degrees at the center vents. It gets pretty hot here in So Cal too and I have had no overheating problems in either of my cars. The main thing is to get rid of the upright compressor, make sure you have a good fan, make sure everything is sealed like where the evap vents into the system and where the ducts connect. I wouldn't suggest converting the old systems (factory or aftermarket) to R134A. It runs at to high a pressure and will eventually kill the system. Might not be easy for the average Joe to get some of the R12 replacements, but like I said I'm EPA certified and can buy any kind of refrigerant. Through experimentation, I've settled on Hotshot since it doesn't cause and pressure related problems and both cars have been trouble free for over three years now.
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A/C for '73, factory or dealer installed?
Yeah, that's an aftemarket control. Thanks.
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A/C for '73, factory or dealer installed?
That's aftermarket. The main giveaway is the barrier hoses with clamps rather than machined hoses for the high and low side lines. Also the Sankyo compressor is aftermarket and they are still available today under the name Sanden. They bought out Sankyo some time back. That's a nice install compared to the usual York system that was so commonly used back then. The evaporator box does look almost 'factory'. The best way to take care of the hole that will be left when you remove the evaporator box would be to go the junkyard and get another blower motor housing. Thanks for the pictures Pete and Adam. I have added them to my early Z a/c research folder. Pete, can you post a picture of the control on your dash?
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A/C for '73, factory or dealer installed?
As for your other question, Garth, the only thing that made me think that it could be factory was the location of his evaporator box. But then when I thought about it, it's the 810s and the Maximas that have the box in the passenger footwell. Good call Moonpup, I guess we both missed that. I'm going to be quiet now until I see some pictures.:stupid:
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A/C for '73, factory or dealer installed?
Garth I apologize. Everything I've ever read says no ac until the advent of the 260z but I had heard somewhere that a small number were put on late 73 toward the end of that model run. I'd never actually seen one but I thought his could possibly be one of the rumoured 73s with factor air. Further research tell me that it could be a clever aftermarket install using factory parts becuse his evaporator box in the wrong place for a factory S30 system from any year (74-78). On the other point, we just had different concepts of what holes he was talking about sealing.
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A/C for '73, factory or dealer installed?
You have just described a factory system, regardless of what Garth says. (No offense) The 'coke can' is the receiver/drier and the 'how-ya-doin' is the evaporator box. It will come out but you'll have to seal the opening where it sends the cold air into the heater box. I'll post a picture in a couple of minutes. BTW, and I know I've mentioned it here on this site before, I'm a EPA certified MVAC tech. EDIT: After checking my research materials, if your evaporator box is in the passenger footwell then sombody did a really nice install because that is the later 810-Maxima-ZX system. The early cars had the evap box behind the heater control panel in the middle of the dash. Now I'd really like to see some pictures!
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A/C for '73, factory or dealer installed?
Sounded to me like he was talking about the high side and low side hoses that run through the firewall from the compressor and the rec/drier to the evaporator. The only thing that runs through them is freon.
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holley carbs help!!!
When you say 'Holley carbs' are you referring to a single four barrel or do you actually mean Weber DGV carbs as you did say plural. EDIT: If they acually are Holleys, such as Holley 5200 (Pinto carbs) I would definately suggest switching back to SUs.
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A/C for '73, factory or dealer installed?
You won't have to seal up anything since those hoses run into the a/c evaporator. I'd like to see some pictures of the system but it sounds like you're removing it. The 'little black cannister' is the reciever/drier and what I think you refer to as the 'cooling radiator' is the condenser. If it is indeed a factory system, why don't you repair it? I had actually read somewhere where some factory systems did appear on some late 73's.
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This switch is a bitch
marcia500, are any of these the item you're looking for? #1 is a 'thermal transmitter'. It sends the signal to the temperature guage. I don't think that's the one you want. #2 is the 'thremal switch' which is similar to what Fredzed was looking for when he initiated this post, but it's the 2 prong US version rather than the 3 prong Canadian version. #3 I don't know the name of but your description makes me think it's the item your're looking for. I recall that it came from a ZX parts car and it's an item not used on my 78 280Z or my 79 810. I sent your husband an email with the same picture.
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78 280z - Santa Barbara Ca.
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240K Coupe Spare Parts
We have Skylines in the US. Datsun/Nissan never imported them here, however. People bring them in. I see them at the So Cal Import shows and at the Datsun shows. In fact, I've seen more Skylines than I've seen 810s.
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Copper/Brass vs Aluminum rad
I only mentioned the plastic tanks to say that when they develop a leak between the tank and the core, it means replacement rather than repair. 200,000 mi. is great service for a radiator. At 160,000 mi. I was able to get my Cu/Br radiator rodded out and re soldered for $60 and it works as good as new. Better maintainence by the PO might have made mine last longer.
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Which year 280z S30 would you recommend?
Actually, and I have somewhat reasearched this over the years, the 77 and 78 are virtually identical. Both rated at 170 hp, both have the hood vents, both have two fusibile link covers instead of one like the 75-76, and the five speed had become an option for both years. The only real difference I could find is the style of the 5 speed emblem on the hatch. We discussed that in another thread. The 78 doesn't have more smog stuff that the 77; that came later with the ZX's. I would lean toward a 77-78 over a 75-76 since Nissan had a couple more years to work the bugs out. Plus the 78 is the last of the S30's as Vicky mentioned. The EFI system is really not all that mysterious. The secret is to have a lot of spare parts like I have collected over the years. I have two cars with that system if you include my 810 and have gained lots of practical knowlege on them over the years. There is still a lot of useful info available on troubleshooting the EFI. My 78 Z was a realiable daily driver when I used it as one. My 79 810 has been a reliable daily driver for almost 3 years. The only problem I've had with it in that time was a fuel pump problem that turned out to be the check valve rather than the fuel pump itself. Easy fix.