sblake01

I was looking throught some old parts and stuff trying to find a fuel pump check valve for wm_e_smith and I came across this. The number in the lower right corner is most likely the VIN for the 70 240Z I once owned about 35 years ago! Wouldn't that be a 69 build date? If I only knew then what I know now. EDIT: I just look at the list on Carl's site and that number is amongst the ones that haven't been found.

Well, I went through my stuff and found a couple of good check valves. Let me know if you want one.

I think you might be looking for wal280z's wiring diagram: http://www.classiczcars.com/downloads/F77ZCAR-WIRING.pdf

I think we need to just leave that seller in his own dream world.

I have a mehcanic's stethoscope and I doubt if anyone would ever accuse me of having too much money. They are invaluable when it comes to listening to fuel injectors. You can hear the sound of them opening and closing, or if they're not. Also, with a stethoscope, rather than a screwdriver, you can discern weak vs. normal sounds like a clogged injector which won't sound as loud as a properly operating injector.

We can debate this forever. I think if you already have SUs, keep them. Depending upon how the conversion was done, you may have a lot of parts to source. Expensive little parts that are diminishing in supply. You can't really make the statement that 'SUs give you HP' usless you are unimformed (or 12 yrs old). Many factors are involved there.

It's head and shoulders above the Haynes manual. I details test procedures for relays, switches, and sensors, and has many other things not covered in the Haynes. If you ever see the Clymer Datsun 810 1977-1980 shop manual it's also worth having but the Nissan book is the best. I have always prefered Clymer and Chiltons over Haynes.

FSM=Factory Service Manual. They're not available any longer through Nissan. I got mine on eBay. I also have the Haynes (810/Maxima 77-84) but I don't use it because as you say it can be somewhat vague. To check the fuel pressure, remove the hose from the top of the fuel filter and connect a pressure gauage between the fuel filter and that hose. I made my guage with parts from the hardware store. The manual says 36.3 psi but I've always used the 36-38psi range as acceptable. Once that pressure is established (should be instant upon start up) it should remain when the engine is turned off. If not the pressure is bleeding down genereally due to a bad check valve. Worst case scenario be a bad diaphragm in the fuel pump but then the running pressure would also be low. Here's a 1978 FSM on eBay right now. There's a couple of others but this is about as much as I'd pay for one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1978-78-Datsun-810-Shop-Service-Repair-Manual-orig_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6762QQitemZ7984825958QQrdZ1

Perky ti....oh never mind.

The check valve should come with the new fuel pump. But like I said, you might only need to change the check valve rather than the entire pump. I'd try that first. Its simpler than changing the pump. Just pull the outlet hose, some fuel will leak but not much especially if the check valve is bad, remove the check valve (14mm open end wrench), don't lose the copper washer that's between the check valve and the fuel pump, replace the check valve, put the hose back on, and you're done. If it works, problem solved. Very little expense.

The 1978 280Z and the 1979 810 and a 1981 200SX are the only cars I've owned with this system. They all have fuel pressure regulators. The 280 and the 810 are exactly the same and the 200 was similar. Not one of the three of them ever had a fuel pressure regulator fail during my ownership. Check your fuel pressure. The procedure is outlined in the FSM. If it is satisfactory, about 36-38 psi if I recall correctly, while the car is running, then your fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, etc. are okay. When you turn the engine off and that fuel pressure drops then your check valve is bad. Under normal conditions, with all components functioning properly, the system will hold the pressure. That's why you have to release the pressure before you remove any of the fuel hoses or the fuel will spray until the pressure releases itself.

Actually, the check valve itself can be changed. It's located in the outlet which screws in to the side of the fuel pump. When it is working proprely it will hold the fuel pressure. If not the pressure has to build up before the engine will start. I had that problem on my Z and solved it by simply changing the check valve. If you fuel pressure checks out okay, then I would suggest trying this. I pulled my 'new' check vave from a ZX in the junkyard. Four years ago. The problem has not reoccured since. I don't know if you can buy them seperately. The Nissan part number is 17014-N4225. If you have trouble finding one, let me know. I probably have one somewhere amongst my spare parts. It'll take me awhile to find it but when I do, it's yours for the cost of postage if you need it.

You never mentioned that before. Is the car ever really hard to start when it's warmed up to operating temperature and you stop say to run into a convience store and come right out to try to start it? If so, you probably have a bad fuel pump check valve. Oh, and I don't think the distributor would be an issue.

Here's the other scan. This one shows the cylinder head side of the manifold.

I'll see what I can come up with. I think I have every one of those catalogs including the ones from when they were called the Datsun Competition Department.

Actually the GX setup was available here in the US form Nissan Motorsports. It used the 38mm flat tops which are not smog carbs. This is a scan from one of my old Nissan Competition Parts catalogues. Doesn't really answer your question but that setup was once available here.

I knew what you were saying. I was just being obtuse. :cheeky:

Now you're starting to confuse me and my car runs good! :classic:

I also have a USA 810 (79). To test that theory I just pulled the connector from my oil pressure switch. The car started and continued to run so I would say the answer to that question is no.

Looking at my old Beck Arnley catalog, all I can deduce is that they are all rear kits up to 6/72. Though the cylinders themselves would be different left or right, the kits will work on either side. The 2984 number shows as a Tokico repair kit left or right to 6/72. 7/72 up shows a different number (3008)

Sounds like you have no pcv valve then. If there's no provision on your intake for one I don't know where it would go. My car is stock (basically) so it has the stock pcv setup. Since yours is not hooked up, there's no way it could be forcing oil into the combustion chamber as surmised above. Maybe someone else with experience with aftermarket manifolds will chime in.

If you mean the pipe that's in the block just ahead of the exhaust maniford, a hose goes from there to the pcv valve on the bottom of the intake manifold. Now I'm talking about a 280Z since that's what I have but the 240 is similar as shown in this scan.

Chris, I hope you don't think I was 'attacking' you in my earlier post. None of us are experts here, at least I don't consider myself one but we've gained quite a bit of knowledge over the years. That's what we're here for, don't be afraid to ask questions, even if they've been asked before. I might ocaisionally come off as harsh with an answer to a question but I guess it's because I figure if I know the answer then it can't be that complicated because I'm no mechanic by any means. Bud I did have to learn somewhere and I guess I sometimes forget how that is since it's been so many years since I started dealing with cars. Hang in there, the car will run again, and you'll be better off for the knowledge you gain by doing it yourself.

What did you get?

I think that's from a rap song.