sblake01

Bottom line: fusible link is dry rotted-replace it and others that are bad and go on from there.

If the MSA louver is like mine, it will have mouts that slide under the window seal and mount with adhesive and the louver mounts on them. No drilling. Mine was a dealer installed item according to the PO.

Randy, as I said, there is one between the alternator and the battery. If that link is blown, you would have charging problems. If they have nothing to do with the car losing power, as you say, then unplug them and see if it runs.

I use a chain hoist with a tilt/level assembly bolted through a braced 6 x 12 main beam which is a good 12 ft from the ground at the point where it's mounted as my house has cathedral or vaulted cielings, whatever you prefer to call them.

It's $89.98 at nismoparts.com

Just what you need, Bill, three more Z's! Soon you'll be able to take over Keith's screen name. (2manyZs) :classic:

Get the correct part number and try http://www.nismoparts.com. They pull from several Nissan dealers. I got a a/c expansion valve for a 1979 810 from them when no one else could find it. If anyone can get it, they can. EDIT: The part number for a 70 240Z speedo cable according to the a customer service rep at nismo is B5050-N4701

We 280Z owners are probably the least confused members on this site as far as our cars go since we don't have to deal with as many variations of our cars as the 240Z owners. The picture was beginning to clear up a bit by the time of the introduction of the 280Z but I'm afraid that there will always be myths, confusion, heresay, outright untruths, differing viewpoints, etc. when it comes to the history of the earlier cars. Not just Z's but early Datsun/Nissan cars in general.

Well it's really simple. The power comes to the thermotime switch from the ign switch, through the ign relay. The thermotime switch is basically another temperature sensor with a heating coil in it and it will only be closed for 8 seconds and that's if the temperature is low enough. I the temp is low enough, the thermotime swich completes the ground. From there, the signal goes to the cold start valve, completing the ground, and injecting the extra fuel needed for a cold start. I tested this theory morning at 6:30am by temporarily switching the leads on my 810 and it started right up.

First of all, if you have a 79, it's a 280ZX not a 280Z. I can't tell you much about the fusible links on it because I don't know much about the electronics in a ZX. Your scenario makes sense, however, as one of the links on a 280Z is directly between the alternator and the battery and there probably would be some similarity to the ZX system.

I used the JC Whitney door seal material on my 320. Try finding the original ones for that! I know it's not a Z but I installed them in 1994 and they still don't leak. Like Gary says, I have to close them firmly, even after 11 years, but I don't have to slam them.

It wasn't me! I never said anything about door handles.

Or if this was real, he might have even been a member here!

They had a big OHV inline 6. It was known as the 'P' engine. 4 liter torquey low compression engine with more stroke than bore. They may have had other engines but the ones that were here in the US (61-69) had that one.

No, you didn't ruin it. I think the writers of the show beat you to that! After watching it from beginning to end finally, since I had previously only scanned it for the Z scenes, the Z might have been the best part. I was only mildly impressed with the story line especially following CSI. Oh, and I don't drive my Z or my 320 in the rain. That's what daily drivers are for.

If you view the thermotime switch connector from the front with the open part of the clip facing downwards, the wire on the left goes to the female plug and the one on the right goes to the male plug. As far as removing the contacts once they're inserted, I wouldn't know the answer to that because mine already had wires in them so I cut the old connectors off and soldered and heat shrinked the new ones on. I don't consider your question trivial at all. It took a while to come up with a definitive answer. I tried to check the wires on both my cars but since they were wrapped, there wasn't a way to see which wire ended up where. The scan is taken from the 'EFI Bible'. EDIT: After thinking about this, would it really matter where the wires go on the connector since all they seem to do is complete a ground when the switch is closed?

Here's a brochure picture of a Nissan Patrol.

I recorded it last night and scanned through it this morning. There were only the two sequences that showed the Z, correct? The beginning scenes and the scenes where they pulled his friend over. I also think that the inside of the car footage was shot in a different car. Even without the Z, this seem like a pretty good show though it's past my bedtime since it comes on a 10PM on the west coast.

My US 78 280 has them as well as my 810.

The engine number isn't on the fender tag in my 78 nor could I find it anywhere on the car other than on the engine. But it is on the 'Datsun Guarantee Card' that was amongst the paper work I got from the original owner. Mine matches!

Fun in my Z is Bill R.

That sounds like the factory system. If so, they can work well as does the system in my 810. If it has a blower to the right of the evaporator which blows through the evap housing and into the center vent which has two hoses that branch out to the side vents. that that's the factory system. It would have a blower motor designed for a heating/ac system. The dealer installed system uses the standard heater motor and the evap sits above the heater core in a housing designed for that application (74-78). Both systems will cool the car more than adequately. I have the dealer system in my Z and the factory system in my 810. They both cool very well. The Vintage Air system, IIRC, has it's own blower motor. I don't have any experience with a V A system in a Z. But the Vintage Air system in my nephew's Chevelle works very well also.

I have the dealer option system in my 78. It does perform well IMO. The 74-78 dealer option system is different from the 70-73 system. The 74-78 system uses a Sankyo SD 508 compressor which is basically the same as the Sanden SD 508 that the Vintage Air system uses. Sanden bought out Sankyo sometime back. The early system (70-73) does have it's drawbacks as Carl points out earlier in this thread. It's more of a 'hack job' appearance wise than the later dealer installed system. I'm a MVAC tech and have been able to make that old York system work fairly well so I'm not quite as down on it as most people. In a 70-73 I'd say that Vintage Air or sometning along those lines would be the way to go. I have no experience with it in a Z but my nephews 66 Chevelle has Vintage air and it will freeze you out. As far as non-factory systems in the 74-78 cars, which I notice you have in your signature, like I said, I have the 'dealer installed' system in my 78 and it gets down to 35 degrees at the center vent. It didn't work well when I got the car, cool but not cold, but all I did was replace the hoses, the receiver/drier, flush and vaccum the system and charge it with R414B, a direct reaplacement for R12 which requires no changes it the system. It's been working fine ever since. Due the politics in the refrigerant industry, R414B, sometimes known as Hotshot, is recognized as a direct replacement for R12 for everthing except mobile air conditioning. It's tough to find a shop that will charge your system with it but since I'm a tech I have access to it.

In my 810 which has factory air, the evaporator is on the right which makes it real easy to remove. I was able to buy new components for that car for less than 400 bucks thanks to OEM surplus (compressor and evaporsator), Standard Air Products (receiver/drier), Master Auto Parts (condensor), and Nismoparts.com (expansion valve).

The early systems have the hose fittings on the right side of the condensor. The later aftermarket systems have the fittings on the left of the condersor, the receiver/drier on the left side, and the evaporator in the center of the car behind the heater control panel. The ones with factory air have everything on the right except for the compressor with hard lines that go accross the radiator support to the rec/drier and evaporator.