sblake01

Can't see his posts anymore (ignore list). Dude's got issues!

The look would depend on the shop that installed them. Do they have the upright type "Yorx" compressor? (Chris and Ian)

How did they arrive at the diagnosis that the FPR was bad? Did they run a pressure test? I only ask because I've been around these cars for a while now and haven't ever seen a FPR go bad. It's a fairly simple device with no electronics. For flooding, I'd first check the thermotime swich and cold start valve. Then I'd look into a possible leaky injector or two.

Does your 73 have an add on type system (with barrier type hoses over barbs with clamps) or a factory type system with finished type hoses with fittings with machine crimped ends and hard lines to the evap, rec/drier, condedser etc.?

It's a great feeling to be right. (It would have been an even better feeling had I known that I was!) :surprised

Tomo, I just checked my 78 with a flashlight and there are no areas behind the wheel wells that are 'open to the air'. There is a rubber grommet on one side where the antenna drain comes through and two rubber grommets on the other side where the gas filler and the hose to the expansion tank go. They all seal well as I replaced the two smaller ones in 1999. I checked underneath and inside, no areas that are open to the air.

As Ed indicates, more info is needed, especially with a fuel injected cars. Black smoke can also be a fuel rich condition. Does it start easily when cold? Does it start easily when warm? How does it run/idle?

Tough question. You said 'factory dealer installed'. 70-73 Zs never came with factory installed AC. Factory air began in 74 with the advent of the 260Z. Dealer installed air was available on the earlier cars. Since it was 'dealer installed' which actually meant that it was sent out to a local AC shop, it would be hard to place a number on how many cars had this done since it was a random kind of thing. I'm going to add this edit here: My information is based on what I have learned about the USA market cars. If someone knows different about the non-USA cars please chime in.

I meant to pose this statement as a question. And thanks to Ron and Brian it has been answered.

Do you mean HS30-H?

Thanks, Ricklandia, I was going to answer xray until I read your post. I forgot to mention the garage thing. I guess I kind of took that for granted. I believe that is was Sleepy-Z who mentioned a 12 mile commute? I don't know which company he has his collector insurance through but with Hagerty, you can't use your car to commute.

I know what I said and it still wasn't directed at the author of this thread. You say one should ignore threads or subjects that you don't like that should also apply to opinions. I wasn't apologizing for the content of my post. Just for the fact that he may have taken it personally, which was not my intent.

That's what I used to change my clutch. I have two sets of 3 ton stands. Have had them for years and never had a problem.

The BRE cars used the 432R spoiler, so, in reality there really is no such thing as a BRE spoiler.

He did ask for opinions. Well actually he stated his preference and I stated mine. As did others, pro and con. I don't see anything wrong or personal with that.

As you can probably tell, so am I. But for different reasons evidentally.

Again, I apologize to you. My response wasn't directed a you specifically. Just the topic in general. I guess I need to realize that I was once new to all of this myself.

Hagerty is a specialty provider. I have their insurance on my Z and my 320. There are certain restrictions on how the car can be used. You can't drive to work or to school on a regular basis, etc. You must have a non collector car also on a regular policy with a regular insurance company in order to have their in order to have Hagerty's insurance on your collector car or cars. It's bascally for pleasure driving, shows, etc. Some of the major companies offer collector car insurance but it is usually through some subsidiary of theirs and after comparison, I came to the conlcusion that Hagerty is the best of it's type at least for me.

He got his help though the search function might have more helpful. But he also got opinions. It gets rather tedious seeing new threads that have been covered ad nauseum. When opinions cease to be accepted for whatever thery're worth here, I'm gone. We'd be left with theories about accleration vs time, photoshop crap, needless "what if" type questions, etc. Think of how many knowlegable people have already left this site because of those types of things.

Vicky, it's too bad your post wasn't before mine. It would have put me in better humour and I probably would have eased up a bit. Sorry guys and gals.

I am so sick of hearing about 240 bumpers on a 280. Whoever wants to do it should do it. This is just my opinion and I have said it before, if you wanted a 240 you should have bought a 240. The bumpers are part of what makes a 280 a 280. So you take a few pounds off and have what you think is a cleaner look, but it's still a 280 (or late 260). This gist of this thread has come up so many times as Lance has given us one three year old example, and we've had to suffer through 'what's your opinion of 240 bumpers on a 280' that you'd think someone has figured out how to do it and not put us through this same dance everytime someone gets this wild 'ugly bumper' hair up their a$$. While you're at it you might as well replace the fuel injection with carbs (Z Therapy, of course), remove the air conditioning, put the tool box lids on, change the front turn signals, and taillights, ......................... Sorry to catch you up in my rant, HDC, but many have preceded you!

When you jump the starter, the ign key must be in the on position if you want it to start. I use a remote starter switch instead of a screwdriver, however. I don't understand 'turns over but won't crank' (in your earlier post). Turns over but won't start? I'm not sure about the wires unhooked at the ign switch, they may just be for the 'key in' and 'seat belt' buzzers like someone already said, but those wires unhooked at the battery kind of worry me. You really need to check out a wiring diagram. I don't have one for a 76 but there is one in that book in the link I posted earlier if I reacall correctly.

In #1 that is a fusible link. You need to replace it rather than just solder it or whatever. #2 is the vaccum bottle for your mode door actuator which is for the ac/heater. #3 is a ground wire that should go into on of those wrapped group of wires, at least is does on my car. #4 and #5 I don't have an answer for. But you're right, the PO left you a mess. Maybe this will help. It's the sevice bulletin for the introduction of the 1976 280Z. You need and Acrobat reader and it takes a while to load if you have dial up. There are a couple of charts in the electrical section that may be of some use to you. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/76sb/1976_280z_S30_Service_Bulletin.pdf

I wondered that also since yours and mine are already posted. :eek:

What year did Datsun go to the 100000 mile digit on the speedo? Or the 17 digit VIN? All of the services like Carfax seem to require a 17 digit VIN. My 78 and 79 have neither.