sblake01

I replaced my connectors without removing the fuel rail.

I answered that in my post earlier. The air regulator allows more air into the intake during warm up. That raises the idle. As the engine warms, the flap in the air regulator closes and the idle goes down to normal. The cold start valve doesn't do anything to the idle. It just injects fuel to help start the engine while cold. Under 35 degrees C if I recall correctly. The thermotime switch will only operate for 8 seconds max and the signal stops when you stop cranking the starter. It's all covered in the book in the link.

The idle speed should be higher when it's cold. If you're not getting that, check your air regulator. I'm going to give you the same link that I gave in the other thread. The 280Z Fuel Injection Book. It will answer a lot of questions you'll come across and even though it's more geared to 77-78 it will still quite helpful. http://www.72hours.net/~zcar/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf.

I've never heard of a damper going bad. I'm going to give you this link. It's the 280Z Fuel Injection Book. It will answer a lot of your questions. You'll need an Acrobat reader and if you have dial up.....well it's over 70 pages. Save it to your computer. It'll answer a lot of your questions. http://www.72hours.net/~zcar/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf

It's mounted on the fuel pump with a bracket that looks like a small motor mount.

Those look like the same ones. Except he paid $12 ea. for his and I paid $5 for about 30-35 of them at the junkyard. I got them from mid to late 80s BMW 6 cyl cars. Whatever material they are made from is superior to what Nissan used because I've never seen a cracked one in the junkyard. And though they are not 25+ years old like the original ones on our cars they are still 15+ years old. Every one I pulled simply needed a minor cleaning and the terminals were always clean.

If I were you, Kent, I would take Leon up on his offer, just in case.

If you blow though one side you should get resistance, blow through the other side and air should flow freely. It's metal with no glass. Look at the attachment. If someone replaced the damper with a filter, I would put a damper back in it's place. People have been known to add an additional fuel filter by the tank along with the damper. I personally don't think you need one back there (a filter).

Unless you are strictly going for originality, it doesn't really matter as long as you get the correct size.

To me, it doesn't.

The flow needs that restriction so that the coolant doesn't move too quickly through the radiator to be properly cooled. (you'll see that in the thread)

When did you remove the thermostat? Did you have a cooling problem before you removed it? There is a recent thread about thermostats and what temperature they should be. We kind of disagreed on that point but the consesus is that you do need to have one in order for the engine to properly cool. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18373

I guess it depends on the store. The Napa I used to deal with in Ontario, Ca,, when I lived in Fontana, was very knowledgable. And on top of that, they are one of the west coast warehouses so if they didn't have it in the store it was back in one of the stockrooms.

I just use a remote starter switch. Always worked for me.

That's exactly I have been reluctant to get into this thread. A modified anything should be able to outpreform a stock car. I can strip everything out of my 280 that's not necessary, build the snot out of it and be as fast as a lot of things out there including most 240Zs. And the point would be? We're no longer talking about stock vs. stock and I'm no longer talking about this topic. Once again, peace, out! (this time for real)

I don't know about that rumour. The new Mustang (or Z for that matter) is not aimed at the same market that would buy collector type cars. No, I doubt that a 1966 GT Fastback with a K motor would cost any less to buy than it did before the debut of the new Mustang.

As far as the AC thing, you might be low on freon which ususally indicates a leak somewhere in the system. If you have factory air, you have a pressure switch on the receiver/drier that won't allow the clutch to engage if the high side pressure is too low. The plug on the cold start vavle will only get 'juice' when the thermotime switch sends it a signal during cold cranking so check your thermotime switch. But as to the headlights, you've got me stumped since you've already checked everyting I would have suggested.

I don't see them having much trouble selling those! 177 hp with the modern rating vs 151 with the 1970 type of rating, 20-28 mpg. The base model would have no trouble smoking a stock 240 (sorry, but true). Under 22k with all the goodies, a 235 hp option? But I'll still stick to my old Datsuns. But, wait, my wife's Infiniti is getting up there in age.......... :devious:

I'm not sure which transmission the 240K uses but in my manual which has the 3N71B it also states 5.5L. It also says that approximately 2.7L of that goes in the torque converter. Unless you power flushed the trans, your torque converter still had fluid in it and that is why the trans wouldn't take the full 5.5L. This is taken directly from my service manual. Remember this is for a 1978 USA 280Z with a 3N71B automatic trans: In this instruction, they seem to use the word 'oil' to also mean trans fluid. Hope this helps.

That would also work but I just like the fact that with soldering and heat shrink tubing, I was able to hide the repairs under the rubber boots. It's a much cleaner look. (Hey, this is post #2000 for me!)

I have also owned both. I had told myself that I would ignore this thread since it's been done to death but I couldn't ignore the '280 had a lot more zip' comment. Must have been the cars you were driving. I own a 280 and it's in as good running condition as most basically stock ones you will find. But I also owned a 70 and a 72 in the past and as far as 'zip' goes I would take either of my former 240Zs over the 280. As far as ease of operation, however, I'll keep the 280. But, leave the bumpers alone, they are, as I have said before, part of what makes a 280 a 280. If you want a 240, buy a 240. Trying to create that 240 feel with a 280 will only leave you wishing you'd done that in the first place. Peace, out.

I always felt that that type of wheel looked more at home on a mini truck in the 80s. In fact, I had them on my mini truck in the 80s! But if you like them, as ZfanNtexas says, that's all that really matters. IMO they're kind of neutral. I don't think they detract from the look they just don't add to it.

Staring bid is about $4560.00 USD

No, they dont get air locked. And there is no need to bleed them since the system is self priming. When you say 'inline fuel filter' do you mean the fuel damper? Thats not a filter. It's there to supress the pulsation in the fuel flow. The only filter back there is the small screen in the fuel pump outlet.

Just like we eventually did with Chloe, I think we should leave the Bambikiller situation like it is. It would serve no real purpose to seek him out and start bugging him. He had his reasons for leaving, he is okay and I doubt if he will be back. And, as per his request, that is all I will say. So, let it rest.