sblake01

Actually, like we talked about earlier in this thread, your oil pump shaft/distributor alignment is off. If it runs this way, and you can proprely set the timing, I would leave it there. I just don't know if the timing mark show proprely with that type of arrangememt. A locksmith can fix that key lock. You'll have to remove it and take it to him with the key. It's kind of a pain to remove if it's never been out because of the two security screws. I always replace them with regular screws when I reinstall.

Oh, I wasn't confused. I've had some expericence with setting up the distributor/oil pump confirguration on both the L4's and L6's. The principle is basically the same. I don't see, however, how you get more advance by moving it around to your present setup. Oh well, maybe that's just a trick that I am not aware of. I just hope Chickenwafer gets squared away. Now his situation is confusing.

Hello from you rims previous owner! I read this yesterday and was going to suggest fusible links since I had had a similar problem in my car and that is what cured it. But I was unsure of what you had changed on your car with all the mods. Sometimes it's hard to just go to the book and do standard troubleshooting when things have been modified. I go through that routine with my 64 L320 since very little in that vehicle's electrical system even resembles stock.

Well, it ought to be fast if that's what he's after. I'm really not a hybrid fan but I do appreciate one that's done right. Like the silver one that belongs to the guy in the Absolute Z club. I wouldn't mind viewing pictures and text on that one. Of course, you'll probably get statements here to the effect of 'that belongs on HybridZ.' And to a large extent, I would agree.

Read the claims the guy is making in order to sell this car. There are some things he names that I don't even believe are available for a Z. And if I had spent the kind on money that these supposed mods would require, I would have all of the paper work readily available. I can't see any possible reason to defend either the car or the seller. Wouldn't be a good street car, wouldn't be a good strip car. Just another eBay attempt to sell a partially finished vehicle that the seller is either unhappy with or in over his head, or some degree of both.

Your oil pump shaft had definately been moved. But if you start at your #1 the firing order is still correct.

You can't just remove the clutch pedal arm. You need to get the whole clutch and brake pedal assembly.

Just went through Camarillo last week with my wife. That's a pretty good trek from Long Beach!

Pull a the #1 spark plug, bring the piston up to tdc. Your rotor should point at #1. If that position is off from the diagram (Carl's Picture) then your oil pump shaft is not properly positioned. I once bought a 510 with that problem for $200 because he couldn't get it to run. I got it home and 20 minutes later it was running like a charm!

Rust on the steering wheel screws is always a nice touch.

I just can't get past the statememt 'running fine with only three cylinders working properly.'

It has it's tedious moments, but if you take your time, it's not that bad. I changed other things while I was in there. Water pump, thermostat, radiator hoses, belts, and the 4 small hoses (2 that connect under the air regulator, one that goes into the water neck, and the one on the other side of the block that t's off of the heater hose). Now, those four small hoses were a pain!

Yeah, I saw that but wasn't going to comment. This thread is odd because you can't change your firing order by simply changing the wires around. Period! Not and have the engine run correctly. The old windsor block Ford V8s had a problem in high performace applications because the first two cylinders to fire are 1-5. If you know Fords that would be the first two cylinders on either bank. At high rpm that would really beat on the crank. Ford had a kit which included the crankshaft, camshaft and I don't remember what else but the kit was designed to even out the firing order.

Pics 2 and 3 appear to be 77-78 while pic 1 is a 75-76. That valve you speak of is on the 75-76 cars with factory air. I think it's part of the fast idle control system. My car is like pic 3 and it's a California car. I have a notebook full of records from the previous owner and there is no record of it having the modification. Based on that, and the comments above, I think it was a reacall on the 75-76 cars and that the 77-78 cars came from the factory with that setup.

No, I'd rather work on it alone. I don't have the patience to work with patients. (sorry, I couldn't resist)

I would have loved to do it that way since it was the original radiator, but my tanks were shot. Now I've got that damn a/t fluid cooler at the bottom of mine but no cooling problems.

Oh, if a 280 were only as simple as a 240. The fan shroud is in two halves. You have to get underneath the car to remove the bottom half. You'll have to use an offset phillips to remove the top half of the shroud unles you want to remove the AFM. On the other side I believe the charcoal cannister is in the way. And don't forget the coolant recovery, it's also in the way. The job is tedious but it can be done. You'll also find that a new radiator is better in the long run as the old ones have usually been poorly maintained and may not be repairable. At least that's what I found when I bought my 78. A new Modine radiatior is $140-160 bucks. Put one in, take proper care of it and you'll probably never have to mess with it again.

Get a 280 fan and you'll be fine as long as you're not running a 3 row crank pulley.

This thread was dead for over a month. Why bring it back. I don't care if someone wants to put a four cyl in their Z. It's their car. Just don't try to sell me on the idea. Let it go, GoinManta!

Ah yes. I remember your car, Brian. Saw it up close at last years Mossy Nissan Show. I see that you've done alot with it since then. I've always been a fan of the Skyline as well as other seldom seen Datsuns (in the US) such as the Silvia, Gloria, Cedric, etc. You'll notice that all of your replys come from Australia and one from Japan. I love to see that 'all Skyline' show. Maybe you guys could let me bring my 810 2dr. and park it off to the side somewhere with Les's Silvia.

Take a look at the metal mounting surface of the fan. If it's at the front edge of the fan it's a 280 unit. If it's recessed down towards the bottom edge it's a 280ZX-810-Maxima fan. Being recessed will make it sit farther forward to clear the longer crank pulleys that the ZX etc. had.

I don't think anyone is restoring no. 5. The '00005' referrence was just a tounge-in-cheek comment earlier in this thread. I believe Ron meant to say 00002.

It's in his signature.

Very true! Plus he's a good guy and if he can't find it, it probably doesn't exist. I'll buy parts from anywhere I can find them. I've come across parts at yard sales, self and full service junkyards, ebay, car shows, club meetings, swap meets, etc. Like Bill said, 'parts is parts.'

No, that's just the air regulator or auxiliary air valve. It adds extra air to the mix to help the engine warm up.