sblake01

I literally searched the world over to find one of those a while back. They were also used in the US as the alloy wheel for the 1979-80 Datsun 810.

See the 'switch is a bitch' thread.

Never mind that last post. I now know what you're talking about (two threads and a pm later!). The 'thermal vacuum valve'. It's located just below and behind the air regulator. It has two vacuum connections on it. I don't know exactly what it does but it seems to be part of the egr system. I might even have one and if I do, you can have it for the cost of postage. I'll have to look through my stuff and see. Give me a day or two.

Please attach a picture of the broken switch. I'm not sure if you are referring to the thermotime switch or the thermal transmitter or something else. 80 and up electronics are slightly different from the 75-79 that I am used to.

Only if that's part of the measure of your enjoyment of a car. I've owned lots of cars. No matter what you have, someone out there always has something faster, better handling, better looking, better in some way. That's all subjective anyway. My enjoyment of the Z or any Datsun or any other vehicle I choose for that matter has very little if anything to do with what someone else thinks of it. They don't have to drive it, they don't have to repair it when it breaks, they don't have to replace the parts that wear, etc. I do. Let that man enjoy his 38 Chevy for whatever reason he does. It's his car and his opinion. We all should be entitled to that.

I've seen it done. All it takes is money.

My 78 has the stock 3.545 rear which was used in all 77-78 regardless of trans, along with the 82 Maxima 5spd which is essentially the same as the 81-83 zx trans. For the way I use my car it's just fine for both street and highway. My 810 has the stock tranny which is the same as the 77-78 z 5 spd but it has a R180 3.7. That kind of make up for the smaller engine but I would really prefer the higher fifth gear of the later trans and if I ever have to replace it that's what I'll go with.

I'm talking about the one in the water neck with the fuel injector type connector. If it doesn't get a good signal from that sensor or if that sensor is bad, the car will either run badly or not at all.

The only 280zx that had the BW tranny was the turbo.

Welcome Stephen from another Stephen. When I first got mine (a 78 2 seater) it had been sitting for almost four years and exibited the symptoms you describe. My main problem turned out to be a bad gas tank. If yours has only been sitting for a year it may not be that but I would check the fuel pressure but I would start by changing the fuel filter and checking both the connection at the temperature sender and the sender itself. When I had the sputtering/dying problem on my 810 (similar setup) it turned out to be the temp sender. Hope that helps.

It's not. Unless someone went to great lengths to disguise it as one. EDIT: Oops, didn't see your post, MikeW. :stupid:

That's what I have in my cars. Works great for well over a year now in the Z and about 7 month in the 810 with no problems. Cooler than R12. I use a 25lb cylinder and a manifold to charge it and I didn't have to adapt the Shrader valves. But like I mentioned before, I'm not a fan of the small cans. But you do need an EPA cert to buy it.

If your 'ports' (actually called Shrader valves) are on the back of your compressor on a 78 you probably have non-factory dealer installed air. I really wouldnt suggest the R134a conversion for a system that old because you're sure to have problems due to the higher pressures that R134a creates in your system. TBK1 is right about R414b as it will go into a R12 system without doing a retrofit. I have had it in both of my old Datsuns for some time now and have had no problems. I just flushed the systems, vacuumed them down and filled them. No changing of the Shrader valves or any other components other than a couple of leaky hoses on the Z. I have no experience with FR-12 but I hear that it works equally well. The one deterrent to these other refrigerants is that you need to be EPA certified (which I am) to purchase them.

According to the chart in your link under technicians information, EnviroSafe is a direct R134a replacement. .33 lb of ES12 is equivalent to l lb of R12 which makes it's density more like R134a than R12. With that in mind, you probably did overcharge it. I would suggest checking with autorefrigerants.com for their recomendations as far as volume and pressure because I am unfamiliar with their product. One other note. They say to charge the low side to no more than 60 psi. That is considersablly higher than what the R12 low side limit is. If your pressures are too high it can not only cause the system to function inefficiently, it can damage components. If you don't have a charging manifold to visually check this with, I would suggest getting a hold of someone who does. I only charge from a cylinder with a manifold. I've always been against the use of those 12 oz cans because you have no real way to read the pressures.

I just hope that those early doors will fit. I don't know much about 75-76 cars but I do know that the 77-78 doors are different from the 70-74 doors. Being a Cali car does it have a catalytic converter?

Never heard that one, but I haven't worked much with R134a.

R414B goes by the tradename of 'Hotshot'. You need an EPA 608 or 609 certification to buy it. To properly flush the system you would need a flushing nozzle or a Recovery/Charging system and 6 to 16 ounces of Auto air flush and clean. There are several brands of it on the market. You'd pump it through the system and out into container, close up the system and pull a vaccum on it to remove any excess flush and/or moisture. Like I said, I'm and HVAC tech so I have the equipment. It would probably be better for you to get it done at a shop. One word of note. If you have anything other than R12 or R134a in your system, most shops won't work on them. That is what prompted me to get the training, the certification and the equipment.

IIRC, EnvrioSafe is an R134A replacement. I'll look into that. But if it is you have to be careful using it because R134A and it's replacements run higher head pressures than R12 and its replacements. You'd run the risk of blowing up that old compressor.

A couple of things here. The old York compressor is an R12 compressor. I'm sure that the one MSA sells is a R134A compressor. You'd have to change other components and I still don't think you'd be happy with it. I'm a certified MVAC tech so I have the equipment to proprely service an a/c system. First thing I would do is flush that old york system. If it's been sitting for some time who knows what kind of contaminants are in it. The I would pull a vaccum on the system and see if it holds. If it does, I'd fill it with R414B since that is the only refrigerant that work in an R12 system without modification. At that point, I'd check it for leaks. Generally, if you're going to have any leaks with that kind of system, it will be hoses. They can be replaced. I have done one of those systems before and was able to get it to cool to 42 degrees at the vents. I can get the later factory Z car air (280-280ZX) to cool down to the mid 30s at the vents. Set up properly (no Pep Boys 12 oz cans) and assuming the compressor is in good condition, the york system will cool your car.

To me, that's a nauseating idea!

If they were any good at what they do, they could cut the end off the one driveshaft, put it on the other, and balance it. Assuming that they are the same diameter. The shop I use out here (Inland Empire Driveline) could do it.

Why not change the yoke on the driveshaft to one that mates up with the differential?

I'd try Seafoam instead. It's never caused me any problems.

I guess I'm one of the lucky ones. Every Z I've ever had (3) has had a working clock. The only Datsun clock I ever had a problem with was in my 1600 Roadster.

I have seen people put those on cars that have never left the country.