sblake01

I have some spare relays for my 78. I know you are referring to a 73 and I don't know if it would be the same but I can take a picture of the intermittent wiper relay if that would be of any help.

Should we explain your most recent post in this old thread to alg? Nah...Are you going to keep the wheels you got from me? I just purchased a Mothers Power Ball. It's a cool thing and I wish I had it when I was working on those rims. The reason I ask is that a lot of guys think that 14 x 6 is too small. Especially with a turbo.

Unless you have a 'Black Pearl', they were just dealear add-ons. Mine has the louvers but not those rails on the bumpers. I don't really much care for them. (The rails)

That is the bottom line!

There shouldn't be a bigger hole on the right side as Nissan never installed a factory mirror on the right side of USA 280Zs.

Those are the mirrors I have on my 280. I think I bought them at Pep Boys. They were only about 20 a pair. The large hole you mention is for the OEM mirror. I actually would like to have OEM mirrors on both sides, but I don't think Nissan ever made one for the right side.

The answer to your question is in your statement. And I'm glad you think I'm correct. I'm out.

Where did I say the fuel tank was under pressure? Though, in a way it is. You have removed you gas cap when refueling and heard the pressure escape? But that wasn't really the point of my post. And as far as that little filter in the inlet of the fuel pump, all you have to do is remove it (carefully) and clean it.

ACE Hardware.

240ZX, where are you?

To answer dogma420's question, the fuel tank in a fi car is very different inside than the one in a carbed car. 77-78 tanks are also larger than 75-76 tanks. But they are both different from the 70-73 tanks. The baffles are there to help the fuel system maintain the higher fuel pressure necessary to run fuel injection. And to oldroaddog, when you say the small filter by the tank, I hope you don't mean the fuel damper. That's not a filter. I'd put that back in if I were you. It's there to prevent fluctuations in fuel discharge pressure. They rarely ever go bad.

That may be true, but when the sending unit is bad I replace it. It's not the only thing that can cause a low pressure reading. I've replaced one in eight years on the Z and never on the 810 so I'm not really certain that they are inherently erratic.

Should be directly above the steering column.

I meant no disrespect to Danica Patrick (in the shout box). My comment was pointed at the media. She did a fine job. For a woman, for a rookie, for anybody, period! "Winning car to a fourth place finish?" If she had the only car out there capable of winning the race , then why even run the race?

That is what we all seem to be suggesting, not knowing if it would work or not having actually ever done it myself. Maybe someone could say for sure that they know this would work from personal experience? Otherwise, like me, you're just speculating.

Read her post, she's NOT unsing the Nissan trans. If the flange from the turbo driveshaft will fit on the NA driveshaft that will solve the problem. If not, then it's off to the driveshaft shop to have a driveshaft built using the turbo yoke and the NA flange. I had to to this when I put a 200SX five speed and a 1600 Roadster differential in my 64 320 Pickup.

Check your temperature sensor. A bad one will also cause the problem you've described.

What you describe sounds like where and oxygen sensor would mount. Of course, a 72 wouldn't have one. Nor would any other S30. Is this a header or a stock exhaust manifold? Either way, if it has an oxygen sensor hole, it's from a 280ZX. Plug it or weld it closed.

My 78 has the one pictured on the left.

I'm afraid your answer lies somewhere in that statement. When I bought my Z, it had been sitting for 'about four years' according to the PO. The gas tank was so full of crud, that it was a lost cause. I replaced it and the problem (same one that you describe) dissappeared. There are baffles, chambers, nooks and crannys in a fuel injected car's tank. They are virtually impossible to clean out with any kind of chemical, additive, etc. Believe me, I tried! Your tank will either need to be professionally cleaned, or replaced.

Ashamed!!?

The cam is not the problem. You most likely have your oil pump mounted in such a way that the distributor is not in the correct position. This has been discussed here off and on extensively. Do a search and you will find the info.

Or it could just be normal wear on a 30+ year old rotating part.

After leaving the previous post earlier this morning, I got to thinking why not do it now. I've had the parts for over a year so I left the computer and four hours later, I had working a/c! Nothing was wrong with the system itself but one of the plastic levers in the heater/ac control panel was broken and I couldn't close the vent unless I reached under the dash and did it manually. That plus the fact that the switch that turns the compressor on and off was stuck in the on position so I had it disconnected. It was kind of a tedious job since the console and the center dash panels have to be removed in order to replace the control panel and the switch. I relocated the switch from the console to below the guages to the right of the ignition switch. After having no a/c for better than a year it still reaches 40 degrees at the vents! So, now that that's done, I'll see those of you who are going in Long Beach next month.

That gives me a little over two weeks to get the a/c controls squared away on my Z!