sblake01

You also should know that the SR20DE/DET that people use in these swaps is not a Sentra engine. The Sentra engine is a front wheel drive engine. The engine used in these swaps is a RWD, non USA engine. I don't like them in a Z but that's just my opinion. I'll tell you what, though, the one SR20DET-Z I have seen was damn fast! But if you're looking to do a 4 cyl swap for economy reasons, buy a 4 cyl car instead.

It's not an automatic, regardless of his description. Look at the shifter and the clutch pedal in the pictures.

Looks like there has been some grinding and smooting done on those wheels. Hard to tell, though, if they are actually chromed or just highly polished.

It it is as described, I'd say that the BIN price would be a steal for a 70. But it sounds too good to be true to me. Comes with the 'D' hubcaps and stock wheels too. Correct valve cover and oil cap, NGK wires (I think) but aren't some of the stickers missing from under the hood? Don't really care for the uretheane bushings or the cd player if you're looking for original, however.

36-40 PSI for the EFI cars.

That's an area where overkill is a good thing. The hose I use which I purchased at ACE hardware, is rated at 250psi! We discussed it in another thread

If it doesn't have continuity when you check it as shown in the picture, it won't be closed when it gets the signal from the starter and thus won't send the signal to the CSV.

A little off topic trivia: BAP-GEON=British Auto Parts-GEorge Owen Automotive as explained to me by a friend of mine that worked at the one in West Covina, CA a few years ago. But back to the original question, would MSA or VB have the info you seek?

I do remember FAR Performance. The carbs I ran were not stock carbs, per se. As far as the flat tops I used, the 'tinkering' I mentioned made them work much better but also made it tougher for them to pass the emission test. Remember the 'Hamilton Stations?' Anyway, a couple of friends of mine, Paul Corbin, rest his soul, and Elvan Meneses, who sill runs Z car Specality in Upland, and I approached them similarly to how you would approach blueprinting a Holley, or a Rochester carb. As I recall, it involved some drilling, machining, closing off things, etc. This was in the late 70s-early 80s. No one really has much interest in them today so there isn't much being done with them. In their stock form, I would have to agree with the general consesus.

Statements like that are what keep the general opinion of flat tops where it is. Not wanting to start that argument up all over again, I just want to say that I have had success with them on two different cars and know of others who have also had success with them. There isn't much difference between the US and other versions. I have been told (I believe by Bruce Palmer in another thread) that the flat tops I had on my 510 were Datsun Comp. flat tops. They weren't. They came from a 73 240Z. After a rebuild and a little tinkering, they worked fine for me. I also had them on my 73 620, those were from a 260Z. Again, no problems. Don't believe everything you hear, no matter how many times you hear it. Just my experience and my $.02.

After we get settled in the new house next week, I'll scan a factory sales brochure that lists the standard and optional equipment and attach it here.

Actually, the waters haven't churned in a month. Let it go.

I believe that the Z22S would have been the carbureated version that was in the pickups in the early eighties. I don't think we got the Z22E here. The only NAPS Z engines I reacall here are the Z20S, the Z22S, and the Z24S. I don't remember ever seing that engine in the fuel injected (E) form. Someone correct me if I'm mistaken. (Like they wouldn't?) :classic:

My 78 also has the original vinyl.

Okay, okay! I'm:stupid:. I got '74 260Z' stuck in my head when I read the first post and reacted to that. But in the picture it's obviously a 280.

Welcome, Rob. Sweet looking 260. And a 'late' 260 it is. What's you build date? In my research (looking at identification tags in the junkyards) I have found that even though 1974 was listed as the only year for the 260z here in the US, some of them were actually built late enough to be registered as a 75. I am one the apparently small group that doesn't mind the late, larger bumpers. I just feel that it fits the era and is part of what makes the later S30's...well, the later S30's. And they also define the final evolution of this great car that has brought us all together here.

Glad you fixed it! Actually you can probe the fuses for continuity with your digital VOM while they're still in the fusebox. One of the ones I have is a little cheapo from Radio Shack but what makes it perfect for that job is that it emits and audible 'beep' when there is continuity.

That's it for me tonignt! I'm going to bed.

New cars also use MAFS not AFM's. And a lot of other newer technology. I would rather run my nearly thirty year old fuel injected cars with the technology they were built with, rather than tinker with things in the attempt to find something better. That's just me. You do what you want. Expert? Not by any means but I can keep my cars running. I really dont think you'll gather much information here. There has been threads on using a MAFS instead of an AFM but that would require an entirely different type of engine management than you or I presently have in our cars. I'm happy with mine the way it is. You would seem not to be. Try it. Let us know how it comes out. I really can't see you gaining anything by just moving the air temp sensor but if you did eliminate the one in the AFM you would probably need a different type of sensor to put it in the plenum and a different type of system to know what to do with the information it senses.

Because it works where it is?

On my 78, that light indicates that either the emergency brake is on or the brake fluid level is low. A 73, if I reacall doesn't have the sensors in the caps for the brake fluid level. Are you sure he was driving? Maybe he was just warming up the car and still had the emergency brake on during that 30 sec period.

My first car was a 1958 Rambler American. Also $50. I replaced the head gasket on that thing by myself in about an hour and a half! It was a flathead 6. But, I did do my share of walking when I had that car. I can honestly say that my 280Z has never stranded me, except for when someone stole it and that wasn't it's fault. I doubt if I have a total of $2500 in it but that just shows how the value has incresed for those cars in that last 8 years or so plus I did a lot of the work myself. If your potential Z has been cared for like it sounds, it should already be reliable. As it has been stated before, try to find someone knowlegeable of these cars and have him (or her) help you check it out before you buy it.

Does anyone remember the original 'Dash Riprock?' I don't mean the band (of 'Let's Go Smoke Some Dope' fame) but the character on the 60s show 'The Beverly Hillbillies?' He was one of Ellie Mae's boyfriends and I think he was played by Larry Pennell who was kind of a bit part type actor that seemed to pop up everywhere.

The 280 was still rated at GHP. My tag says 170 hp. If that were net then wouldn't the gross be even higher? I believe the net ratings began in 79 with the ZX, at least here in the US.

Carl makes a very valid point. I'm looking at it from my prespective. I will soon be 55 years old. I have tinkered with cars since I was about 14. I was my older brother's helper. I don't claim to know everything about these cars. It's an ongoing learning experience. I do know enough to keep them running. And I have advisors, this list included.