sblake01

Touche! I guess we need to watch which doors were walking through, so to speak.

My answer is basically that it depends on what you expect from the car. I have owned both. I would respectfully disagree with James on 280Z 'slug' comment or that a 240 would 'gun down' a 280 comment. But a 240 will out handle a 280. Were talking stock vs stock here I assume. A properly maintained 280Z is just more dependable. Mine can sit a month or so and still start up as if I had driven it yesterday. You will have to become knowledgeable on Nissan's adaptation of the Bosch L-jetronic fuel injection system because there really aren't that many people around that really know how to maintain it in its stock form. At least that is what I have found in my experience. Now, even with all of that being said, the 240Z has a mystique that is only vaguely apparent in the 260/280. I'm talking US cars here because the model line up was slightly different in other countries. I am still intrigued by the early cars and have fond rememberences of the first one I bought in 1970. My present car only partially satisfies that mystique. Some of the things that had changed by 1978 appeal to me more now than they would have when I was younger. You are young enough to enjoy it fully. I had a 1970 when I was 19 and a 1972 when I was 22. With mortgage payments, a wife, children and grandchildren, retirement and life in general, I doubt if I will ever own another 70. But at the stage you are in life, I'd say, go for it.

Cremmenga, in my post I talked about personal opinions. We're all entitled to them. Mine is no better than yours or anyone elses. When one tries to force that opinion down my throat that's when I get edgy. But I don't get into this personal attack thing (anymore) because all that does is lead to where your are, especially if you tend to be thin skinned. And yes you were offended, it's obvious by your posts in this thread. Especially that rather unnecessary one with the exclaimation points. Carl was just giving you what you asked for. No one is here to impress anyone with their knowledge. We all can learn. That's why I come here. Now, does anybody remember what this thread was really about?

I really don't see Gary's response as rude. If we are a 'Classic' Z club and we tend to be kind of a refuge from all of the 'V8-your-Z' or 'Rice-up-your-Z' type sites. I think the general consensus here is against that sort of thing, and that has been stated quite often. The 'newer club members' need to understand that this is not one of those sites. Maybe he could have worded it differently but it really didn't bother me and in the real world the epidermis needs to be a little thicker. I don't come here to read about clear taillights, V8 engines, 22' wheels, picnic bench wings, fart can exhausts, but I know that suff is here. And I, as does everyone else, have a right to voice my opinion against that kind of stuff if I am of a mind to. 'Classic', to me, involves some degree of interest in the history of the automobile. If you want to call a V8 Z a Z, then go ahead. Just don't try to force that opinion down the throat of somene that doesn't agree.

Not really, on either count. He's just speaking his mind without denigrating anyone which is better than your response. When someone does that to a Z, it's really no longer a Z. It might as well be a Camaro, a Vega, or whatever. That's my opinion. So now am I stupid? Roll with it, my man, it's a lot less stressful.

In your profile I see you have a 76. The fuel pump relays are located in the box next to the front passenger side strut tower.

I hope you wedged the timing chain before pulling the sprocket off the camshaft.

I hope that solves the problem you were having with the car running badly while warming up. I am surprised that it even ran well when warm with the wires out of sync. Let us know how it turns out and if that cold running problem goes away with the wires corrected.

Hey! I owned a Pinto too. But seriously, the second part of your post is quite accurate. Look what happened when they tried to 'fix' it. The car became heavier and and more 'Americanized' over the years. I love my 280 but I understand that the philosophy had changed considerably by then. And then, the ZX.........

I think that Mr. K et. al. mispercieved the desires of the US market, as you said, but in retrospect, it really didn't matter. The Z would have sold at a higher price, considering what else was comprable at the time. They couldn't keep them in the showrooms as it was. I had to wait 6 weeks to get my 70. I would have bought whatever they had. There is no doubt in my mind that stock L20A would run cirlces around a stock L24. But if the intent was to sell cars here based on the their preception of what the US wanted, then, as you say, they got it right.

I own a 79 810 2dr. What I have found is that there really isn't much interest in them here in the US. There is one other member here that I know of that has one. The wagons, I would think, from what I've seen chasing down parts over the last couple of years are of less interest. I was lucky enough to find one in running condition with low mileage (79K). I was able to drive it home from where I purchased it (60 miles) and basically just painted it and have been using it as a daily driver for the last two years. As far as being worth parting out, other that the engine and trans, I doubt if the rest of the car would generate much interest.

If you have a good one, it does come in handy for removing the flywheel bolts.

The second car looks nicer though not as 'original' and has a lower VIN and would probably be a better occasional driver. The 'FRP' cars (sorry) don't appeal to me as much as just a clean, maintained, properly repaired, or even slightly modified, regular car. I guess I just expected more from the cars that came out of that 'Z store' thing.

I pm'd you with a couple of suggestions. Does your car start right up when it's cold but you're not getting the 'fast idle' as it warms up? But is runs smoothly and normally once it's warmed up? My suggestions are based on that assumption. Let me know.

And an S30 has no more in common with it (the Z33) than it does with the new Mustang! At least the Mustang is still a Ford. What does the Datsun company of the 70s have in common with the present Nissan comany? Hell, the present Nissan company doesn't have much in common with the Nissan company of the 80s.

I just don't understand why anyone would want to remove components that are integral parts of the EFI system. Unless the cold start valve is bad, it will not cause the car to run rich. I also live in SoCal and the cold start system is useful, even in warm weather. Removing it will not increase the performance of a car in any way. It will only cause difficulty in starting the car anytime it's not at or near operating temperature. If people had a better understanding of how the entire EFI system worked, maybe they'd leave it alone. And as far as an archived answer goes, what good is it if it is ill advised? Unless hacking the factory wiring is good advice. And I hear what you're saying Carl. This guy had his car up for sale 8 months ago!

So, am I to infer from this that at least to this point, none of the respondents, including myself, would be interested in clear tail lights for their Z?

There are also a couple of fuel pump related relays in the box by the shock tower under the hood. Also, if it runs for 20-30 seconds, the injectors are working as there is not enough fuel in the CSV to sustain that long of a run.

I would go to the junkyard and remove the exhaust system from a 280 at the point where the PO cut yours off, clean it up, and have it installed with a new muffler. That would probably be the cheapest way to go and you would have all the original clamps and hangers, shields etc. I don't know about Kansas, but here in California 280Zs aren't too hard to find in the 'yards.

Ignition relay? Unless that's what you're referring to as the 'power/fi relay.' Also, check the electrical part of the ignition switch.

So now we have '28oz', '280z', and '280 Z'. Welcome!

Now that I think of it, you probably would need the exhaust tube to be hooked up in order for raising the diapraghm in the EGR valve to cause a stumble. If it runs okay without it leave it plugged.

If the actual mileage can't be verified, which is tough anyway on a vehicle with a 6 digit odometer, it becomes what they refer to in the trade as a 'TMU' vehicle. That stand for 'true mileage unknown' and it actually decreases the potential value of the car.

It looks that way. Does your egr work? Lift the diapraghm up while your car is idling and see if it makes the engine stumble, if so it's okay. Maybe you should just get the tube and re install it. Might make the car run better.