sblake01

Actually, it's where the egr tube should be. If you feel under the bottom of the intake manifold beneath the egr valve you'll probably find another bolt or plug there too because that's where the other end of the egr tube connects.

Youth is wasted on the young!

A picture of the new house and a view from the front yard. We should be in before the end of next month. Can't wait!

It has to be the brake light switch as it completes the circuit. If it sticks closed, the brake lights will stay on, if it sticks open, they will not come on. Very simple. A short wouldn't cause this.

Les really doesn't fit in Silvia his all that well either. Like me and my 320.

From what I've heard people say, I must be living a charmed life with my fuel injected cars. I've just always had good luck with them. But then again, I never had a problem with flat top carbs either. Had them on a 510 a few years back and also on a 620 pickup. Oh well. Where do you live? I don't drink but I rarely miss a chance to get together with people and talk Datsun.

Oh no! Is Coastieee240z back and posting under a different name? :classic:

The mechanical parts of the stock EFI system i.e. AFM, fuel pressure regulator, etc. seldom go bad. The electronic parts, i.e. thermotime switch, cold start valve, temp sensor, fuel pump, etc. also hold up fairly well, and are readily available and not too expensive should you need them. Dirty or corroded connectors can be cleaned or replaced. Again not at much cost. As far as you list of main advantages my Z (and 810) will match or exceed the list. I guess it's just a matter of preference at to whether or not you like the appearance. Both of my EFI cars were obviously used when I bought them and the Z cost me less that $100 to get it to run properly, a fi relay and some clean up on the aforementioned connectors. The 810 cost me a cold start valve and thermotime switch which I purchased from the junkyard for about $12 total. 8 years ago for the Z and 2 years ago for the 810. I have had to do nothing with either of them since other than normal maintainence since.

Michael, there are actually two GX cams that Nissan Motorsports lists. The part number I gave you is for the later center distributor engines. I have worked a little in the past with A motors and I'm familiar with the differences. The A12 and the non-USA A10 up to 73 are different from the A14, A15, and A12A which came later.

Nissan Motorsports has a nice cam for those engines. It's the 'GX' cam. Lift(I-E)/duration are .331"/.328"/256deg. It was actually made to go with the twin su setup they had for the A12 but it will fit in any A series but you must install new lifters with it. The Nissan part number for this cam is 13001-H5700 and for the stock lifters 13231-H1001, & the lightweight lifter (24 gr lighter than the oe lifter) 13231-M0820. It's a good grind for the street. Garry Kerr, who I seem to run into at all the local Datsun/Nissan shows, runs one in his A15 powered 65 NL320 pickup. There is one thing though, the OE lifters are about 10 bucks each and the lightweight ones are about 30 bucks each (x8) IIRC.

Alot of what I post is based on 'been there, done that' and in my sometimes crude way I was just trying to give him a 'heads up' on what he's in for. He should have mentioned earlier that the smog pump itself was toast. Maybe someone here could have helped him find one. It's more trouble and expense to remove the entire system than to simply replace the pump. As for DGV's, I think less of them than flat tops, that's JMO. But, as Carl says, we have meandered all over the automotive landscape here and it gets kind of frustrating when you see advice and/or suggestions being given and seemingly not being followed. And then the same questions being asked again in another thread. There are two 'cremmenga somg pump' threads. Why? No one, at least not I, is assuming that the man is stupid. That's why you ask questions. To gain knowledge. Not one of us here was born with the necessary expertise to work on these cars. We learned. But this is a public forum. In a public forum I have become accustomed to criticism. I've had some aimed at me and I've levied out some. If you think it's bad here, check out some of the other fourms. Thicken up that skin.

In most cases I have seen, it's a real bitch to remove those tubes from the exhaust manifold. They generally strip or break because they've been in there since day one. When I did that years ago on my 510, I pulled the exhaust manifold, drilled out what was left of the tubes and welded the holes. What you're trying to do can be a real PITA. What do you expect to gain by removing the smog pump anyway? Especially with those DGV's? Talk about boat anchors! (Nobody else has said it up until now so I thought it was time). Weren't you talking about putting a V8 in it anyway. I'm out.

I would disagree with Gary on the 'ease of maintainence' assesment. After dealing with EFI for over 15 years, I've become pretty proficient with troubleshooting the problems that can occur with the 280Z/280ZX/810/Maxima(RWD) type EFI. It's not nearly as complicated as the modern systems. I guess it's all in what you are accustomed to.

From my experience, stock vs stock, I would say EFI. Others will disagree but I have owned both though my carb cars were L24s.

Slow shipping and high shipping costs through the eBay seller. I've never dealt directly with N.O.W.

Go ahead. The procedure for adjusting the valves is well outlined in the FSM and in the Chilton/Haynes manuals. Remember, a little too loose is better than a little too tight. That's how we learn. I had no clue when I did my first L series valve adjustment but the more I did them the easier it became. As for the carbs, if they are the DGV type shown in your avitar, I feel that they are easier to adjust than the DCOE sidedrafts. Get a book. I have one that is a Weber carb book that covers all types of Webers. We're in the process of moving and it's packed away somewere so I can't tell you the actual name of it but do a search on Weber carbs and you should be able to find it.

I'm aware of that but I base my opinion of a business on my experience with them and mine experience wasn't good.

He never says '4 door' in his ad. This guy is an eBay seller that I don't think much of but that's another story.

Well, I'm coming up on 55 (July 1). I'm in pretty good shape, considering. I only weigh 8 lbs. more than I did as a senior in high school, playing conerback on the football team, 2 guard on the basketball team, and 3rd base on the baseball team. I can still run and jump, only now I need reason to! I am retired after 34 1/2 yrs in the grocery industry and work a little part time job at ACE hardware as the receiving clerk. It keeps me busy. We just purchased a new house in North San Bernardino and will be moving there next month. Bigger house, bigger garage. Our finances are in better shape that at any other point in my life. I don't really care what color a Z is but mine happens to be blue (code 510). As far as I'm concerned, they all look good.

Do you know for sure that it's leaking from a seam? Could be leaking from the filler hose. Never experienced that on a Z but I did on my truck. I would only fill it to about 3/4 of a tank until I fixed it.

Okay now, if we could just get a response from him. (Okay Carl, so you type fatster than me!)

It appears to be seven.

240ZX, read the second line in the first post in this thread. It was an analogy that spowith21 began the thread with although Will's analogy does make more sense.