sblake01

TomoHawk. I have nothing negative to say about any of this. I was just curious where you'd go with this after those two responses. The thread doesn't need to be locked, killed or whatever. People that don't have an interest should just leave it alone.

I'm with you, 240ZX. I'll be there this year also but only as a spectator. Every year I've been there I've been parked on a side street with beat up 510s, roadsters, etc. My car is nicer than some of the cars that they allow to park on the main street. And I show up early. They definately have some sort of priority parking arrangement. The event has outgrown the venue but there's no chance they'll move it considering where their store is! Those parking lots on the side street are closer to the show than where MSA has put me the three years I've attended and those businesses are closed on Sunday. That's where I'll be parked.

Over to you, TomoHawk!

mperdue, I would be a little cautious of Charlie. Chloe referred me to him. Those wheels you have attached were once in my possesion! A year and a half or so he had them listed (w/o picture) as 40343-U8900 which is the 810 alloy wheel. So I bought them. $440 incl. shipping and center caps. The center caps were right but the wheels obviously weren't. He did pay for the return shipping and let me keep the center caps for $40. But after he explained his inventory system, I'm not really sure he knows much about Datsun parts or even what he has. Be very sure that what you order from him is what you think it is.

You may have gotten some kind of adware in your computer. Run a program like Ad-aware 6.0 and it should find it and remove it.

Much ado about nothing----William Shakesphere (I'm not knocking your post, Enrique, just remarking on the fact that this post has reach the point of needing such an explaination)

I'm curious to see what it finally goes for or if it even meets the reserve amount. If it truly is a frame off restoration with parts having to be fabricated, over 1500 man/hours of labor, we could be talking Barrett-Jackson type money! As much as I like Datsuns, I not sure I'd know what to do with that ugly little beauty!

I thought that the consesus of the thread was that you couldn't buy one of these (OS Gilken or LY) even if you wanted to as they were made years ago and are basically 'nonobtainium' now as Chris would say. Not to mention the cost were you to find someone that had one to sell.

That was taken basically from the 810 service manual. The 280Z FSM has basically the same info on page EE-30. There is one less circuit on the 280Z but the functions are basically the same. I don't know about that extra plug you mention.

About a month ago, while driving my 810, suddendly all of the warning lights came on and my volt meter dropped to an even 12 volts. Normal is a little above 14. When I got home, I tested it with a voltmeter and it was still at 12 with all the warning lights on then suddenly it seemed to go back to normal. The next time I drove it, it jumped up to the top of the voltmeter. I went home and checked it again with a voltmeter and it was sitting at 16.5 at an idle and the more you revved it the higher it went. I swiched it out with my spare alternator and it has been normal ever since. Since my regulator is integral, I really don't know which went bad, alternator or regulator, but based on what you described, I would test those two first after you've made sure all of the connections are good.

The link doesn't seem to work.

But the initial question was 'where is the ballast resistor in a 280Z' my answer was 'there isn't one.' That is, no ballast resistor. There are five different circuits in the IC ignition unit on the side of the distributor which basically assume the function of the ballast resistor as well as others functions: 1. Spark timing signal circuit, which detects the ignition signal sent from the dist. p/u coil, and amplifies the signal. 2. Lock-preventing circuit, which cuts off the ignition coil primary current when the ignition switch is in the ON and the engine is off. 3. Duty control circuit, which controls the ratio of the ignition coil primary current ON-OFF time periods, in one cycle of ignition operation. 4. Power switching circuit, which makes or breaks the primary circuit current of the coil. 5. Current limiting circuit, which controls the current value so that excessive current will not flow through the power switching circuit. After doing the homework, I conclude that there would be no advantage in using a higher output coil since this system seems to allow a finite amount of current to the distributor.

Well, I don't know the electronic explaination but I do remember noticing that every car I've had with points had one and every car I've had w/o points didn't.

A 280Z has no ballast resistor.

They look great! Better than they did on my car. Maybe they just work better with red than with blue. I spent a lot of hours on those things. I was considering having them coated but then I found the 260/280Z alloys. I'm glad to see that they have found an appreciative home.

My car has the 'dealer installed' a/c rather than the factory installed setup. It doesn't have some of the things shown in your diagram like the solenoids, the vacuum bottle etc. That 'S' tube is just a vacuum hose. The 'thing that pulls on the throttle linkage' (labeled ? in my picture) is the item that sonofzzap and I are questioning. It doesn't seem to act as part of a fast idle control device (F.I.C.D.) at least not on my car.

I have that on my 78 and have never been able to find out what it is! It is left out of the picture in the FSM. It seems to pull against the linkage under vacuum. Like Tomohawk says, Haynes show a picture of the vacum switching valve which my car and yours does not have. The BPT (Back pressure transducer) valve is the large round one to the left of the EGR valve. Mine is hooked up differently than yours in that vacuum comes directly from the manifold. I always thought it was just part of the California emmisions stuff. If anyone finds out what this actually does, let me know!

I live in SoCal where the summer temps reach the 90s-low 100s. I own two EFI Datsuns w/o the injector cooler and have never experienced the heat soak/vapor lock problem.

Check this one out!!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Viewitem&item=4519566574

The Nissan Motorsport parts catalog lists the L-SERIES RACE DAMPER as part # 99996-E1060E and the Z EURO DAMPER as 12303-E4100. There is also a third option listed-The Nismo Pulley Set.

Don't know about the wheels but the story is more interesting. I've seen that picture somewhere before. I like the body kit except for the opening in the hood. According to Eric, more info on the car will be posted on his site in the future.

If the ground turns out to be okay, considering the temperature change you might want to look into Vicky's eplaination. What is the CCA rating of your battery? Battery strength does diminish and temperature drops.

Saw this while visiting another Datsun site. I've never seen, heard, or read about one of these. http://home.sprintmail.com/~cathbrown/doug/pickup.html

I didn't think you guys would have any problem finding them. Out here in California, or at least around my area, the are everywhere in the local self service junkyards. There on any ZX, 80-84 Maxima, Z31, etc. with factory aluminum wheels. If you want, I can go get some. They'd be much cheaper than anything you've posted here. Like maybe 10-15 bucks including postage. They usually just include them in the price when buy wheels or just throw them in when you buy other parts. I'd just have to wait for a break in the rain.

Well said, Carl!