sblake01

Looks to me that you would run into clearance problems with the master cyl, booster, steering column, etc. on a LHD car. Maybe that's why he's selling it. It just seems to me if this is all he says it is and it would fit on his car, he would be using it instead of selling it.

All I get is a dash (-) with the num lock on and an (m) with the num lock off.

Bypassing the heater won't hurt anything on the car. It decreases the total volume of your cooling system a little but not enough to hurt. You won't enjoy driving in cold weather as much, however!

I think you said it better then I did!

The kid that started this thread has probably grown up a little by now considering that it was over two years ago. John Coffey hasn't posted on this site for quite some time now (that's a shame, I'd really rather hear from him then some kid dreaming about having enough horsepower to smoke a Honda). But at any rate I don't think the kid thought he was too stupid or was too embarrased to come back. I think reality just set in. When you return from that vodka-induced fog, the world will still be the same. What kind of logic are you looking for?

The solenoids are for the A/C at least that is what I determined from looking at the FSM. My Z has aftermarket air so it is different and the 810 has more of a ZX type system. That vaccum operated thing you speak of is the BPT valve. I never really knew what it does but the letters stand for Back Pressure Transducer. You can test that by disconnecting the tube from the from the EGR revving the engine again to 3000-3500 rpm and you should feel vaccum on that end of the hose. The car doesn't have to be cold for this test. If you have that little black/brown vaccum delay valve that goes in the vaccum line between the thermal vaccum valve and the BPT valve then you have a former California car. (The brown side faces the front of the engine)

It's that same antipathy you mention that leads to the opinionated and misinformed comments we hear on the Barrett-Jackson broadcasts. Some of the reasoning they use to explain why the Z or other Japaneese cars are not as collectable as it should be is completely contradicted by the fact that the Mustangs, Camaros, Corvettes were produced in larger numbers and still command insane prices. But they can tell you all you would ever want to know about Mustangs, Camaros, etc. And then they always have Alain D. to inform the public about the Euro cars. Letters of complaint have already been sent to Barrett-Jackson also but I'm afraid the result will be about the same as you state.

It's not exactly a hi-res picture plus I blew it up a little. I still think it's the right colour with the effects the lighthing and quality of the picture making it appear to be lighter.

When you say 'thermocheck valve' are you referring to the 'thermal vaccum valve?' You can check that by starting the car cold, disconnecting the hose from the BPT valve, and holding the end of the hose while revving the engine up to 3500-4000 rpm. This must be done while the engine is cold. There should be no vaccum at that point. If there is vaccum at that point the thermal vaccum valve needs to be replaced. That's a fun little job that requires draining out a little coolant before you remove the valve.

Actually, that rear panel looks to be the correct color for a 73. It just doesn't stand out in the picture against the silver paint on the rest of the car.

That is why my EGR is still hooked up on both cars. It runs, it runs right, it starts up, cold or hot, it doesn't run rich, and it passes smog. My F.I. system doesn't fail, etc., etc., etc. There might be a lesson somewhere in there.

Coastieee240z, is there a reason you type in blue text?

PrOxLaMuS- Doesn't seem to work for me. This is and old keyboard maybe I'll try it on one of my other computers.

#1 is the first one clockwise from the clip above the vaccum control unit.

620 Pickup

"Original-style" headlamps will remain available throughout our lifetime. I don't even understand the gist of this thread. It died over a year ago without any solution for the original question. Like others said, just get under the car a change the damn things if you have to. How hard is it? How often do you have to change them?

PrOxLaMuS (no copyright key on my 'board), I haven't forgotten about the wheels. I just haven't had a chance to get to FedEx and USPS. I hope to have an answer for you by the end of the week.

I would say, considering the cash it would take to what you describe in your first paragraph, which sounds like a pipe dream to me, why not make it a twin turbo, or an RB for that matter. All it takes is money. Practicality would side with the L26 but you'll never 'blow past the ricers' with that. I have no vote on this poll because none of this means anything to me. (perhaps the young bull-old bull theory?)

Everthing I ever ordered from them seemed to come from Bruce Titus Nissan in Tacoma, Wa. Payment processing and shipping has always been prompt. I have never personally experienced the situation you described with them.

I'm sure you also heard stories of stations being shut down, business liscenses being revoked, large fines being imposed, people even doing jail time for cheating on the emissions testing program here in Cali. Even though the whole thing is an out ant out racket, I just prefer to play it straight up because they hold all of the cards!

Not as easy to do in California as it used to be. Even so, I wouldn't go 'broadcasting' such intentions over the intenet as the fines are pretty steep here if you get caught.

Banzai Motorworks (http://www.zzxdatsun.com) sells all the pre-formed tank hoses and grommets. They list them for 1970-1973 240Z but I believe the 260Z uses the same setup.

Ares240Z, it looks like Nate have come up with a different plan and no longer needs an extra 'set of eyes.'

Where did the rotors come from? I once bought a pair from one of the local auto parts stores and no matter what I did they squealed. I ultimately replaced them with a pair of OEM rotors and the problem was solved.