sblake01

You both came up with tha same figure, really. If you divide Imperial gallons by US gallons and multiply Tomohawk's figure you get gs72s20's figure. And yes, I remember Professor Julius Sumner-Miller. (Why is it so?) I think he passed away about 1987 or so.

Those are how they are on my car, in fact, that picture is my car! I dont recall where I picked up the info but I always thought that red was 60 amp and black was 80 amp.

You will need those lug nuts. All of the Datsun alloy rims use them. The 810 alloys, the 260/280Z alloys, 6 spoke, Iron Cross, Swastika, Honeycomb, etc. There an easy find at the junkyards.

I've got that tranny in my 64 320 pickup. It came out of a 78 200SX.

And there are no bids?

Never seen one like that. We did a thread on oil caps maybe about a year ago. You know, the two 'elephant' caps, the one that just says 'OIL' that some call the '710' cap, etc. Actually, it looks like the basic run-of-the-mill cap that someone has removed the kanji characters from somehow.

Yes, but the one from MSA is a direct plug-in.

Say what???

I'm sorry Coastiee240z but I'm going to have to invoke the ignore list on you for that blue text. I don't know about anyone else but it's kind of hard on these 54 1/2 year old eyes.

Man, you guys are sure worried about those WRXs, Hondas, and other rice cars. They may outrun my Z but I'll bet they won't be around thirty years from now to tell about it.

Well, Chris, you knew what you were getting yourself into when you started this. I understand where Carl is comming from but on the other hand I understand where Alan is comming from. Carl's points are based on American style marketing techniques where as Alan's points are based on reality. And when I hear the term 'Factory' that's is what I think of.....the place where the particular product was assembled. I won't contribute much to this thread because all I know is what I've heard. And what I've heard, I've heard here in America. But, at least for me, you guys are going to have a tough time rationalizing that term-Factory Restoration Program-be it 'silly semantics' or whatever.

Driving is driving and sex is sex. If you are confused between the two, you have serious issues!

Yes, I went for a ride with a guy at one of the shows I have attended. I don't remember his name but he had a SBC in his Z that was set back more than the ones you usually see. I handled just fine. Not that I really care much for V8 Zs but some of those statements about it upsetting the handling are typical examples of 'if you hear something often enough you begin to believe it's the truth.' And I also notice that that kind of stuff seems to come from the younger members here who really haven't been involved with these cars long enough to have a consistent first hand knowlege base. More and more when I come here to browse I read about these 'pipe dream' type projects that if you totalled up the cost for the parts and work that they describe (turbo stroker motors, coil over suspension, Garrett turbos, et. al.), it would be higher than what it will cost for Chris to build 26 & 27. Advice should be based on experience. I don't know, overall, how well V8 Zs handle, so I wouldn't make the statement that they don't handle well based on my one experience. I would imagine that Chickenwafer has no experience with them and is only repeating what he has heard. (Not a knock on you personally-Chickenwafer if anything, just a sweeping generalization based on things I've read hear by other younger members) I also think that alg was just 'having a go at you' with his statement.

Looks to me that you would run into clearance problems with the master cyl, booster, steering column, etc. on a LHD car. Maybe that's why he's selling it. It just seems to me if this is all he says it is and it would fit on his car, he would be using it instead of selling it.

All I get is a dash (-) with the num lock on and an (m) with the num lock off.

Bypassing the heater won't hurt anything on the car. It decreases the total volume of your cooling system a little but not enough to hurt. You won't enjoy driving in cold weather as much, however!

I think you said it better then I did!

The kid that started this thread has probably grown up a little by now considering that it was over two years ago. John Coffey hasn't posted on this site for quite some time now (that's a shame, I'd really rather hear from him then some kid dreaming about having enough horsepower to smoke a Honda). But at any rate I don't think the kid thought he was too stupid or was too embarrased to come back. I think reality just set in. When you return from that vodka-induced fog, the world will still be the same. What kind of logic are you looking for?

The solenoids are for the A/C at least that is what I determined from looking at the FSM. My Z has aftermarket air so it is different and the 810 has more of a ZX type system. That vaccum operated thing you speak of is the BPT valve. I never really knew what it does but the letters stand for Back Pressure Transducer. You can test that by disconnecting the tube from the from the EGR revving the engine again to 3000-3500 rpm and you should feel vaccum on that end of the hose. The car doesn't have to be cold for this test. If you have that little black/brown vaccum delay valve that goes in the vaccum line between the thermal vaccum valve and the BPT valve then you have a former California car. (The brown side faces the front of the engine)

It's that same antipathy you mention that leads to the opinionated and misinformed comments we hear on the Barrett-Jackson broadcasts. Some of the reasoning they use to explain why the Z or other Japaneese cars are not as collectable as it should be is completely contradicted by the fact that the Mustangs, Camaros, Corvettes were produced in larger numbers and still command insane prices. But they can tell you all you would ever want to know about Mustangs, Camaros, etc. And then they always have Alain D. to inform the public about the Euro cars. Letters of complaint have already been sent to Barrett-Jackson also but I'm afraid the result will be about the same as you state.

It's not exactly a hi-res picture plus I blew it up a little. I still think it's the right colour with the effects the lighthing and quality of the picture making it appear to be lighter.

When you say 'thermocheck valve' are you referring to the 'thermal vaccum valve?' You can check that by starting the car cold, disconnecting the hose from the BPT valve, and holding the end of the hose while revving the engine up to 3500-4000 rpm. This must be done while the engine is cold. There should be no vaccum at that point. If there is vaccum at that point the thermal vaccum valve needs to be replaced. That's a fun little job that requires draining out a little coolant before you remove the valve.

Actually, that rear panel looks to be the correct color for a 73. It just doesn't stand out in the picture against the silver paint on the rest of the car.

That is why my EGR is still hooked up on both cars. It runs, it runs right, it starts up, cold or hot, it doesn't run rich, and it passes smog. My F.I. system doesn't fail, etc., etc., etc. There might be a lesson somewhere in there.