sblake01

Cleaning out my garage. I have 8 ZX alloy rims, 4 6 spoke, 4 Iron Cross. They all have good caps, the Iron Cross rims are polished! The 6 spokes are in good condition with minor blemishes. I would prefer to sell them to someone local rather than deal with shipping. I'll take $50 for all eight of them. PM me if your interested.

I don't know, Tomo. It doesn't look like there is room for something like that. This would be so much simpler if the latch and striker were designed like the sedans or the ZXs. When I had my 510, I used a latch and cable from a 710 or it might even have been a 810 and it bolted right in in place of the stock latch. Then it was just a matter of installing and routing the cable and mounting the handle assembly.

I know, I know! Just having a bit of fun.

I don't, however, believe that $18700 is 'absolute top dollar' for one of these cars. Not even a 73. I mean that with no disrespect to 73s but I've always heard that the 73 was the least desirable of the 240Zs. I would pay that much and probably more for a pristine, showroom condition, low mileage 240. Any year. My 78, well that's just a driver. But a 240 is a 'collector.' Someday I truly feel that they wil get their due.

IIRC, the difference would be that they are set up for a heavier car. At least, that is what I was told. They'd bolt up but they would probably make a non 2+2 sit higher.

Bill, that's really bold of you! Oh, you meant the Z.

Might be the paint manufacturers code for their equivalent of Datsun #907. Since the ad says 'factory paint' rather than 'original paint', I assume he's saying that it has been repainted. (I always like viewing that paint code chart epecially code #510 :devious:)(Thanks Michael P.)

That must be "surface rust" then in those pictures.

Might as well add me here in So Cal. sblake01@netzero.com

You'll find that it's much more involved than dropping the motor in, moving a trans mount and hooking up the electrical. The cost figures don't seem right. If he spent $2K on the electrical that leaves $2K for the purchase of the engine, trans, and the rest of the parts? If that, along with the hp and performance figures, were true, there would really be "TONS" of us with RBs. In your research you will find it to be more costly and not quite as powerful as your friend states. Search this site for member Cuong Nguyen and you'll find info on his yellow RB powered 240Z.

I met him at the Mossy Nissan Show. Don't know what he's up to because the car looked pretty sweet to me as it was. I guess he's has other plans.

That's also what I read but you both missed my point. Oh well.

That was a hockey player. There are a lot of us here that would not consider that "U.S. Sports."

Don't you mean 195/70R14 and 185/80R14?

The 'Zeddfindings' guy?

The thermotime switch senses coolant temperature. It gets a signal from the starter while cranking. If the temperature is cold enough, I believe below 35 celsius, it sends a signal to the cold start valve which is basically an extra fuel injector used for cold starting only. If the thermotime switch sticks closed, it will continue to send that signal even when warm which will make the fuel mixture rich. Also if the cold start valve leaks it will also cause richness. You really should get a FSM or read through the 'EFI Bible' as it covers the procedure for checking the function of these two items. These are not to only things that can cause richness but it's where I'd start.

Have you looked into the thermotime switch/cold start valve combo? A leaking CSV or a faulty TTS could cause this slight richness you speak of.

No one mentioned it and it may not be as crucial on carbed cars but what thermostat are you running?

Saw one of those in the junkyard a few months back. I'm still kicking myself for not taking it. It has the 280Z type plug if I remember correctly. Will the standard 280 clock knob fit it?

I thought maybe this would be of interest in light of the original intent of this thread. http://www.turbocreations.com/fj20/toms240rs/

Thats the same link I eluded to by leading him to the other thread.

Yeah, I've gotten that one too. Just remember, eBay, or any other above board entity, would not use email as a measure of updating security.

The fit of the MSA covers is okay. They don't leak per se, but they let dirt in and they do get misty on the inside. I have to remove them once in a while and clean them. Never really liked the rubber trim but I think the covers are a nice finishing touch to the lines of the car. I'm looking forward to hls30.com's JDM copies.

You just have to be careful what you buy there. Some of their stuff is okay, some is junk. My small mig welder came from Harbor Freight. It has worked fine for several years. Their impact sockets are junk, especially the thin wall ones. They're are lifetime guaranteed but after returning the 17 mm at least 10 times, I figured what's the use. If you want quality tools you have to pay for that quality.

Check out this thread especially post #2 by webdawg1. Open the second attachment. I think it will help. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15212&highlight=fusible+links