sblake01

My 78 280Z is code 510. It's not on the chart. It's darker than 305 but lighter than 307. I believe it's called medium blue metallic.

I don't know. My Z's first ride home was on a flatbed trailer.

I'll be there but this time with the 320. I don't really go to be in the show. Winning 3 out of the four years I went to Surfside/Turfside is still a surprise to me. I go to enjoy the cars and talk Datsun. See you there.

I would check the fuel pressure regulator before replacing it. Test the fuel pressure ahead of the regulator and if its okay then you're done.

That's classic! I once carried an L20B home in the trunk of a 510. Getting it out is much harder than getting it in!

Even John Morton himself said the carb looked like it should be on a 'cup car.' About Mr. K: I've read many times that he didn't like that name on the Z. He says that himself on the other History Channel show.

Toe up from the flo up (tore up from the floor up) Gassed Tiddly Bent Coasting Smashed Pickled

I think we talked about how that list is incomplete in another thread. No mention of 510 blue which is the color of my 78 or orange for the 260./280 or yellow for the ZZap cars or black for the BPE etc.

Vicky, my 71 510 had that type of seat belt/shoulder belt arrangement.

Did you notice that when they repainted the cars, they removed the '240Z' pillar emblems from the Orange car and put the later pillar emblems on the yellow car? They didn't seem to have the mechanical knowlege unique to the Nissan L engine as evedinced by the difficulty they had with the valve springs. I wonder if they dropped the timing chain? My expectations for this show weren't high to begin with but I guess I'll keep it in my Datsun video collection. Unlike the one the had the MSA show.

The first two pics 'I think' are part of the ASCD (cruise control) the last two are of the carbon canister which is part of the EECS (evaporative emission control system).

I doubt they'd be the same. B210s had 13" wheels.

Those links don't work, at least, not for me.

Water temp sensor, fuel pressure regulator, air regulator, etc. There are a number of things that could cause that type of idle problem on the FI cars, air leaks are just one of them. Go through the FI troubleshooting list in the FSM.

The clutch parts match up with the trans. The flywheel shouldn't make any difference. In other words, with the combination you describe, you shouldn't have any problems.

Could also be the fuel pressure regulator. At what point in the system did you check the fuel pressure?

Like I said before. Several times in this thread. All insurance companies have guidelines, like it or not. When you sign up with them you are entering into a contract. Read those guidelines. If they don't fit your situation don't sign up with them. We can speculate about whether on not they know how you drive your car for ten more pages. Or how lack of use affects a car. Or ways to get around their rules. Or how you do or don't take care of your car. A 17 year old driving back and forth to school and work: classic car insurance is not for you. Those who want to race their cars (however you want define racing): it's not for you. Those who want to get groceries and run other errands: same ol same ol. Taking extra care of your car includes not parking it in the Ralphs or KMart parking lot. No one is 'insinuating' that they take better care of their car than anyone else. I take the same care of all of our cars. The difference is the daily drivers aren't in the garage and the garaged vehicles don't go to work, school, or the store.

And I have also heard that the turbo oil pump uses more hp besides not actually increasing the oil pressure. Your low reading could simply be a bad sender or guage.

Carl, I understood the point of this thread when I first read it. Too bad you have to defend your point of view to those who dont get it and I have come to the conclusion on this site that the more you try to defend the more muddled it all becomes. How is this political? You are simply listing names of those killed in action. They do deserve our support. Lots of people are spouting off thier political views here as if they have the answer. I know I don't. That is why I won't partake in such a discussion. We all disagree enough already when it comes to the cars.

I haven't had a claim in the 6 years I've been with Hagerty. I also use the vehicles pretty much as they outline. Not because that's how it's set up but because that's just how I drive them. Shows, club meets, etc. along with an occaisional drive to lunch with my wife on Wednesdays. You determine how you use your car. Again, I say, if you have any reservations, it's probably not for you.

To me, it's pretty simple. If you have a need to do things with your vehicle other than the general outline for usage as stated by Hagerty or Grundy, don't get that type of insurance. They don't expect you to have a purpose built show car but they do expect you to treat your car with more concern and caution than you would a daily driver. That is why one of the requirements is that each liscensed driver in the household has a vehicle that is covered by a regular insurance carrier. They (the classic-type carriers) are giving you a policy for a value you set and charging you about one tenth of what a regular carrier would charge. You would expect the guidelines to be somewhat strict. If you have any reservations about that then classic car insurance is not for you.

Thanks, for the heads-up. I've been a AAA member for 20 years and never thought of them for this type of insurance. I'll check it out and compare it to the coverage I presently have from Hagerty on my Z and L320.

FSM=Factory Service Manual. I believe the other part your are referring to is the thermotime switch. It sends the signal to the cold start valve.

Well, Jerrod, I guess if I could think back that far, I'd remember that that is the same way I learned how to work on them. :classic: