sblake01

I think that was 2002. I remember him asking why there was no 'HoneyBee' class.

Interesting article. A couple of things stand out. 'Designed specifically for the American market.' I guess that can be debated until dooms day. I don't really care, I'm just happy that it was designed, period. 'Designed in part by Albrect Goertz...,' everthing I've ever read and heard with any credibility seems to indicate that he had very little if anything to do with the design. 'With the eventual demise of the 260Z, the larger-engined 280Z and 280ZX were released but buyers were by then starting to tire of the car and its "ladies hairdresser" image.' although you never got the 280Z in Australia. And as for the 'Datsun Sports Roadster' being the 'fore-runner' of the Z, well that's kind of a stretch IMO. It did precede the Z but the Z does kind of stand alone.

We all remember what happened to gas prices here right after 9-11.

Driving a Z regardless of that. . . .priceless! (I'm sorry, I couldn't resist)

No. I have tested them by just plugging it in without actually mounting it. The two red wires are just for the warning buzzer. Jumping the starter shouldn't cause the solenoid to act up. From what you say about it just clicking when you turn the key I think the solenoid was already bad. There may be a ground issue because turning the key should have the same effect as jumping the solenoid.

$2.39 for 87 and $2.59 for 91 and still, apparently, climbing. (10/18/04)

Like I said, seek help or it could get frustrating and costly.

Mine had a GA16DE with a 5 spd. Better than a E16 but no match for the SR20DE/DET. I had a Jim Wolf intake on mine with the 96 Sentra cams, a tricked out ECU and a header. Ran pretty good. The price was right ($800US) at the auction and I put maybe $600 more into it in parts and work but I'm just not a FWD type of guy. Sold it for $2800!

If you're just pulling the cam, the 'dizzy' (I hate that term for a distributor) stays in. Use a chain wedge on the cam chain before you remove the bolt and pulley. If you use the mark on the pulley as a guide you wont have to mess with the dist., oil pump, or any of that madness. Talk to some people that have done it before you start tearing things apart. It's not a job for a beginner. Could get frustrating and costly.

You say in your eBay ad that it's similar(?) to the manuals for other years of Z's? If it's a 72 manual then it's only for a 72.

Well, I know you don't want to hear it, but the cam can be removed without doing all of that. None of that stuff i.e. oil pump, fan, dist, timing plate, chain, would have to be removed.

They are wierd! I had a 91. No sunroof but I just couldn't get past that shape!

One area to look at also is the themotime switch/cold start valve. A stuck closed thermotime switch or a leaking cold start valve will cause the car to run rich.

Oh, no! :eek:

Just a hunch since I've had it happen on both of my L engine f.i. cars. Check the temperature sensor. That's the one on the water neck closest to the distributor. A bad connection there can cause the symptoms you've described. It could also be a bad temp sensor I guess but cleaning the connection cured the problem on both of my cars.

Haynes calls it a 'bonnet stay'

In Florida, they require the car's color to be on the registration? Not so in California. And, don't worry Vicky, this thread is already off topic. We went from sun/targa tops to Supras to paint jobs.

I've used both Brasso and No Touch Auto Glass Stripper. They both will remove most any kind of stains/residue but they don't do anything about scratches and pits.

How long would that motor live with a 9.5 c.r. and 16psi boost?

Tires can dry rot, even from the inside. If I buy a vehicle that has been sitting for a long period of time, one of the first things to be replaced is the tires, no matter how good they look. They may have been repaired or full of slime/seal-n-air, etc. It's just not worth the hassle.