sblake01

The one you want is probably different from this one but I thought it was worth a look. These are for a 77-79 810 and are available at http://www.oem-surplus.com/nwp/index.htm on the bottom of the 810 page.

That looks like the wheel that was used in the US on the second generation 200SX. I think the model was the S110. I believe that it was part of the 'Silvia' line. I had one a few years back and it had wheels that looked like those. Mine was a 1981 so the wheels may have just looked similar.

Panchovisa, I hear you. I got it from the time this thread began, basically. That is why this is my one and will be my only post in this thread.

Since it really doesn't matter at this point, all I'm going to say is that wearing a helmet might have saved his life. Wearing seat belts has saved lives. Beyond that I will not 'miss a perfect opportunity to keep my mouth shut' as one of our members so accurately stated.

I'm going partly from memory here because I haven't owned a 240 for some years but I do own a 280. If I recall correctly the 72 fuse box is in the console and has 10 fuses. The 260 and 280 fuse box is located below the facia panel and has 14 fuses. There are differences in the circuits protected and the rating of the fuses. The later cars also have fusible links for additional protection for the starting and charging circuits. Earlier cars had amp guages while the later ones had voltmeters. I don't know how that would be affected by the fuse box but I think it would also tie in. A swap would take more expertise and patience than I have but I guess anything can be done. MSA sell and upgraded fuse box for the 70-73. It's a direct plug-in and uses a printed circuit board with spade type fuses. It's available with long or short pigtails. They get $160 for it but I'll tell you what. . .if they made one for a 78 it would already be in my car!

SU's are the standard side draft, single venturi carbs used on the 240 and 260 here in the US. Actually they are 'SU style' carbureators manufactured by Hitachi for use on Datsuns. If I reacall correctly SU stands for 'Skinners Union.' I think that is the company in England that originally made them for use on Jaguars, MGs, Triumpths, etc. We refer to the Datsun carbs as SUs but they are actually Hitachis.

Do you have the 40300-R4671 wheels? If so those caps were available last time I checked which was about 5 months ago at http://www.nismoparts.com. I'd like to have a spare set for my 810 and have recently emailed them again to check availability. If so, I can let you know what I find out.

I do believe that the 77 was the last of the externally regulated cars. My 78 is internally regulated and I recall that when I replaced it the application said 78-83. If you look at the back of your alternator, that is the one you removed, you can see the voltage regulator through the slots. It's held in place by two 12mm nuts spaced 2" apart. If you don't see that then it's externally regulated. Vicky and Scott (ZRush) have a 77. Maybe they can help here.

The T-5 was used in the turbo ZX because it was thought to be stronger than the other 5 spds. I know guys with turbo cars and the regular (non t-5) 5 spd that aren't having any problems. I guess it's all in how you drive. It looks like the 80s or 90s Mustang 5.0 trans with a different bell housing. The only T-5 car I ever drove seemed less precise in it's shifting than the Nissan trans. Maybe I wasn't used to it or it was worn.

The Borg Warner T-5 would have a removable bell housing and a different shift lever mechanism.

Most of the newer cars (newer than a 1st gen Z) have 'overdrive' automatic transmissions of one form or another. Since the highest gear is higher (lower numerically) than 1-1, it will offer little or no resistance when coasting downhill unless the manufacturer has designed in something to address this as in the case of the above mentioned BMW.

I've yet to figure out why this site displays perfectly on my old computer (win98se) but not on the others (winme, winxp). Except on the old garage computer, I get the same overlap/obscuring problem that others speak of.

When you say 'dual webers' (one are you referring to DGV's? If so, that is probably the source of your discomforture. If you have the downdrafts, I've yet to see a pair of those outperform triple sidedrafts or even a properly set up pair of SU's.

As far as I know, it has nothing to do with pressure. The only thing those caps monitor is fluid level.

Rick, you'll have to read the other thread. There's a link to it in post #16 in this thread. Gary is back, however, I'm glad to say and I think we've all learned from this.

What year is the 280? The 77-78 tank is larger and would be harder to install in a 260 than a 75-76 tank. Make sure you get all of the relays and brackets from the 280. Really study the FSM and note the differences between the 260 and the 280. I prefer the 5 spd especially for daily driving. Good luck.

Looks like a 610 (180B)

Well said Michael! Works for me. Kind of like a modern interpretation of the serenety prayer.

Gary's parting shot is comment #26 on page 2 of that thread.

I see your point Carl. After 7 years I guess I'm used to the 280 even though I have owned a 70 and a 72 in the past. The 810, being a 79, has even more gadgets on it, and I catch myself complaining about that when I drive it. We won't even mention Daisey's Infiniti!

I'd still check the caps. Been through that. Unplug them from the system and check the connectors on the wires on the caps for continuity. They should be continuous when the pucks are down and not when the pucks are up. Those caps aren't 'funky.' They do let you know if you're low on fluid.