sblake01

And we are talking about cars here or at least we were, not airplanes or motorcycles.......

Why? Aren't your cars, though very nice, somewhat modified in a few other ways like wheels, 'da twin stax', etc.? Do you really have intentions of someday turning either or both of them back to completely stock?

esmit208, I could be mistaken but I could have sworn that I heard someone say that shop is closed.

It's a 73 with a 280Z engine but has the stock 73 intake setup....

I've never been in favor of crimp joints. I've always used the higher tin content solder for electrical connections and shrink wrapped them. Never had any problems.

I guess you'd be right when you say it would likely never become an issue because I've soldered wires smaller than 8 ga on cars over the last 40+ years witiout any problem.

Will these work? They're spares from my 78 and in pretty good shape. I even have the nuts that go with them.

EDIT: Disreagard post, I just looked in Kim's photos and it does have factory air which makes moot the questions I deleted from this post.

I made my own gauge from hardware store stuff. Much less costly than the over the counter gauge. I never saw a need to 'install' a fuel pressure gauge as I would only use it for testing purposes.

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I saw a 77 or 78 280Z in the San Bernardino Pick A Part last Friday but you know how quickly things can be gone at the self service yards.......

A re-skinned roof and a V8 swap? Isn't the roof one of the areas that flexes under power/torque? First step would (should) be to get the car in safe driving condition and then evaluate the rust (there will be rust!) and see if you have something there that could be used for a V8 swap (with the proper setup/fabrication/reinforcement).

No, those are purpose built racing engines with a couple of application for street rods/customs.

That's what I was thinking.......

I'm sure that Stant (NAPA) has several that will fit your 76 but the FSM calls for the same three I mentioned in the other post. Same for all 260/280Zs from 1974-1978.

According to the FSM, standard is 180, for cold areas-190, and for tropical areas-170. I always ran a 180 in my 78 280Z and in my 79 810.

For some people spacers would 'fix' the problem. For me I'd get wheels that fit and work properly without spacers.

Well, maybe just positive enough to rub the front springs. High positive offset as found in a front wheel drive rim and they wouldn't even bolt on an S30.

According to the factory service manuals, 81 only got the 60 amp, NA or Turbo but in 82 and 83, the NA got the 60 amp while the Turbo did the get the 70 amp.

You'll feel that way until you get into the swap.....

The voltage should read in the 14+ range. The internal regulator part of the alternator is likeky malfunctioning so you'd have to replace the entire alternator. 'Back in the day' I used to have a source for the i.c. regulator module that goes in it but I haven't seen those for sale anywhere in years. 81 280ZX's all had a 60 amp alternator, turbo or NA.

The wheel offset is an aspect of the particular wheel; has nothing to do with how it was mounted. I had 225/60R14 on my 78 which was also lowered and the tires didn't rub.

I know the feeling.......

Even if you did find one, what do you intend to do for rods, pistons? I think you need to do a lot more research.

And don't let the Black Pearl aspect play a role in your decision. That car is a long way from where being a Black Pearl would even matter.....