sblake01

Must be the collapsible like mine.

Go the the upper left corner of this page and click in the box that says 'click here'.

Well, in the microfiche, the part numbers are the same 70-73.

Warranty information? ROFL

After looking it up on the microfiche, here's what I found. The two seaters use the same door glass up to 6/76 build date but the regulators are unique to the 70-73 240Z.

I would think the 260 2 seater regulator and window would fit. As far as the 280, I doubt it. There are differences in the internal door design between the 240 and 280.

On BMW's they call it the 'auxiliary air valve' but every Datsun manual I've seen calls it the air regulator. In 'Haynes' it's shown in the fuel flow diagram on pg. 222. The FSM gives a better description.

The point I left out earlier in this thread is that the thermotime switch/cold start valve combination only helps start the car. It only injects the fuel from the csv when you crank the car. After it starts the thermotime/csv are through. The fast idle/warm up is controlled by the air regulator. If the air regulator is not working properly, your car will run like a cold carbureated car with no choke.

Is your air regulator functioning properly? That is, when you start it cold, do you get a fast idle (1100-1200rpm) that gradually lowers to normal as the engine warms?

The part numbers are 16578-N4710 for the hose and 31086-20301 for the dipstick. Check with Chloe at http://midwestz.com or check http://www.nismoparts.com. You could also find these at the junkyard but I'd carefully check any hose you might find there.

Once the engine starts or when the engine is warm, the thermotime switch and cold start valve have no affect on performance unless there is a problem with one or both.

The ratios are as follows: 78 (FS5W71B) 1st-3.321, 2nd-2.077, 3rd-1.308, 4th-1.000, 5th-0.864. 82 (FS5W71B) 1st-3.321, 2nd-2.044, 3rd-1.408, 4th-1.000, 5th-0.752. Off the line performance would be about the same though 2nd in the late trans is slightly higher, and third is lower. I really don't notice much difference in second and my car pulls slightly better in third than the stock trans but that fifth gear drops the engine down to a nice low cruising rpm on the freeway and does yield better gas mileage. And added plus is that my stock trans was cast iron and the late trans is aluminum. Anything that saves weight on a 280 is a good thing!

Nothing, I guess. Since the roadster carbs are not 'mirror image' like these, but I thought there weren't enogh intake runners in the picture for a 6 cyl. Maybe L series 4 cyl SSS?

And I think we all know that. I don't ever 'forget my wallet when I run out of my house' and the proof of insurance card is in each vehicle. In California, they don't dismiss these charges if you show up in court with the appropriate paper work. You were still 'driving without a liscense and proof of insurance' and they will fine you accordingly. There are no 'fix it' tickets. Every v.c. code violation here has a fine. And you never know when or why you are going to get pulled over. When I was still working at Ralph's, I used to hit the 'sobriety check point' at least twice a month. They would check everything. Knowing that, why take the chance? It can't be too much different in the other states. California just happens to be one of the more greedy ones.:mad:

Isn't that a roadster setup? (I'm not going to comment on the other picture):sick:

It's just a matter of prefference. Lower 1st gear or higher 5th gear. I have a 82 trans in my 78 and it requires no modification which is to say the the hole you cut in your 70 would work for both of them. Unless the ZX trans is a T5.

They don't fail very often but they seem to have a tendency to be bad on cars that have sat for a long time without being started. The temperature is not as important as the signal. The one I'm looking as says 35 deg. C.-8 sec. Meaning that if the temp is below 35 the signal will be sent for 8 sec. If the temp is above 35 the signal won't be sent. When they stick they continue to send the signal and the car will run rich to the point of being undrivable because of the extra fuel.

The go on a bracket on the passenger side kick panel next to the fuse box.

The cold start valve gets it's signal from the thermotime switch if the engine is cold enough when you turn the ignition to the start position. The signal only lasts for about 8 seconds then the thermotime switch opens. If you're still getting fuel from the cold start valve at that point then it's leaking. But that is rare. Usually, the culprit in that circuit is the thermotime switch. Disconnecting the cold start valve only eliminates that part of the cold start system. Check the two terminals on the thermotime switch for continuity when the car is warm. If you have continuity at that point then the switch is bad. Richness can also be caused by the AFM being out of adjustment.

THANK YOU, MICHAEL!

First of all, I wasn't commenting on your post but rather a conglomeration of what I had read up that point. Yours just happened to be the last one at that point. You can read Mike's original post however you wish. To me, he's talking about Z's. IMO! You can continue to personally attack me if you get some kind of enjoyment from that. I wasn't attacking you nor will I. It's not my nature. But I will say that I am retired, very secure in my life and have no need to prove anything to anyone about who I am. I am more than done with this!

I hear you, Steve! They made you do it but if you didn't, I would have! Maybe not quite as dramatically.

That's cool, I guess, if you like that sort of thing. I don't know if it has any real place on this site. There are many other wonderful cars in this world but we tend to focus on the 70-78 Z. I'm not knocking your or anyone else's taste in cars, to each his own. I just don't think this is the place.

With the proper extension (about 8"), socket and ratchet, you can get that bolt from the top. I have never had to get under the car to remove the starter on any L-engined car I've ever owned.

inline 6, I have a relay here. It's from a 240Z with a manufacture date of 9/71. It's rectangular with a two hole mounting bracket. It has a four prong male connector. The wires are yellow (or white) w/ black stripe, blue w/red stripe, black, and black w/red stripe. It says "JIDECO JAPAN" on the side opposite the mounting bracket. I can't see any numbers on it but it came from the location in the car as you decribed. If that's your relay, you can have it for postage.