sblake01

My guess would be 'B' simply because of the changes that would have to be made to flip the shift pattern. I've never heard of an RHD trans or a LHD trans. Correct me if I'm wrong. I'm sure those of you 'across the pond' can clear this up.

That site has been up for over a year and has never been very active. It is somehow tied to Too Intense Restoration.

Is the click from your starter or from the relay box?

I don't know of a way to test them. I always do my testing with known good ones. I can check them for continuity and get back to you with the results,but I don't know if that would tell the whole story since resistance is involved and in order to test that I think they would have to be energized. Maybe someone out there can respond if they know of an accurate way to test relays because I would also like to know.

The dashboard in 'very good condition 9.5 out of 10' has a cap on it. If it 'sat inside for over 30 years' that would pretty much cover it's entire life. Why the repaint? 'Found in the basement of my uncles house'. Every basement I have ever seen had no way to drive a car into it!

Bill and Keith, I saw that one coming!

He has changed the description too. Automatic trans? He really doesn't know what he's doing. I emailed him and he was pretty snotty with his answers. I hate to wish anyone ill will but I hope he ends up eating this one!

Well, mine is a 78 California car and it has no oxygen sensor. Nor was I able to find one on the microfiche or in the FSM.

Purchased straight from Japan and it's an HLS30?

I thought about one until I read this http://www.landiss.com/battery.htm

It doesn't.

Sticking a wrench in your AFM is NOT causing your fuel pressure to build. I suspect that you have a clog or blockage somewhere along with electrical problems that are effecting you fuel pumps' operation. It's really hard to diagnose without going through the steps. You have to confirm each thing step by step rather than guessing and replacing parts based on those guesses. When I had this problem it turned out to be a clogged gas tank but first I had to replace a bad fuel pump relay. Under the hood there are two relays that affect fuel pump operation (see pictures in other post) and there is also the ingition relay in the bracket on the passenger side kick panel which energizes those relays. When I worked on my car, I had the luxury of being able to take these relays from a properly operating car and plug them into mine one by one until I found which one was bad. At that point I knew the fuel pump was working and was able to determine that my tank was bad. It could be that if you have a relay problem and correct it that you don't have the tank problem. But you have to go through the steps.

There is no single air dam that will fit all three (240-260-280) without modification.

That's the thing about ebay sometimes. It's already up to more than it would cost at MSA if you include shipping and there's still 3 1/2 days to go.

I believe that is because the value of a TMU car is difficult to establish.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=79937#post79937 and see how we helped work out Holly's problem on the 1st page up to the point where we started talking about u joints.

If you'll sell me the center (centre?) caps on the wheels in your avitar I won't reply to your cheap shot!:classic:

No, panchovisa. What I meant is that evidently we were responding at the same time and your reply came through first. When I noticed that I went back and added the line about you being a faster typist.

Where on the engine is this located? Is it on the intake manifold just ahead of the EGR valve with a vacuum hose between the two? The 75-76 had those but on the 77-78 it is replaced by the BPT valve. Let me know if thats the part and I'll look around and see if I have one.

Wait a minute! What would it be leaking? A 78 Z has manual rack and pinion steering. There is no fluid running through it. I think you are being scammed. (evidently panchovisa types faster than me!)

That ain't just a 510. That's a KH510 Bluebird. It would cost much more than that to find and refresh such a car to the point that this one seems to be at. Lots of goodies! Fairly rare especially here in the states.

I, too, am glad to have been of help. But the reason I am quoting Kieth is that unless your 78 has been fitted with an after market replacement driveshaft, the u-joints would be the sealed unreplacable type. I went through this on my 78 but I lucked into a driveshaft with good u-joints at the junkyard about 3 years ago. Motorsports Auto sells a replacement driveshaft with replacable u-joints. You can also use a 72-74 driveshaft in a 78 and then you'll have replacable u-joints. Of course, if you mean the half shaft u-joints please disregard my ramblings because they are replacable.

Here is a scan of the frame chart from the 1978 280Z FSM. Hope it came out clear enough.

Has anyone ever heard of or seen this carb on a Z? In the Haynes manual it says "Early 240Z and 260Z cars without emission control are fitted with a 'DAF' dual barrel type carburettor. This unit is of downdraught, fixed jet design and incorporates an accelerator pump and power valve." The Brittish spelling leads me to believe that they were not equipped that way here. I could post pictures if anyone would like but this is basically just to satisfy my curiousity.

According to 'Haynes' the supplimentary electric fuel pump was fitted to 260Z models. But I have also seen the same exact factory installed pump on 73 240Z's.