sblake01

Well, to confuse things even more, I went to the junkyard and this is what I found: Four 280s-11/76, 1/77, 8/77 and 11/77 all had the ones mdbrandy pictured. One 260-5/74 had the same ones as mine which is 5/78. They were all coupes no 2+2s.

I pre registered and was there at 7:15. I would think that pre registration would at least get you a spot on the main street.

Me too. But this year I think I'll just park and look. I don't like paying and then being parked on a side street with a bunch of beat up 510's etc. If this is a 'Z' show why not leave the Roadsters, 510s, trucks, etc. at home! (End of vent)

The paint code and coolant decals are on the radiator support just ahead of the passenger side of the radiator. The head number is on the bottom of the head between cylinders 1 & 2, the engine nunber is on the top of the block between cylinders 5 & 6. The trans, diff, etc. I'd have to look.

There's also the one under the hood behind the strut tower. It has car type (HLS30), engine capacity, max h.p. @ rpm, wheel base, engine type, & chassis #. The one billramsey2002 mentions had the manufacture date (m/Y), GVW, GVW F & R, Federal safety standards compliance statement, VIN, and type of car (passenger).

At this point, I'm the only 'niether'. Never been much of a open-wheeled racing fan. I like to watch cars race that somewhat resemble cars you might see on the street. That's why I don't care much for anything above Pro Stock in drag racing, why I like NASCAR (I did say 'somewhat' resemble), why I like Aussie V8 Supercars, etc.

I don't like the sound of 'tiny bubbles in the oil"! Could be a head gasket which would also be the cause of your overheating. Are there bubbles in the coolant or any evidence of coolant in the oil or vice versa? I'm not that knowledgeable on auto trannys but I doubt if it could be the cause of your overheating problem. (Somebody check me here if I'm wrong)

To Australia?

Could be fuel filter, gas tank, or anywhere inbetween. I would start with a fresh fuel filter to rule it out and run the fuel pressure test that is in the fsm if the problem still exixts. How long did the car sit before you purchased it?

Mine are different from mdbrandy's. The do come apart so that you can get to the headlight. Three 10mm bolts and two phillips screws. Mine is a 78 if that make any difference.

I believe these are the two pieces TomoHawk spoke of. Actually they are four pieces since they come apart for headlight removal. Mine are in really decent shape. Unscientific research in the junkyards seem to inicate that the were on the 74 1/2 260 through the 78 280 as the earlier cars didn't have the holes for them. Didn't see any good ones in the yards I went to. They all seemed to be pretty well thrashed. All this talk has made me remove mine and clean them up!

P. T. Barnum was right!!

Keith, how do you link a previous thread to a reply? I was attempting to figure out how and you beat me to it!

:stupid: Duh! I have a 78 with those liners. I actually went to the car and took them off to look for what I thought TomoHawk was talking about! I don't know what years they came on and I didn't find them on the microfiche either but they are on my 78 which is a California car.

Tomohawk, are you talking about a clear or smoked plastic headlignt cover? I don't mean the aerodynamic type that you see on many Zs but the type that is round and fits over the lignt itself? I used to have some of those on my truck but they were aftermarket.

26029-E4600 COVER-HEAD LAMP (RUBBER) Qty. req. 2 That's the part if you are reffering to the rubber covers that go over the prongs on the headlights before you plug the connector in. I belive that they were on all Z cars originally but may have been lost in the shuffle over the years.

Heeeeey aah . . . . moderator? Oh, moderator, you out there?:sick: :sick:

Are those available for the Datsun/Nissan auto trans?

Yeah, I re-read the thread up the here and I don't get it either!

What 280zx Fever is saying is that downdrafts are less efficent on an L engine because of the sharp turn the fuel mixture must make. On a 'V' engine the fuel mixture goes down into the heads. Sidedrafts send the fuel mixture in a straight shot as does the Bosch type fuel injection. Plus the Weber, Mikuni, or Delortos give you one barrel per cylinder.

I should have stated that I was talking about using oil on closed lug nuts. Like the lug nuts on the 280/280Z alloys, the chrome acorns on the steel wheels on my truck etc. The only time I ever use open lug nuts is when I put the temp. spare on my Z or 810 which is hardly ever. But, we are getting away from the gist of this thread. What is the best way to remove siezed lug nuts without ruining the studs? I and assuming that he means open lug nuts since there would be no way to oil closed ones. I always used a long 1/2" drive breaker bar with a short extension and my Snap-On double ended lug nut socket. Even then, if they are really badly siezed, as in this case, you are still running the risk of breaking one or two as stated by LanceM. Leading to the next topic: 'Replacing broken studs'. :classic:

Very nice car. One I wouldn't mind owning if I were in the market for another Z. But here we go with that term 'restored' again. I'm not knocking the car, just it's description. How does a 'restored' car win 'Street Modified Class'? 'All original except for . . . ' that list is a lot longer than what the article mentions. Still in all, this is a great looking car and I would feel more comfortable driving it than one that was properly 'restored'.

3-in-1 oil has always worked for me. I just put a few drops on each stud whenever I remove a lug nut and I've never had a problem removing them. Antisieze would probably be more effective but this has always worked.

Okay, I got it.

I agree. Clean threads, a little 3-in-1 oil, 65 lbs/ft torque, and NEVER use an impact gun. I've never broken a stud but I've reapaired a lot of broken studs for other people!