sblake01

Essentially, the Thermotime Switch/Cold Start Valve/Air Regulator combination on a F.I. car functions similar to an automatic choke on a carbureated car

They are listed under 'Dealer Installed Accesories' in the 1978 showroom brochure as Bumper guards (front and rear). Also on that list were, Factory mag-type wheels, Air Conditioning (which would be the dealer installed ARA system), CB radio, AM/FM stereo (cassette or 8-track), rear window shade, side moldings, smuggler tonneaus (I'd like to ge ahold of one of those!), side stripes, floor mats, racing mirrors, and shift knobs. The only 'factory' options in 78 were the 5-speed, the automatic trans, and factory air (on the coupe).

Which I never understood since all a thief would have to do is unplug the electrical connector from the back of the switch and connect it to another ignition cylinder or just hot wire it from there.

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Gotta love a 'Steven Wright' quote!

Twice! Is that kinda like 'Listen to the words coming out of my mouth?'

I thought you might find this interesting. http://www.jasonjarvis.com

Yeah, in Washington state! If it doesn't sell soon I wonder how much that will change his claim of 'some rust on the floors by the drivers and passenger feet but not on the rest of the body?'

There a bit too common over here too.

Sorry Mark. Did I miss that line or did he add it in his revision?

Read it again guys. He never says that its running.

Will, I think that what you propose would still be considered tampering by the 'ebay police' in that you would have to see that they are bidding on a Z in order to contact them. As far as the sellers go, unfortunately, it seems that there are many whose sole purpose is to sell the car and will use whatever methods necessary to accomplish that. I was actually told that when I emailed the seller of the 'One and only 280ZX racing edition' if you remember that one from last year. It's like anything else. This has turned into and big and rather unscrupulous business. The seller doesn't have to substantiate his claims. How many times have you seen 'to the best of my knowledge' or 'as far as I know' etc. in those ads. That's why in a fairly recent transaction, well chronicled here, my advice was that you have to seperate the ebay seller from the commercial business owner if he happens to be both. Two different games, two different sets of rules. We can't fix it. We need to just leave it alone! (MY last post on this thread)

This is an interesting thread. It has gone from differentials types to differential ratios to automatic trans problems to A/T to 5 spd conversions. You'll have to bypass the inhibitor wiring which is there to keep the car from starting in any forward gear or reverse with the A/T, you'll need the innter and outer shift boots, as well as the things that you and Ed mention. The console is the same you just need the shift boot and clips for the stick. I think we've left something out but it's been so long since I did such a conversion. That speed thing earlier in the thread kind of worries me, however. Unless the problem is in you trans, it won't go away just because you convert to a 5 spd.

He's talking about a carbureated car so he wouldn't have one of those. But why pay $100 for a temp sensor? That's why I pick up extra parts like the temp sensor, cold start valve, thermotime switch, etc. when I'm at the junkyard. Since they generally have no clue what those parts are, they cost next to nothing. I take them home and test them and keep the good ones. I never pay Nissan (Renault) dealer prices for anything!

It is listed as a 'parts car'. Reading his description, I don't think he's trying to pull the wool, he just doesn't know! Missing a lot of parts. I don't think he'll get $1500.

I'd have to agree with ZmeFly. Each one of the things you mention have a negative effect on the cars performance when non-functional. Some more than others. So, if you remove them all, what do you intend to do to compensate? The troubleshooting charts would be useless since many performance problems can be traced to malfunctions of these devices.

Carl, you and I may have had a difference of opinion on an issue or two in the past but I am in total concurrence with you on this one! Unsolicited advice to potential ebay buyers is not only against ebay rules but it's an invasion of privacy. I'ts not much different from the telemarketers who get you name from wherever and call you with 'better' deals for your mortgage. I don't have a problem with emailing the seller with my concerns although I know I probably won't get the response I might expect. But that's still between he and I. Once you become a 'third party' in these deals, you have entered a shady area and you do become somewhat 'big brother-esque'. Better that the potential buyer does his own research on sites like this or wherever he feels he can get good information to substantiate or dispell the sellers claims.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=79937#post79937 Click back to page one and read down until we start talking about u-joints. There are a couple of pictures that show relay location.

Would that be the 'Goertz' car? Everything I ever read about it was negative!

That's good. It means that your ignition relay is good and you can rule it out as part of the problem. But I think you already have since my reply was a couple of days ago.

I have a couple of those too. How do you know it's bad? Did you check the two terminals (while cold) for continuity?

I know that Perth is a lo . . . . . . . ng way from Fontana, California, but if you don't find one there let me know and maybe we ca work something out as I have 5 or 6 working ones in my parts bin. You're sure that your csv is bad and not the Thermotime switch?

My understanding could get it! He does the same thing over there in Japan that ebay sellers do over here. Prey on the uninformed, the unsuspecting, the unknowlegeable, etc.

Are they saying that they have found and are in the process of restoring 'Big Sam'?