sblake01

So you didn't 'do a carfax' as you said. Out of curiousity, what Nissan dealer would keeps records for a 31 year old car?

I've never heard of that. How often is (was) that actually done?

How would you have been able to run a Carfax on a 1980? Carfax requires a 17 digit VIN which didn't start until the 1981 model year.

I agree! Nice work.

Your car is a 280ZX so this may or may not exatcly apply in every detail but on a 280Z you open the hood, remove the wiper arms and blades, remove the four screws that hold the cowl, lift it up slightly and pull forward.

I'm not arguing. Everyone knows what they are comfortalbe with and what works for them. I'm just throwing it out there (like everone else). It becomes somewhat anecdotal especially when we start discussing what someone else recommends. Keep in mind that my vehicles don't have to survive freezing winters so what works here for me may or may not be as effective in Minnesota or Midwest, USA or in any climate different than where my experiences are based on.

Well a 40+ year Datsun owner/enthusiast recently told you about Sta Bil........

I always tried to keep them clean. I used CRC 5078 Throttle Body and Air-Intake Cleaner. You can get that at most auto parts stores.

Not saying it's bad; I've used both. Sta Bil is a 'purpose built' fuel stabilizer while Sea Foam is a multipurpose fuel treatment. You can use either but I prefer to clean with Sea Foam and store with Sta Bil.

That's the second mention of Sea Foam as a storage agent. Why wouldn't you use a product like Sta Bil which is made for storage. Seafoam is a cleaner/motor treatment (whatever that part of the description means) while Sta Bil is fuel stabilzer. It's made to be used in stored vehicles while Sea Foam is designed to be run through the system. Different products for different uses......

It's part of the emission control system. It reduced the amount of advance in 4th and 5th.

The later five speeds have switches that operate the spark timing control in 4th and 5th gear. If you hook the reverse light leads up to one of those, that would cause the reverse lights to come on in the corresponding gear.

Actually, it was always about the water temperature switch. kjphilippona changed it in post #26 and justfun13 actually put it back on topic in post #28......

Mat, I've seen that story a couple of times including on Carl's site. As far as any validity, I don't know...... http://zhome.com/History/Ford/Ford.htm Due to the censor, I guess you'd have to type 'D1CK Avery'.....

Never heard of on with an "L" could that possibly be a "C"? Anyway, all of the cams have pretty much the same grind as this chart shows: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/cam/index.htm

That's a Road Signature/Maisto, right? I have a green one with butterscotch interior kind of like a replica of Chris's cars (26 & 27)

Just picked up this yellow 510/Bluebird at Target yesterday.

The seller mentions Rick Morgan's car in his ad. (HLS30-00013) As well as Jim Fredrick's. (HLS30-00016)

The OP hasn't been here since the day he made those posts.............

I think the only way to fix that is to replace the cowl.....

Can that actually be done on a unibody setup like an S30?

Here's a link to one of many links on the subject: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21274

I guess we have a MikeW and a Mike W.....

Not in any sense of the term 'cheap'.

If you didn't have timing problems with your stock distributor, your problem has to be what Bill and Bob mentioned in posts 7 and 8.