sblake01

I don't know if it would be the same as your 76 but I can attach a picture of the relay bracket from my 78 FSM. Does anyone know if there would be a difference?

I like the 'original' rear strut tower brace in the 72 and the 'original' dish mags. The 71 even has the 'original' orange accents on its wheels.:classic:

brianglawson, are you sure you've seen this engine in a Z? Remember, it's a 4 cylinder.

Don't vent it, that's actually illegal in some states. If it is R12, and it must be unless your 73 has been converted, it is very expensive. Unless you have a leak, it should all still be in the system. It can be captured but you need a tank and someone with the expertise. Call around and see what an a/c specialist would charge to do that. You'll probably have to pay for the tank and his labor but I think the freon is worth keeping.

Phyte, are you sure you meant to post that on THIS site?:eek:

I DON'T THINK SO! LOL

My bad!

It occured to me that I had read a similar thread here last year. So I searched and found it. Mike started a thread called 'Driving Music' last May. Reading through it I came wonder how we could have gone this far without mentioning ZZ Top?

I don't know if the 280ZX injector fan will solve this problem. I have both a 78 280 and a 79 810. Neither have the injector fan. The only time I experienced the problem you describe was on my 810 when the thermotime switch was bad causing the car to inject fuel from the cold start valve everytime I started it regardless of temperature. It would sputter and stumble until this extra fuel was cleared out. That's where I would look first. Test the two terminals on the thermotime switch for continuity. It shouldn't have continuity if the engine is warm. I'm have my doubts about that ZX injector cooler anyway. 75-78 280Zs didn't have it neither did any of the 810s or rwd Maximas. I wonder why Datsun/Nissan thought it was necessary on the ZX. Remember that the ZX was laden with all kinds of gadgets that IMHO were unneccesary.

Hey, at least they're not flourescent!

So, back to my original statement. I still don't really know how it works. But whether it be in BHP, SAE Net, SAE Gross, KW or whatever, I do know more is better!

This is the other side of the calculators. Hope they are of interest. Before someone says it, I need to learn how to put all of the attachments in one post!:stupid:

The next two are of Datsun 'Side Bearing Shim Calculators' front side and backside. They have a 1977 copyright.

Second Scan:

I found these in the junkyard today in the back of a 1980 280ZX. The first two scans are of a 'Datsun Differential Pinion Height & Preload Instructions' pamphlet. It seems to be from late 1976 or early 1977. I thought they might be of interest.

I'm amazed that this keeps coming up. I don't think pulley size is the answer. My 78 with air, stereo, amp, etc. doesn't do this and it has a stock alternator. The problem has to be elsewhere. You spin that alternator faster than it was designed for and you are asking for premature alternator problems IMHO.

I don't remember much about the 70 I had back when I was 19. Afterall, I was a stupid teenager! But I do remember that it didn't have a defroster in the rear window. At what point did they add the defroster? Just curious.

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From what I understand, those pumps are self-priming. If it starts with starting fluid and the dies, check your fuel pump as ChrisA said. It's outside of the tank passenger side. If it is working then you probably have the problem that comes from the car sitting long periods of time. Crud (for lack of a better term) in the tank. When I bought my 280 it had been sitting for four years. We could get it to start but it wouldn't run much beyond and idle. After checking the fuel pump, lines, relays, etc. which all were good we checked the fuel pressure. It was low. It turned out to be clogged passages in the tank from the residue from the fuel sitting for so long. Some people have the tank professionally cleaned out but that can be pricey. I bought one from a car that had just come into the junkyard and the car has been fine (at least in that area) ever since. If you do get to that point make sure you get a tank from the year span that covers your car.

I don't see the 'kw' thing much over here and I'm still trying to figure out how it works. I've used conversion tables to convert kw to hp and vice versa but that still doesn't tell me anything different.

I guess I should have posted a disclaimer. It wasn't my intention but that sure sounds like a 'shameless plug' when I read it.:stupid: