sblake01

Heeeeey aah . . . . moderator? Oh, moderator, you out there?:sick: :sick:

Are those available for the Datsun/Nissan auto trans?

Yeah, I re-read the thread up the here and I don't get it either!

What 280zx Fever is saying is that downdrafts are less efficent on an L engine because of the sharp turn the fuel mixture must make. On a 'V' engine the fuel mixture goes down into the heads. Sidedrafts send the fuel mixture in a straight shot as does the Bosch type fuel injection. Plus the Weber, Mikuni, or Delortos give you one barrel per cylinder.

I should have stated that I was talking about using oil on closed lug nuts. Like the lug nuts on the 280/280Z alloys, the chrome acorns on the steel wheels on my truck etc. The only time I ever use open lug nuts is when I put the temp. spare on my Z or 810 which is hardly ever. But, we are getting away from the gist of this thread. What is the best way to remove siezed lug nuts without ruining the studs? I and assuming that he means open lug nuts since there would be no way to oil closed ones. I always used a long 1/2" drive breaker bar with a short extension and my Snap-On double ended lug nut socket. Even then, if they are really badly siezed, as in this case, you are still running the risk of breaking one or two as stated by LanceM. Leading to the next topic: 'Replacing broken studs'. :classic:

Very nice car. One I wouldn't mind owning if I were in the market for another Z. But here we go with that term 'restored' again. I'm not knocking the car, just it's description. How does a 'restored' car win 'Street Modified Class'? 'All original except for . . . ' that list is a lot longer than what the article mentions. Still in all, this is a great looking car and I would feel more comfortable driving it than one that was properly 'restored'.

3-in-1 oil has always worked for me. I just put a few drops on each stud whenever I remove a lug nut and I've never had a problem removing them. Antisieze would probably be more effective but this has always worked.

Okay, I got it.

I agree. Clean threads, a little 3-in-1 oil, 65 lbs/ft torque, and NEVER use an impact gun. I've never broken a stud but I've reapaired a lot of broken studs for other people!

That's all great stuff, Alan! I am learning the truth about these cars by reading this thread. Each email I have received from VR has been laden with flimsy excuses. They've never actully admitted to me that their car is the wrong car. They told me that some of the cars were LHD which is true but when I told them that this one wasn't the emails from them stopped coming. Maybe someday someone will write a book which will dispell all of the myths that surround not only the Z but Datsuns in general.

It's a tedious process even with the use of an 8" buffing wheel on my bench grinder. It took me about three days of work, off and on, for each wheel. When I did the 'Iron Cross' wheels, they took even longer because of the nooks and crannies. They were actually over done because they have that 'chrome' look. After all of that work, I took them off the car in favor of the earlier '4 spokish' factory alloys. I polished them too but not to the extent of the work done on the Iron Crosses. You can see them both in my gallery.

80 to 84 had them and I think even the 85-88 FWD had the same ones. 16"/4 x 4.5" (114.3mm)

I loved my roadster. I owned it for twenty years! It was a 1970 1600 but I had the 2000 crank, rods, and pistons, reworked S.U.'s, 2000 5spd and console, header, oil cooler, etc. Back when I had it parts were a lot easier to find than they are now. But it was a fun car. It was nice and clean, but I wouldn't call it show quality. I had the hard and soft tops, short and long tonneau covers, and I really miss it! Clutch changes were fun, you had to pull the motor. I had to sort out many electrical gremlins over the time I owned it. If you do find one, make sure it's as complete as possible. In running condition would be a plus. But I don't think it would be a 'cheap' endeavor.

It's a shame you're not over here. I see those 16" temporary spares in the junkyard all the time in the trunk of those old RWD Maximas.

Daisey (my wife) and I met Scott and Vicky at last years MSA show where by the way their 77 was Best of Show. They probably don't remember us since you see so many people in such a setting. He's her husband and if I remember correctly he's a big guy!:classic:

That's pretty drastic and generally not necessary unless you've burned something up.

Yes, but you are comparing a modern V6 to a modern I6 (or I5) rather than comparing a modern V6 to a 20 or 35 year old I6 and I really hope I'm not helping to start another fight!

Tomohawk, I don't know if it would be that simple. Remember, when you push up the diapraghm in the EGR, the engine dies. If you plug the opening in the manifold wouldn't that be basically the same thing?

Based on what st0878 said, that would have been my guess. But seriously, When I experienced a similar problem, it turned out to be the coil. A bad AFM could cause the richness he speaks of however.

First of all, welcome inmate! I like the interesting screen names that some of the members have and it makes me wish I has usesd something other that my name. If you are planning on doing all of those things to the car then it really doesn't matter if it's a 240, 260, or 280. There were 260 and 280 2+2's and you could probably find one for less than the cost of a 240 but please, no 4 cylinder engines!

They both posted pics in 'Member Mugshots' long ago. Alan T. is seated in a Skyline and Lachlan is holding a fish that he either just caught or is getting ready to use for bait!

Remember, there are no headers for a turbo Z as the turbo mounts on the exhaust manifold.

3" would probably work on a turbo but I'd stay with 2 1/2". As far as buying the 'rest' from a junkyard or swap meet remember the car is a first generation and the L28ET is from a 280ZX. Won't fit.