sblake01

It can't draw much. One thing I remember about my 78 is that even if I went two months without driving it, it always started right up. I can't go two weeks with my GTO.... The voltmeter on my daily driver Ranger only registers when the key is on

Sarah, if that's true either something is wrong with or your gauge or the circuit has somehow been altered. My 78 as well as every other 76-78 280Z I've ever seen reads the actual voltage at all times even when the ignition is off. My 79 810 did so as well. The voltmeter is (or should be) directly linked to the batery through a fuse and fusible link

That is pretty much what the thread you revived from two years ago says. And I'm sure you mean 1977 not 1978 if you're talking about a ZZZap.

That or the line directly beneath his screen name:)

Check your connections. Especially the two large plugs under the front of the console/radio on the passenger side.

Here's the page that xenon based their chart on: http://www.zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/index.html

Neither a mesh style wheel nor BBS RS is a wire wheel.

Again, see post #6........ Mods: You may want to lock this thread.....

If I remember right, your dome light is also on that same fuse.

2nd one down on the right IIRC.

Now that I look back at post #48, I see that Sarah actually said pretty much the same thing I'm saying. So allow me to apologize since all I've really done is muddy things up.:stupid: Carry on!

No pins on the connector for them in either the harness or on the side of the AFM itself. Same as my 79 810. If the AFM in your 78 has them (the pins), it's from a 77 or earlier.

See post #6........

Welcome. This is a great place to learn. I disagree with one thing however. I drove to work with coffee and 5 speed for many years:)

Seems to be a lot of that going on of late......:stupid:

John, you've been around here almost as long as I have. I sincerly hope your post doesn't mean your're leaving. That would be a shame since it would appear to be based on a response from a relative newbie who seems to lack the sensitivity/patience to coexist here. Ignore him. Oh, and props for the "Hitchhikers Guide' reference:)

There are no fuel pump contacts in a 78 (or later) AFM.

Glad you found the problem. In Bruce's defense for the "nyuck nyuck" comment, perhaps you're unaware that he sells carbureators (Z Therapy). It was meant in humor.

I wanted a Ferrari I'd buy a......wait, no I wouldn't, I couldn't afford one!

Not true. The dropping resistors bring the voltage at the injector down to roughly 9 volts from what I have observed. Top of page EF-15 mentions this though it doesn't state the actual voltage.

Yes, it was a 5 speed.

I never had any of those problems and both my 78 280Z and my 79 810 got better gas mileage than mentioned above. The 810 got 21-24 while the Z got 23-26. Neither of them failed emissions testing during my ownership and ran proprely throughout the RPM range. cozye mentioned wear and I'm wondering if that doesn't have something to do with it. My cars were both somewhat low mileage plus the fact that the EFI parts that replaced were new, never used parts that I purchased from Norm at OEM Surplus back when he still had those parts. So much of what I've read here has to do with trying to adjust or somehow compensate for things that wouldn't be happening if everything was working the way it was designed. And I do see some 'running in circles' as mentioned above and even some overthinking as I mentioned in another thread. I didn't have adjustable pressure regulators, insulated fuel rails, etc. My cars worked fine without those things as they were designed to. I know that's not an asnwer, it's just an observation.

If it's description is accurate, at that price, you could buy it, turn around and sell it and make money without doing much of anything to it.

Mine didn't have it.

What's not to understand?