sblake01

You can use the clutch from a ZX, it's the ZX fan itself you don't want to use. The 72-73 fans are smaller diameter than the 74 up. And I believe that they have 7 blades. The 74-78 fans have the mounting surface at the front of the fan and I believe they have 8 blades. You could use any 72-78 fan. You can't use the 79-83 280ZX or the 810/910 (Maxima) fans because they have the mounting surface towards the rear of the fan which makes the fan sit farther forward. There's more space between the engine and the radiator in the ZX/810/910.

Is that Bob Coleman's Z in your first post?

Bottom line is that he really doesn't need it as he's changed out the distributor which is a conclusion he's already come to. I was just trying to lead him to a description of what it is.

It's not by Howlin' Wolf........

Errr..

The clutch is the same from whenever they went to plastic fans. Just don't use the ZX fan since it's designed to go with the 3 row pulley and ends up dangerously close to the radiator if used in the earlier cars.

A thermotime switch is a item used on the later EFI cars. That's a water temperature switch. Here's an excerpt from a post about it:

That set up is 'Mickey Mouse'. I said that in 2007 and I still contend that today. The one circuit that is jumped together won't blow when it should and depending on what it's for the car may burn the car to the ground.

My 2005 GTO and my wife's 2006 Chevy HHR will both freeze you out. They're both R134a systems. My 1990 Ranger will also freeze you out and it's a R12 system so I guess that really depends on the vehicle. Problems can occur in R134a conversions when they're not completely cleaned out during the process and some reamaining mineral oil left from the R12 charge mixes with the PAG oil used with the R134a. As Andrew said in post #5, it will gel (I hope that's not what you were describing in post #8). Even if I was just going to flush out, vacuum and recharge the your system with R12, I would, at very least, replace the receiver/drier also.

I've never been a proponent of putting R134a in a system that was designed for R12. The R134a molecule is smaller than the R12 molecule coupled with the fact that R134a requires higher pressure to adequately cool which would tend to make the system more susceptible to leaks than a system purpose built for R134a. For that reason I've always used either R12 or a R12 substitute like Johnsen's Freeze 12 when charging an R12 system. I know R12 costs a fortune these days but I lucked into a jug of it at a yard sale last year that had about 23 lbs. left in the cylinder and the lady sold it to me for $25! Systems become problematic for different reasons so I would only be guessing at the repair cost without actually doing an inspection.

Get the system inspected by an accredited shop. They can identify the type of refrigerant. If it has 'oily brown crap' in it chances are it needs other work. Having R134a type connections doesn't necessarily indicate that the system has R134a in it. I install those type fittings on any of the older systems I work on just because they are easier to use. Like Andrew, I'm also a licensed HVAC/MVAC tech. If your system was legally retrofitted, the should be a refrigerant tag somewhere under the hood.

That's an aftermarket, non rebuildable unit that many of the chain auto parts stores sell. I personally don't care for them but if you got 10 years service out of it, go for another one.

Oh, you're the musician! How did you end up moving from Hollywood to Apple Valley? Maybe they can merge the two accounts?

Molly Hatchet-Flirtin with Disaster

Jon, you're dippin' your bucket into dry well.........

I guess you could actually have vapor lock type symptoms on an EFI car if you had a low fuel pressure problem but as long as the pressure up in the acceptable range you'd never have to worry about it.

There were a few songs called Ramblin' Man. Hank Williams, Lemon Jelly but the Allman's version would be the most known.

Tomo, he's a spambot from the Philippines. Note the syntax of the post and the cheezy link......

You can't install the timing chain if the front cover is in place and you didn't wedge the chain before you removed the sprocket.

I'll address the ZX cooling fan first. They weren't added to prevent vapor lock. They are an emission control device. Look it up. By definition, fuel injected cars can't vapor lock. The fuel pressure would prevent that from happenng.

Stevie Ray Vaughan!! Now you're talking! I'm sure you mean 'Ramble On' by Led Zeppelin though.....

The site was experiencing some problems that day. Here's a thread that talks a little abot it. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39416

I don't know of a way to test them before installing. That procedure sounds reasonable. I've never tried it, however.

Due to the age of the expansion valves in question, I clean them with a flush. I would never dissassemble them because you won't find any instructions on how to set/adjust them when you reassemble them. I've looked and I've never been able to find any instructions to do such a setting on these old systems. My conclustion it that they were pretty much 'set at the factory' so to speak.

The initial post in this thread was lost so we may never know! Yesterday, 8/10/2010, some issues developed causing some strange things to happen. Mike is working on it. Here's a thread about it:http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=39416