sblake01

That may be the logic behind it....it's been years since I studied automotive theory but I'd fix it just because it's wrong. Timing is an important part of emissions testing.

Yeah, I know how that is. I still have my great grandfather's hammer but I've replaced the handle twice and the head once.

Based on that description, your distributor drive is off at least one tooth. That may be your main problem since it prevents you from being able to accurately adjust the timing.

You mean 1967 or newer, right?

In California, 1976 and newer vehicles are required to have smog check inspections for registration renewals, change of ownership transactions and initial registration.

I really doubt that you can convert a fuel injected car to carbs in a state that has emissions testing.

There is a hex on them just above the threads. I forget the size but an open end wrench will remove it. No sealant.

If you had the skills to do that and make it work, you'd probably have the skills to merge the two systems like he's trying to do.

You'll get a variety of answers. It's a matter of personal preference IMO. I had my 78 280Z from 1997 to 2009 and my 79 810 from 2003 to 2009. Niether of them ever failed an emissions test during my ownership. I'm fairly familiar with both EFI and carbs. I wouldn't convert one to another. Besides, I don't know about Arizona, but if you converted an EFI car to carbs, in California it would fail the visual inspection and hence, the test.

That's your problem right there! You own a 75. That's the wierd one of the 4 years of 280Z. What I recall about them is that they still had the ignition interlock system left over from the 260Z. They don't have an ignition relay. They have an interlock relay. If you had a 76-78 I could help but I wouldn't even begin to pretend that I know how to connect the ZXT electronics to that system. But it has been done. Good luck.

Ironically, the country of origin for both spambots is India. Impressive or not, they are both spambots. proximity4 was even clever enough to get Ron to answer him/it.

And about 300 bucks cheaper than my compressor and fuel injection cannister cleaner......

These cars aren't sophisticated enough to go into a computer controlled 'limp mode' or reduced performance mode. Either they run right or they don't based on condition/adjustment of the components. EDIT: I would think that if an injector or CSV were leaking you'd have mixture problems in all ranges, not just at idle.

Here's a link to a 1978 FSM.

You don't have to take it apart to adjust it. Do you have a factory service manual? The procedure is in the Engine Fuel section.

Have you checked the adjustment of your throttle position switch?

You could use this until you get a hard copy of the 1972 factory service manual.

How 'tight' is your engine? In other words, how long since the last rebuild? If the answer to that is unknown, as in this case, I'd stick with dino oil.

Sounds like you have a plan. Synthetic oil is probably a bit 'over the top' for a 40 year old vehicle IMO. You'll find many pros and cons on the subject.

The process described in this post is how I do it. However, if you don't have a cannister cleaner and an air compressor, purchasing the equipment would be more expensive than purchasing new injectors. There's other useful info in that thread which can be accessed by clicking on the link in the upper right hand corner. It's pretty much on point with the exception of a couple of 'Ohio' sidetracks. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=256648&postcount=16

Yep, that's a 'Radio Woodstock' sticker.

It is. oldhemi's link in post #4 leads to Carlos's (srbigbutt's) ad.

This is about the third different way you've asked this question in what, about a month? If someone has done this hopefully they'll chime in here but in the meantime can't you just compare the two wiring diagrams? Wouldn't that give you your answer? Sometimes you have to do your own research.....

The one you link to is $265. Probably the same one that MSA sells