sblake01

No inline fuse in a 78. As IdahoKiddd suggested, check the fuse. Left side of the fusebox, third fuse up from the bottom, 20A. which is labled AIR CON/AIRE ACON whether or not you car has AC.

11042-P7925 according to the Nissan Fast program which supercedes to A1042-P792F according to nissanparts.cc

Good news, bad news. The bad news is that it sounds like you didn't wedge the chain prior to removing the camshaft sprocket. The good news is that one generally only does that once. See this old post for an explaination of the wedge. Click on the link in the upper right hand corner of the post to see the entire thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=170619&postcount=8

In the words of Jamie and Adam, "Well, there's your problem!"

Free280Z, it might have been better to start your own thread. The question 'ask me anything' was by someone who was bored 5 years ago and hasn't even visited the site in over 2 1/2 years so I doubt the he'll answer you.......

Oh no....that would be against the rules.....

Hot wire from the battery through a thermostatic switch......

That would either be 'the-z-connexion' or 'reddat'. I don't mind calling them out.

Relax, note that I said IF. And you'd be able to tell if the rubber was bad easily enough before you put any tool on it. Besides, I don't need to rent the proper tool as I already have one as I imagine Doug does also......

He's been on my 'do not buy from' list for years. Anyone with a feedback % under 99.3 I just won't buy anything from. Not for the Datsun hobby or anythingelse. If you want to see the details of an eBay sellers negative and neutral feedback just plug their name in at: http://www.toolhaus.org/. Here's the results for the guy you posted: http://toolhaus.org/cgi-bin/negs?User=nosms&Dirn=Received+by&ref=home

He has a mechanic working on it but it doesn't matter what tool you use to remove it if it's already damaged and the bolt itself can be used to install the new one.

It could just be the rubber. I've seen that happen before. Somewhere there's another thread about this.

B.T.D.T. Glad you were able to get it out.

That's pretty nice actually and the price is about half of what I ended up getting for my 78 last year.

It would take more than that. Like some sheet metal work. Personally, if I had a 280Z (I once did), I'd leave the taillights alone.

Hey Bob, I also have that manual and at 774.3 kb, it can be uploaded. 260Z Carb Adjustment Manual.PDF

With regards to Andy's original question, this transmission calculator might be of some help: http://webspace.webring.com/people/cz/z_design_studio/

I think there is something different with you too.

I've never used pipe tape nor sealant on them.

Kudos to Vince!!

I would doubt it since the tank size/shape changed in 77.

You do realize that you're on what is predominantly a 240-260-280Z site, right? Yeah, there are a few members that have 280ZXs but there really isn't what you'd refer to as a lot of discussion here about them. Just trying to explain the lack of responses. Here's a link to a 1983 280ZX factory service manual and perhaps you can find what you're looking for in there: http://www.xenonz31.com/s130/files/1983%20280zx%20FSM.zip

I know the Porsche Cayenne uses a collapsible spare. They're roughly $500 at the Porsche dealer for the 17" and a little more for the 18" according to my cousin who drives one.

I get this one which I ignore since I've been to the site before:

I'm not sure I get what you're saying. I completely removed one system from a car and replaced it with another sytem provided by the customer. I assurme it was the so called 'MSA' system. The other one I replaced the Yorx compressor with a Sanden SD505, replaced the condenser with on from a 280ZX, and mounted a condenser fan on it. In one case I pulled everything out and replaced, in the other, I replaced the above mentioned parts, and some hoses. In either case, I couldn't give away the left over parts.