sblake01

If that was the case I wouln't have mentioned bringing back the thread. Whatever, a person's meaning is easily misunderstood in print. Way too much time has been spent on this topic however I did go back and fix it to clear up my meaning and I promise I won't post in this thread anymore.

Chill and re read my post. What did I say that would lead you to that kind of response? My comment about 'shoving it' has to do with the original poster, not you. To you I said "You can like it. That's your call"

Why would you even bring this back? No one ever said anything to the contrary. You can like it. That's your call. MY MAIN POINT TO THE ORIGINAL POSTER WAS just don't come on a site where that sort of thing isn't commonplace and try to shove it down our throats.

I'm 6-2 and 210 and I didn't like the way I fit in either of the Nissans. My GTO is a 2005. 2004s have a 5.7 liter 350 hp engine (LS1) while the 2005-2006 have a 6.0 liter 400 hp engine (LS2). Mine is a 6 speed manual. I done a couple of mods to mine giving it roughly 430 hp at the rear wheels as opposed to the advertised 400 hp at the crank. I've run a 12.435 in the 1/4 on street tires. It's just more of a beast than the 350/370Z. Muscle car rather than a sports car. cajunz, selling my truck and my 810 was fairly easy but I'll miss my 78 280Z for a long time.

I had a 3.889 rear end from a 1600 roadster, a 5 speed from a S10 200SX, and a J16 with a single Weber side draft in mine. It would cruise easily on the highway. I sold mine for $3500 which is about twice what I had in it.

Check your fusible links. The front one closest to the box. Should be a black 80 amp link. If it's bad, you won't get a charge signal.

So, let's see, that's an average of under 900 miles per year over the last 46 years. I'd have to call on that claim. As near as we can figure based on some records and discussions with three previous owners, my 64 L320 had over 600k miles and it could be over 700k.

My buddy let me drive this February last year (2009): Four months later I bought this: And I've driven both the 350Z and the 370Z. I'm not impressed with either, however.

Who, me?

That's pretty much how I ended up with the GTO....

Where would you get the pistons to make that combo work? There is a 5.3 mm difference in stroke as well as a 3 mm bore difference between the two engines. Jon is right...you need more research.

You did notice the name of the site? A stage by stage ZX modification isn't really inkeeping with the general gist of this site. You might try Hybridz.

Couldn't see the pictures but I copied and pasted their url's and now they show.

IIRC, he's from Colorado, right?

I'm not worried, my cars pass smog. The ones I had in the past and the ones I have now. I live in California that's just another one of the 'fun' parts of living here. I've seen the smog checks though I've never been through one. There was one a few months back set up in front of the park less than a block from me. Like they say, it is what it is.

Er, I believe that is the screen name....Darrel.

As I said earlier: Been there, done that. Hence my two quotes from above. Just insert whatever chain auto parts store name where I said 'Autozone'. They're all pretty much the same.

That number is for the right side.

Not trying to be obtuse but at 36+psi, I'm not sure it would just dribble. What I wonder is, let's say the injector is good, what effect does an essentially 'dead' cylinder, which is what it would become if unplugged, have on emissions readings?

The electrical test will tell you whether or not the injector is opening (and closing) by the 'click'. There still could be crud in it causing it to not close comeletely and it would leak. Best way is to pull it and pressure test it which requires a couple of tools that most people don't have. I have the tools but unless you plan to do a lot of work with injectors (which I have over the years) it would be cheaper to have them cleaned rather than buy the test/cleaning equipment.

I don't agree with that. If they're leaking, they're leaking. Even uplugged they're still under pressure. The plug just gives it a signal.

I answered that in post #5.

A 1978 280Z alternator is internally regulated. If you ran the test as outlined above, your 'new' alternator is no good. It does happen.

Welcome! You've come to the right place. I'm better with 280Zs but you'll find lots of help here. Got to love the Gerry Rafferty (Stealers Wheel) lyric in your signature!