sblake01

Tell us more about the engine. Are you saying it's a stroker? L28D crankshaft, etc.?

Go to http://www.zhome.com/ and scroll to the 'Z Onwership: Index page. Under that there's a 'Buying A Z Car-tips:' section which will answer most of your questions about what to watch for.

I guess that would work out to about 9 Km/L. My 280Z actually averaged a bit better than that at 24 mpg or a little over 10 Km/L. I'm sure you're already aware of the rust issues.

mayitin, where did you get "V8" from? Anyway, the following is very elementary research that you could have easily done yourself. According to the factory service manual, a stock 240Z fuel pump puts out 3.41 to 4.27 psi. According to a file on the Holley website, a 390 requires 5-7.5 psi. You'll need a fuel pump with more output than the stock one.

If the dealer can't get them, try here: http://www.datsunroadster.com/PIC_PAGES/NEW_PARTS_PIC_PAGES/214-04.htm

You won't.

You can't be serious with that bad photoshop job, can you!!? Lots of international interloping going on here!

I have a cannister that is basically used for cleaning the injectors while on the car. It connects to an air compressor and can be set a particular pressure. With injector cleaner or gasoline in and set at about 36 psi, I connect it to an injector which I place in a jar that I have set up for it, open the valve on the cannister, plug in the tester (in post #2), and press the button. You'll see the fuel spray with each press if everything is right. This test will also show leaks if there are any.

You're listening for an audible 'click' when you press and release the switch. That lets you know that the electronic part(s) are working. I hook them up to a pressurized cannister to clean them or to test the spray pattern. But that's actually a seperate procedure which shouldn't be needed on on that has been 'rebuilt'.

This is what I use. 9 volt batery, momentary switch, an injector connector and some wire:

Doubtful but if he did you couldn't pick a worse venue in which to sell a Japanese car......

I tried for years to find the 70 240z I bought back in the day (1970) and sold less than two years later (back to the dealership I bought it from) but I've concluded that it's just not around anymore.

Yeah, I've seen those. Looks like the merger had already taken place at that point. I've not seen a Prince embem with the Lion (Lyon) without 'Nissan' on it also. I've seen Nissan by itself with the lion logo, Datsun by itself with the lion logo but never Prince by itself with the lion logo.

I think he got it......free speech or no if you're going to take your ball and go home that pretty much renders the thread useless. If this is how you go about earning trust as discussed in your other thread, perhaps it would be wise to just erase everything else you've posted on this site also.

Actually, I think that it was Carl who said it had to do with Prince. Basically, all I did was relent. I've never seen anything else that associates the lion (or lyon?) with Prince.

If the merger was in 1966, the Fairlady roadster would also predate it. So, WingZrO, if you're watching, your 'Prince' shift knob has been busted!

As did the original 320 pickup key:

I think you're talking about the 'prancing lion' logo rather than the Prince logo. I had a similar knob in my 810. Sometimes it's mistakedly (IMO) referred to as a 'Griffin'. Not sure if it has anything at all to do with the Prince Motor Company.

What's that nowdays? About $800 U.S. right?

He's Joe, I'm Steve...

I have to disagree with your assesment there, Jan. Fuel mixture can be rich because of not getting enougn air in the mixture but also because of getting too much fuel in the mixture. Adjusting the AFM will do nothing about the latter condition but overcompensate. Personally, I wouldn't touch the air flow meter adjustment until I looked a few other things. I do have Gunson Gastester which is an exhaust analizer but I've been around these cars a long time and I've rarely foutd the AFM to be at fault. Keep the AFM clean but don't mess with the adjustment until you checked a few other things such as leaking injector(s), leaking cold start valve, bad thermotime switch (allowing the cold start valve to introduce extra fuel into the system), a malfunctioning or incorrect water temperatre sensor, improperly adjusted or malfunctioning throttle position switch, a bad catalytic converter, improper fuel pressure, the list goes on and on. Screwing with the AFM adjustment is bad advice and could just make things worse if it isn't the actual problem.

You might try HybridZ but I think you'll get similar responses there also since, like I said earlier, you just don't get it. I'm also a member there. Their responses might even be harsher because they do hybrid stuff but they don't do 'rice' or 'bozo' stuff like 'hellaflush'. You can't seem to see the difference. I'm done.:stupid:

You just don't get it, do you? Attempting to justify your point of view won't really help. Believe me, we do understand your point of view. It's just that you're on the wrong site for the interests that you're expressing. Period. End of story........

I think that the whole purpose of this thread is missed by most that read it and it probably needs to be locked down or at least removed from the front page so that it can be forgotten........