sblake01

Why not? I think 158K miles and almost 29 years could do that.

I have a 2 1/4 ton floor jack. It's not aluminum, it doesn't wobble when you use it, it hasn't ever leaked and I've had it for at least 10 years. It's a big, heavy, ugly orange thing that sits in the corner but never fails to perform when I need it. Don't get too caught up in the 'lightweight aluminum racing' part of the jack's description. Lightweight and 'one pump to the frame' really aren't important for home use, are they? The jack you have, the OTC jack and most others are not racing jacks. A real racing jack, which you don't need for home use, would cost considerably more. I'd rather just have on that works.

You have a shop so that point of view makes sense. Buying stuff from those places is somewhat of a crapshoot. In the one case I mentioned earlier, I had no choice. I generally don't buy parts from the chain stores but I came out from work, the starter was bad and there was an Autozone in the same complex I worked in. I would have changed it out for an OEM starter had a problem developed but it didn't fail in the subsequent seven years I owned the car.

Not sure why you're asking since this thread is about a 240Z heater box and the later advice concerns a Honda to 240Z fan conversion. Since you have a 280Z, that's a slightly different kettle of fish. Here's a write up on putting a 92 Civic fan in a 76 280Z but this is an upgrade of questionable necessity IMO since the 280Z fan is already basically an upgrade over a 240Z fan, performance wise. Problem there is that a 280Z fan won't fit a 240Z housing. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=154386&postcount=1

Yeah, you're right but I always consider it a treat to look a Z pictures.

I stand corrected! You DO know reddat! The other idea you mentioned earlier would also work. There has to be some kind of inline check valve in existence that would work. Then you could just replace the old check valve with a hose barb, which I'm sure you could find a hardware store, and put the inline valve just beyond the fuel filter. I actually think that that would be an upgrade since the valve would still serve it's purpose plus it would be protected by the fuel filter.

In the case of this check valve you don't have to go through that. The Volvo part will work. Finding one, apparently, is the problem. I've even verified this with Elvan, formerly of Z Car Specialty in Upland, Ca. You likely don't know who he is but I would take his word on this, or anything Z or Datsun related.FastWoman, whenever you get some spare time, search 'reddat' on this or other Datsun sites. Interesting story.

It does come in handy. From the Xenon site:

From what I recall, you can remove the check valve without removing the fuel pump from the car.

TomoHawk, we've moved past the bypass idea. The Volvo check valve would be a direct replacement and thus there would be no need to bypass the original. Plus the Volvo valve costs considerably less, as little as $9.95 on a couple of the websites I looked at.

This is about EFI, E. Need a little more pressure than that..........

Do you know who John Facenda was? (Rest his soul) If you don't know who he was, he was the narrator for NFL films. I can just hear him saying the second sentence in your previous post.

Now, if anyone could just find a less expensive, reliable alternative the the OEM fuel pump......

Everywhere is walking distance if you have the time....also from Steven Wright.

I've never found one.

Well, like I said, I never got that far in doing the research. It appears to be barbed while the Nissan one if smooth but that shouldn't cause any problem.

You missed you calling; you should have been a writer for Wikipedia.

I do know that part number is 17014-N4225. According to Lisa at NissanParts.cc they're NLA through Nissan (you likely knew that already) but I recall that from checking on them about a year ago. I know of no aftermarket sources. Since these are actually Japaneese copies of an actual Bosch fuel pump I wonder if the Bosch check valve would work. I never got into checking that out and I've since sold both cars that would use them. Oem-surplus doesn't have any and Rod's Datsun parts would likely fall into that 'commanding a very high price' scenario you spoke of. If you'd be interested in a proper functioning used one complete with the copper washer, pm me. As far as question #2, I don't see why either scenario wouldn't work but after the filter, to me, is one of those 'why didn't they do it that way in the first place' things.

I always associated Minilites with British cars and Wats with Japanese cars. I recall the Mini Cooper in the 60s with those tiny 8 spoke Minilites. Weren't those 10" diameter rims? I know they were small.

As far as I know the fuel pump operates on 12 volts. Looking at the wiring diagram I don't see anything along the path of the power wire that would change that. Why do you ask? Have you altered the wiring to the fuel pump? Is the fuel pump you're using, by any chance, an Airtex/Master part number E8312 that many of the auto parts stores sells? If so that may actually be your problem. Here is one of the threads where that pump was discussed. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32135&highlight=Airtex

I don't have that problem with FAST either. I run XP Pro. I believe my copy came from the Xenon site.

It's way more likely that, as bigoak suggested, you have clogs in your fuel system caused from sitting so long. Check the fuel pressure.

An interesting tie in to that rather long winded response is that the attack on Pearl Harbor was referred to as Operation Z, by the Japanese Imperial General Headquarters. Regardless, that post was

If it was angled enough for the excess oil to reach that area of the trans, it would leak.

You didn't say what year your car is but, generally speaking, that light indicates more than just that the parking brake is on. It can also indicate hydraulic problems in the brake system and, on some years, low fluid level.