sblake01

The six digit numbers he listed will be on the side of the dist. above the Nissan part number, i.e. D6K8-02xxxx, D6K8-03xxxx, etc.

If you could come up next weekend that would be fine. I've got plans this weekend also, ironically also a family party. The pressure are kind of a 'feel' thing. I try to set the low side in the 33-38 psi range but I also watch the center vent temp while I'm charging it.

There's likely still R12 (or whatever refrigerant) in your system since you say the compressor clutch locks in. I would recover the old refrigerant and pull a vacuum on the system. From there I'd add the oil first the as much Freeze 12 as needed but I'd use my charging manifold. I don't like charging a system without knowing the actual pressures. I have the equipment to do all of that, however. The average person doesn't. I actually would leave the dryer though you may get differing opinions on that. Too bad you're about 85 miles away. If you brought the stuff up here, I could set you up as I have all of the necessary tools. BTW, it takes all of my restraint to not ask about that last picture:)

And your opinion is better than anyone elses? The reason I'll pass at debating this with you is that you don't give enough info in your initial posts to really show where you're coming from and then when someone questions it, you go on the offensive. You got me in the other thread but no more. There's a thin line between enjoying a good debate and baiting people into a argument. Hence my comments in post #11. Also, just an opinion.

Trust me when I tell you this (I'm a licensed HVAC/MVAC tech): You'll destroy your designed for R12 system by running R134a in it. It's not just the dryer or the oil. There are other components in an R12 based system that are not designed to run at the pressures that R134a requires.

Plus you'll still have to deal with that wiring even with a V8 swap. That's what's at the root of your problems, not the engine. Why do you think it would go away with an engine swap? And how did you arrive at that 'cost effective' conclusion?

Slow down a bit before you start changing out components and refrigerants. First you'd need to determine what type of refrigerant is presently in the system. Second you'd have to figure out why the volume is low. You have enough refrigerant to run the comperssor but not enough to cool. You really should take it to an AC shop and have them connect gauges to it and read the pressures. Unless you have the skills and equipment to work on it a shop would be the best alternative. You can't buy most refrigerants unless you have a license other than 134a. If you read the rest of this thread then you already know how I feel about putting 134a in a R12 system but it's your car.......

You know, after thinking about it, I'll pass. Mr. Jagger seems to be quite happy within his own logic. I came to that conclusion based on another exchange we had in another thread. That's fine. I wouldn't want to be the one to deprive him of that bliss:)

Alan, should I tell him or will you?

John, I think the comment referred to the individual that did the work on this particular car rather than someone who actually knows what they're doing.........

Won't work on your 75.......

We've corresponded. He's just up the hill 20 minutes or so from me.

I concur with solution B. If it was solution A, it wouldn't run right once warm but it would start.

I don't think the make really matters but I would suggest one with dual gauges. This is the one I use and the chemicals I use with it: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=256648&postcount=16

Yeah, why laugh at it? I don't like or dislike it any more that anything else that's out there. If people would view today's cars as just that and not try to compare them to 30+ year old cars maybe they'd react a little less negatively to them.

It's been established that the 'curved edge' ones are the ones that require drilling so his wouldn't be that type.

Waaaaay to vague........Sounds like your 'friend' is going to shoot starting fluid into the intake. Perhaps he "pretty much dont know anything about mechanics" either. That is likely the worst thing that you can do to an automotive engine that hasn't been run for a long period of time. That stuff is basically butane and ether propelled by C02. Easiest way I know of the spin bearings. That stuff is not even good to use in lawnmower engines.....

No matter what kind of louvers you have, there will always be evidence that they had been on the car when you remove them. I have the 'Shadow' louvers that fit on mounts that slide under the molding/weahterstrip and adhere to the glass. Possibly the least destructive mounting system that was available but you can still tell that they were there if you remove them.

A pressurized fuel canister is the best investment you can make if you intend to own and maintain EFI cars. Testing, cleaning, and troubleshooting have become much easier since I bought mine a few years ago.

A 78 with factory air would have vacuum operated controls while a 78 with dealer installed air would have mechanical controls. If the first postion on your AIR lever is 'A/C' on your control panel and you have a 4 speed fan, it's factory air. If the first position is 'OFF' and you have a three speed fan, it's dealer installed or aftermarket air (or no AC).

Did you check the adjustment of the throttle valve switch? Continuity is great but it has to be at the right points. Idle contacts closed at idle, open in any other position, full throttle contacts closed at anything above 34 degrees of opening of the throttle valve.

My price wouldn't be that high. I'd let it go for $30 including shipping. It's in good shape, with all screws, springs, latch, etc. Can post pics if you'd like. Let me know.

I think that one fits over an existing console lid.

What would a complete serviceable 78 console lid be worth to you? I have one that I'd just probably end up giving to whoever buys the car when I sell it.

You'll need fuel pressure along with current to test the csv. So you'll either need a pressurized fuel injection cleaning cannister or the car itself to properly test it.